Darren Groves Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Well I knew it was coming, I have been nursing my gearbox for a couple of years now and it's finally had enough. Was always a slightly crunchy affair, but now non existent. I have collected a few NOS spares to do this job, but whilst it's out of the car I should get the OD sorted as well. Are OD rebuilds for specialist only or should I tackle myself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 if you have the manual then its easy DIY. there is little to go wrong and you make well strip it down and find nothing alarming you will need ti make a drag to remove the punp and piston , this can be upgrades to a higher capacity pump. fitting the balls and one way clutch can tease the mind , and read the bit about the timing etched marks on the planet gears need to align . when dropping the od back on the gearbox lever the two plates on the piston side this replicates opening the clutch cone and allows all the splines inside to align easy, otherwise the book says stick long screwdriver down into the black hole and twiddle to align them ...thats a right faf and doesnt work well two good levers and whiz its on. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 Hello Darren I made one out of several for my spitfire about 4 to 5 years ago,as Pete says its not rocket science. Have a read of this link. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/ I must admit I fininshed up with a 28% J type(a bit overgeared but nice when cruising on motorways)And I have a very slight whine but that is probably due to being a mix of parts that have worn in to different parts(can only hear it when the hood is up)and it has covered about 15,000 miles now. I found it worth getting a pressure guage to set the pressure as you dont want the high pressure of the TR's and big saloons Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted June 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 On the Canley's Classics website it says to 'Never remove the adaptor plate from the gearbox' but doesn't say why: http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/the-d-type-overdrive/ Had a quick look inside the gearbox today, found the remains of the needle roller bearing floating around in the oil.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 I stripped my gearbox down because it kept getting stuck in gear, I found tiny bits of needle roller. It's amazing how well it runs without bearings! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 to remove the OD you dont need to remove the adaptor plate, if you strip the gearbox you obviously have too they say dont as it stops the lay spindle exiting and you drop a thrust or the reverse spacer etc from dropping out the big hole in the GB case. if you strip a Dtype on refitting the planets read the book there are small etched or dot mark on the planet teeth you have to align so all three with the carrier this is best running postion for the gears to take the same load or you invoke a lot of vibration Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted June 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 Thanks Pete, if that's the reason then it'll have to come off as it's the gearbox that's really poorly. OD generally works, very infrequent slip, slightly lazy change sometimes and just the hint of vibration. Finances may have to dictate revisiting the OD at a later date. Curiosity is bound to get the better of me though, so it'll probably end up stripped and reassembled at least. Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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