jimmyrjm Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 the moving plate link is there to assist the top plate actually earthing to the base and case, often the top plate sits on plastic buttons to slide, some have sring clips or a rolled rim to hold the two together, al a bit unreliable when stuff starts to get moving ,so for years there has been a short flexible lead to link the plates , you can make one out of any wire but it has to be a bit heat proof and flexible its a simple lead with an eyelet each end , fix one to a base plate screw and the other to the aldon hold down or any spare hole to take a screw be it threaded or a tapper. always make sure this screw does not go through to far or it will jam the top plate from rotating with the vacuum capsle . note on you base plate the word OIL is stamped in , this just needs a good squirt of engine oil thro' a hole to lube the top bush in the base its not engine lubricated and these wear badly and you get a lot of cam spindle sideways slop and cant control the points gap A lecy unit is less affected and solves some wear problems here. anyway fit the wire it may actually start !!!! Pete Ah okay mine has a plastic base?? But no wire and will look into making one, when you say Aldon what exactly do you mean? I've added a pick of the plate on my distributor if its any use. I had the distributor off today along with the resistor and coil, and took it to my grandfathers to test it all. Coil is good and produces a spark, the ballast resistor converts the 12v from the coil to a 6v with a lesser spark - for when the car is running. But there was no success with the pertronix electronic ignition and also hooked up a different distributor with a condenser and hooked that up to my coil and it all worked and produced a spark. So there must be something wrong with the pertronix unit so gonna scrap it and wait for the condenser kit and put it back to standard! Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 You have a 12v 3 ohm coil so the ballast wiring must be bypassed or removed Nothing clever about electronic units , aldon make the flamethrower petronix or what ever name on the box, even the ebay cheap versions are in the end a electronic triggered switch which is more efficient if you pass the magnetic ring across the pick up it switches the coil the same as the points did so you can set the timing using a pea bulb and when it triggers it lights same as with mechanical points Did you add the earth lead , ??? Wont work without it most lecy prefer a 12v supply so most do bypass or resoucre a full 12v to supply it whilst they have a range of 6 to 18v you can on a balasted with a poor battery have less than 6v and you chase misfires for ever , being all 12v is twit proof. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Hi Alton and Pertronix are two sales names for the same product They do go wrong but are in the in the quality side of the many in the market Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 that should say Aldon! Spell check grrr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Aidan, click the edit tab and correct it ....then you dont need to admit pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 I've often wondered, while correcting my spelling in edit, is my post still viewable by everyone else? Does it suddenly change before their eyes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyrjm Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 You have a 12v 3 ohm coil so the ballast wiring must be bypassed or removed Nothing clever about electronic units , aldon make the flamethrower petronix or what ever name on the box, even the ebay cheap versions are in the end a electronic triggered switch which is more efficient if you pass the magnetic ring across the pick up it switches the coil the same as the points did so you can set the timing using a pea bulb and when it triggers it lights same as with mechanical points Did you add the earth lead , ??? Wont work without it most lecy prefer a 12v supply so most do bypass or resoucre a full 12v to supply it whilst they have a range of 6 to 18v you can on a balasted with a poor battery have less than 6v and you chase misfires for ever , being all 12v is twit proof. pete Okay so my set up will not work with the ballast resistor connected? As the ballast resistor is useful for long drives as it takes the strain out of the coil right? Or would my set up be just as good for long distances - such as road trips abroad etc... I tested the electronic ignition unit testerday by running the magnetic ring past it and it gave nothing. I haven't added the earth wire yet but whereabouts do I connect it? Negative on the coil? As I am not planning to use the electronic ignition and returning to a standard points system. Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Aidan, click the edit tab and correct it ....then you dont need to admit pete Hi Pete - I don't get the option on my mobile! or at least I can't see it! Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyrjm Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Hi Pete - I don't get the option on my mobile! or at least I can't see it! Aidan Hi Aidan, I can edit my post on my iPhone i just have to scroll down to the bottom of the screen and it should say full version maybe click on that? If its there. I have added a pic, you should have something that looks like this (the edit is faint). Hope that helps, Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Jim, your system will be fine. You have a non ballasted coil and you must remove the ballast resistor or it won't work. Neither the electronic ignition or the points ignition will work unless you connect the earth. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 at risk of repeating the earth link for points or electronic purely has to join ( inside the dizzy) the top moving plate which the points screw onto with the plate below it. not out side , all inside any available screw will suffice, just keep wire clear of the moving parts. having a ballast has nowt to do with saving any coil working loads , a 1.5 ohm 6v coil requires twice the current as a a 12v 3 ohm !! its just a cold starting aid , so if your battery is a bit down you poke 12v from the starter sol. into the 6v coil, to boost HT on a cold day with a crap battery Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 I dont see the edit tab on a tablet , on laptop its in faint grey till you click it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyrjm Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Jim, your system will be fine. You have a non ballasted coil and you must remove the ballast resistor or it won't work. Neither the electronic ignition or the points ignition will work unless you connect the earth. Ok Doug thanks for clearing that up, I will not bother with the ballast resistor. And I will sort the earthing wire out.. The parts have arrived now for the distributor so will sort it out tomorrow hopefully and might have her running! (Famous last words) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 if you fit the points the screw for the condenser is the place to fix the earth to. and some aftermarket condensers are a tad to big, make sure when the screw is secure that the can is not fouling the cam or you get a hole and a cough cough stop. