daverclasper Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 Hi Trying to replace nearside top shock bushes to get rid of a rattle. I understand there's a top and lower one. I understand this can be done with car at rest position with out raising etc. Have removed the 2 nuts and cap and top bush. I can't see how to remove the lower one as it seems underneath the the large top spring cap. Which is under the turret and held by 3 studs and nuts. Any advice would be great please. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 Not sure you can do this without a spring compressor. I would put back the cap top bush and nuts, this holds the spring compressed in the top cap. Then undo the three nuts on the spring top cap, jack up the car so the top cap studs drop out the upper turret. You may also need to disconnect the lower shock bush to allow enough room to get the studs out. You can then remove the whole spring and shocker assembly and this is where you need the spring compressor. Once tightened down you can re-remove the top nuts, cap and bush and get access to the lower top rubber. Can't think of any other way, or neat trick to do it. http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-vitesse-front-suspension 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 Absolutely correct, it needs the spring compressing. The only way it could be done without is if short springs have been previously fitted (they go slack when the car is jacked up) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 nooooo! keep car on ground , no jacking , you can push the shocker shaft down into the shocker its not under any load just need thin fingers to get into the spring to pull it back up just push the shaft down enough to release the rubber ,fit new and fiddle it back up throgh the turret , fit the top rubber a washer spin the nuts on till theu bottom on the shaft shoulder , may have nut and lock nut or a nyloc easy job takes 5 minutes Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 Really? My grandson might have fingers thin enough but my bananas won't fit! I suppose you could use screwdrivers, if you're adept with the old chopsticks. But how you gonna get the old rubber out and the new one in? You can show me Saturday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 To make this easier to retrieve the shaft a bit of tube with a 5/16unf thread in it you can screw it onto the dropped shaft and pull it up thro the turret hole yes Doug I can show you my pinkies on saturday with scar's and optional slippers when we do our wallingford run to escape bedfordshire and meet you , at least its only yearly (didnt like anual) !!! we dont want people talking it is a bit off a fiddle , never grip the shaft with pliers you can mark the shaft and make a leak forecast for saturday looks good lets hope we get a good selection of triumphs to enhance ths Thames Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Hmm, recently had a spring in compressors that jumped out. That worried me (fresh clothing required) the compressors (had them 30 years!) went in the bin and some new ones purchased. Not sure I would be sticking any part of me in between compressed spring coils with only the top and bottom pans holding it is situ. Probably be OK, but as I get older I worry more....and things hurt more. And take longer to heal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Just to add if the top one is off and the rubber is still sitting central in the turret I would leave it all alone and look elswhere , if the bush has deformed and the shaft is rubbing the turret then its in need of replacinge and as usual the new rubbers are often poor spec and dont last like the olduns did . the shoulder on the rubber to locate the shaft in the turret is not very big, clives right there is load on the spring with the car weight on it it will stay well seated even if jacked a little , the shocker shaft only has load if the spring pitches the shaft and you need to realign it with the turret hole if you have a compressor and want to remove the assy to swap bushes thats fine Its down to preference or needs must we all have different ideas or methods the type of compressor like club shop is very good I have two for area use, there, s no escaping with these pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 I bought a pair of compressors, the sort that hang on either side of the spring, they popped off twice before they were binned. Took a chunk out the garage wall! (Modern houses, plasterboard rubbish!) Then hired one like they sell in the club shop, MUCH better. One of the bolts on one top cap had come un-welded and was a bugger to get undone. Others would have welded the bolt back but I replaced BOTH top caps. Which brings me back to the thread, Dave, why are you replacing one rubber? I would do the lot, on both sides, and contemplate poly bushes. And Pete, I'm with Clive, I'm NOT sticking my fingers in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Have always used a compressor like the club sells, made one years ago, also stainless steel top caps are available. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Doug always......as mum said if you cant be good be Careful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Stainless steel top caps! Why did nobody tell me? More shiny things. ummmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Paul / All I have been looking into purchasing the club ones as I need to buy some for this winters task of replacing all the bushes in my front suspension. BUT how the ??? do they work? they seem to have a solid plate at each end (admittedly with a hole in) but how do they fit around the shocker? Or am I being dim? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Here's a picture of a similar one to the club offering. Sit the coil/shocker assembly in the compressor, top of shocker through hole. tighten up the compressor nuts, undo the shocker top nut. then slacken off the compressor nuts until the spring is uncompressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Thanks Doug - but how do you fit the bottom part around the lower wishbone? Surely you would have to release and remove it before fitting the lower wishbone otherwise the bottom plate would be stuck around the bottom of the shocker (Sorry still being dumb and missing something really obvious!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 to use a top bottom compressor you have to remove the shocker and spring assy ie remove bottom bolt and top 3 in the turret plate then compress the top and bottom plates down this free's the shocker top bush, unwind the thing and shocker and spring top plate and all separate Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Hi Last night I packed some bits of rubber between the shock shaft and turret hole as shaft was moving about and contacting the turret plate hole on one side. I was dead chuffed, as thought this must be making the noise and the rubber would show a difference. All excited, this morning I set off up the street to work and, and same bloody noise. It started very quietly about 3 years and has got progressively worse. Does it at slower speeds over poor surface (not big pot holes etc), as if what's making it, is not under load. My suspension bushes are looking the worse for wear and have a Poly Bush kit to fit when I have time. I thought a suspension bush metal tube in contact with wishbone would not make noise in the above situation, and would be a heavier knock over holes etc, rather than a chunky rattle. Any thoughts please. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 chunky rattle on poor surfaces .............. other ideas are anti roll ball links passenger side steering rack bush chatter,, there is a small plastic anti rattle plug fits in the rack tube under the rubber mounting if its missing you get rough road rattle. and under the rack gaitor the passenger end is not well greased, doesnt help. sound like your top bushes will need replacing ,but as normal when you find something wrong it never cures the problem Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Hi It was a rear arm radius bush causing the noise. Sounded to me like noise came from front/middle. Anyway, has been bugging me for 3 years, so dead chuffed. Cheers, Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 Glad its sorted when chasing noises its always best to rent a crowd and let them listen while you drive , noises do often come from the opposite end to what you think I'll re phrase that !!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herald948 Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 Glad its sorted when chasing noises its always best to rent a crowd and let them listen while you drive , noises do often come from the opposite end to what you think I'll re phrase that !!!! Pete I might have said this before (if not here, on some other forum), but I agree with Pete. A number of years ago, I was convinced that there was something very amiss in the rear end of my '62 Herald 1200...until I discovered the failing left FRONT wheel bearing (and race and, ultimately, hub)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 noises do often come from the opposite end to what you think Usually with politicians. However: re spring compressors - this is one area where cheaper versions can be dangerous so avoid the market stall shiny chrome versions and get a good reputable brand. NEVER COMPRESS WITH ROPES!! Seen it done and wondered how long the owner was going to survive... If you get the club compressors which are superb for the job but take an age to compress all the way down, use plenty of grease on the threads before you start. Dry threads are harder to turn when compressing and often become damaged or stripped if not kept well lubricated; look after the equipment and it will last for years. Mine's been working well for around 20 years now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted June 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2023 (edited) Hi. Sorry for any excitement caused. Just replying as a way to reread this topic, as don't know how to save it. Oh well Edited June 23, 2023 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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