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electronic ignition


navyguy
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depends on the make some the trigger is in quite q different place to the original contacts so timing must be checked

you dont need a strobe

  connect small pea bulb t between the  coil negative and earth 

ignition switched on.   

 

HT king lead detached 

 

turn engine as unit triggers it will illuminate the bulb , 

 

at this exact poit look at the timing marks ( must be 1 or 4 approaching tdc  

 

compare pointer and marks on pulley for a staic of around 10  deg ( check your manual for the correct spec )

or look it up in the technical spec download at the bottom of the forum .

 

Pete

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I tried Accuspark on my GT6, and well lets say I won't be using them, again! I must admit that my dizzy wasn't in the best condition, it had a lot of side way movement in the shaft, but the accuspark unit ran well until the engine got to its normal running temperature and then miss-fired and lost power.  I tried an Aldon unit that was recommended to me but had difficulty getting one that would fit my D200. You can get on for around the £100 mark, but I think its a case of getting what you pay for.

In the end I had my dizzy rebuilt by H&H ignition Solutions who fitted their own ignition unit.  The whole refurb cost £175, and the car is as sweet as a nut

 

Link Below is for the Aldon ignitor - you just need to select the appropriate unit. the second is for H&H

 

http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/shop/prodtype.asp?CAT_ID=39&strPageHistory=category

 

http://www.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk/

 

Hope this Helps some

 

Aidan

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 some ramblings 

 

your club shop sell reliable's at fair prices, and offer a recondition service for points or electronics distributors 

 

all these units what ever make are purely a replacing mechanical switching with electronic switching its good for greater accuracy up the speed range and can complement worn dizzy cam spindle float , they are not anything more than that,  nothing magical but less maintenance

no burning contact faces, no gap setting. no mechanical inefficiencies. 

 

some use the cheap options from eb-y and have mixed results

personally ive used aldon and lumention from the club shop and they have been robust and bullet proof for years.

 

one thing  was reported the low end spec units dont always have the trigger magnets spaced correctly and each cyl ends up with different timing 

cant confirm where this emanated from, 

 

 

pete

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most electronic units operate in a range from 6 to 18volts  from experience thye dont like a ballasted feed as when the battery state is poor you can have this drop below the operational window and thay cause lots of misfiring , its always best to 

 

keep the ballast and 1.5 ohm coil but add a 12v ign feed to the unit 

 

or

 

dump the ballast, and its 1.5ohm coil and  you can remove the white /yellow starter solenoid feed then fit a new 3 ohm 12v  coil by making a new feed from the whites on the ign switch or suitably bypassed ballast and all is then  twit  proof.

 

 

im sure many rotor failures were due to by passing ballasted  1.5 ohm coils which will double the current used and also raise the HT to a voltage in excess of what these systems will cope with ,

 

 

 

 

Pete

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I too am a fan of the pertronox units, aldon just put their own sticker on them

Cheapest from retrorockets, or at least used to be.

 

As to timing, I do it by ear. If th ecar wont fire when the ignition is changed over, get an assistant to crank the car while you twiddle the dizzy. Once started, adjust so idles at about 800rpm or so. Then take for a drive. If the car pinks, retard the ignition until it stops (under load) if no pinking, advance until it does, then back off enough to stop the pinking. Pretty quick to do, and probably the very best timing setting you will get (as fuel etc is not what it was when the cars were new, let alone dizzy condition/advance curve)

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  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...

I'm sure that quite a few of the failures of the hall effect type units are due to using them with a ballasted ignition system. I agree with Pete Lewis when he says to convert to a 12V coil. 

 

I had two of these units fail on me, one Ignitor and one Accuspark, and I used an ignition switched 12V supply for the unit itself with the ballasted feed for the coil still intact, so that wasn't the issue. I think the problem is the amount of current that these things are being asked to pass when cranking the engine for starting. With a ballasted system, you're getting the full 12V across the coil when starting. As the coil resistance is 1.5 ohms, from Ohm's law, that's 12/1.5 = 8A, so that's twice the normal running current of 4A, which is what you'd get when the voltage is dropped by the ballast resistor (or wire) when the ignition key is in the 'run' position.

 

I think that even though the units are only switching 8A for a short period of time, this is what fries them. After converting to a 12V coil, I fitted another Accuspark unit which has now been in the car for two years with no problems. So I would say convert to a 12V coil every time!

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 i fitted an accuspark electronic kit to my1969 13/60 and apart from having to pack out the cam to make the trigger a tight fit i have had no problems--instant starting and good road performance..

for the timing i found tdc by feeling for the little indentation on the crankshaft pulley then set the advance and  retard  to the centre mark then advanced it 50 clicks which should give a 10 deg btdc setting and have since advanced it another 10 clicks and it runs well without pinking or running on.

cheers 

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My car has a ballast WIRE and I bought an Aldon from the club shop expecting to fit a separate 12 volt feed. However, the instructions showed me how to test my coil and clarify if a separate feed was required. It wasn't. It runs fine.

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ive come across misfires and non starts when the lecy unit has dropped below its operating voltage and a poor/cold battery state dives the ballast below the 6-18volt operational range of most units 

 

     and a few fried ones which after converting to 12v have since been fine  

               so its a down to preference and takes your choice if its been ok  thats fine 

                just some ramblings   ..its raining    Pete

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I had a look on the Aldon home site and they sell dozens of different models, far more than I expected. Possibly some are the same thing in different boxes   :lol:  but they claim some are specifically for ballasted systems. I think this is what I've got. However, I won't be testing it in sub zero conditions, take it out in the winter? :o You're having a giraffe!


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yes think they have extended the range from what was available a few years ago, 

 

 

           http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/shop/prodtype.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=118&numRecordPosition=1

 

 

                    now have to report you to the  G R O W U P

 

                'giraffe rescue organisation  of wound  up pensioners'    

 

                                           no dont look it up    get ................................     a coat

 

 

Pete    

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