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyrjm Posted August 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 if you fit the points the screw for the condenser is the place to fix the earth to. and some aftermarket condensers are a tad to big, make sure when the screw is secure that the can is not fouling the cam or you get a hole and a cough cough stop. Pete Quick update.. Got the new points system in with condenser and as you said Pete the condenser was a tad big and had to create a new bracket to fit it so it wasn't hitting the cam. But all good now and have a working distributor which produces a good spark just need to fit that earth wire now and fit the distributor and sort out timings. Regards, Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyrjm Posted August 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 She runs!!! After a lot of tinkering, head scratching and a grandad we got her running. set timing and runs on all cylinders. Chuffed thanks for everyone who responded. Regards, James. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 condensers that dont fit is just another aftermarket rubbished parts supply, seen a good few of these ....with holes !!! thank heavens its sorted so whats the next job Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyrjm Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 condensers that dont fit is just another aftermarket rubbished parts supply, seen a good few of these ....with holes !!! thank heavens its sorted so whats the next job Pete Yeah was annoyed when it arrived but managed to get the condenser fitting well. Yes I thought I might have to take the engine apart for a second as a compression test showed bad compression, but managed to get her started in he end and is sounding good and on all cylinders. Next job is carb adjustment as they keep sticking resulting in a constant rev... But at the moment fitting the seats and carpets after I have wax oiled the body. Cheers, Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Air box off, Are they sticking and the air piston doesnt drop with a clunk if you lift one ? Do you know what stromberg carbs they are , do they have a choke taht blocks and lifts the piston or has front one got a starting valve and tube to rear carb Do they have a little plastic covered temp. Compensator on the side ?? Mixture adjuster under the float or blanked off with a plain cap. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyrjm Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Air box off, Are they sticking and the air piston doesnt drop with a clunk if you lift one ? Do you know what stromberg carbs they are , do they have a choke taht blocks and lifts the piston or has front one got a starting valve and tube to rear carb Do they have a little plastic covered temp. Compensator on the side ?? Mixture adjuster under the float or blanked off with a plain cap. pete Yep got them apart and they are sticking but the butterfly's aren't working evening my at the moment. I have attached a photo of them they are SU carbs. Cheers, Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Ah ha , you realise I have a avid hate of any SU , too many bits of bent tin always check the choke allows jet fully back after use, set fast idle cam tappet bolt with a small gap make sure the slides are clean and oiled lightly Holding the piston down Raise the jet to be up touching the base of the piston, undo the big jet fixing nut half turn and give it a lith tap, this centralises the jet in its holder back off the adjust nut around 3 turns , as a starting point when hot adjust both the same amounts till the revs remain stable when lifting pin raises the piston 2mm undo throttle rod clamps back off idle screws turn them in to just touch then 1.5 turns to set the idle reclamp rods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyrjm Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 Ah ha , you realise I have a avid hate of any SU , too many bits of bent tin always check the choke allows jet fully back after use, set fast idle cam tappet bolt with a small gap make sure the slides are clean and oiled lightly Holding the piston down Raise the jet to be up touching the base of the piston, undo the big jet fixing nut half turn and give it a lith tap, this centralises the jet in its holder back off the adjust nut around 3 turns , as a starting point when hot adjust both the same amounts till the revs remain stable when lifting pin raises the piston 2mm undo throttle rod clamps back off idle screws turn them in to just touch then 1.5 turns to set the idle reclamp rods Did all that you suggested above Pete, car runs lovely now with a great sounding tick over, it's lovely to hear her run after about 2 years drove her for the first time last night! Just going to do the timing now.. Regards, Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 you dont need any fancy gadgets to set the basics up....just like triumph did before emissions started to improve controlled settings. all the carbs would have arrived with a basic mechanical setting, and little twiddling in the finishing shop ..out the door and away. std. manufacturing process of the 60 and early 70s Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 Hi Jim van you advise what the fitting issue was with the condenser? was it too long to fit in the original position? I'm planning to purchase one as a spare to my electronic ignition as has been suggested by many but want to avoid fitting issues if at all possible Thx Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 Aidan , this is to make up a recovery set of points kit for the boot yes ?? the problem is the body is too big in diameter and the clamp is not offset enough so when you screw it down the canister fouls on the centre cam which if not noticed soon makes a hole through it. the solution is ..use an old one....or reform the screw clamp to move the canister outwards/upwards away from the cam you could lever it away or attack with pliers, anyway on the side of the road in the pouring rain anything goes....apart from the engine Ha ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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