Wheel studs

[Mike T]

Hi

As an new owner of a GT6 I keep finding things I am not sure about. I took the wheels off today and was surprised that the wheel nuts came off after just a few turns. The wheels studs only project about 20mm from the hub, the car has minilite type wheels which probably use at least half of the stud so there is very little for the nut.

 

Is this normal - the studs look new. I think I would feel more comfortable with longer studs.

 

Any recommendations for minilite type wheels?

 

Mike

[AndyTV8]

No experience of this myself, but I agree that it sounds wrong!

....... Andy

[John Bonnett]

Having just fitted a set of Minitlites I know from experience that the standard wheel studs are too short. As far as I remember you need the nut to go on 1.5 x the diameter of the stud which equates to at least 7 or 8 turns. So if less than that which i suspect is the case, please do not use your car until you have fitted studs of the correct length. Now is a good time to go over to Freelander M12 studs which are far more robust. John Brown Wheels will supply you with the correct nuts to suit.

 

Darren Groves wrote this up in a fairly recent thread.

 

John

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Mike

                I changed to Freelander M12 studs when I fitted minilite type wheels no worries ever then? not sure 3/8" are good enough for wider wheels and sticky tyres?

 

Roger

[Darren Groves]

 

Darren Groves wrote this up in a fairly recent thread.

 

 

 

Here you go: http://triumphherald1360.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/wheel-stud-upgrade.html

[Mike T]

Thanks all for the advice and Darren for the link. I was only get 4 turns on the current wheel nuts which didn't feel right. The freelander solution looks fairly straightforward.

 

Mike

[Pete Lewis]

this is the one of the best upgrades you can do   you need M12 with 60deg cone  or if using TR or 2000   unified   7/16" x60deg.

 

you may need on some studs to grind a very small chamfer on a small section of the stud head to clear the machined register

on the back of the front hubs,or the stud will pitch on the shoulder .

 

depending on the finished stud length some will fiddled in with the shoes removed  some just wont. its worth a look first before you 

fight the hub flange off or hole saw the back plate  

 

always re check the torque around 60lbs ft on these studs after a short run  

 

Pete

[Mike T]

Hi

 

An update on the studs issue. Decided to go with the Freelander M12 option. The job turned out to more extensive than first planned. At the front I had to separate the discs from the hub to get the studs in and as the discs were in a pretty poor state I decided to replace them and fit Mintex pads to try and improve the braking performance. I also discovered one of the wheel bearings was very noisy so replaced them as well. The stud replacement was pretty straightforward at the front. At the rear  a previous owner had fitted longer studs already but as the car runs 185 section tyres he had used washers on the studs to act as spacers. Several of the studs were bent and I am pretty sure they would have failed before too many miles. I ended up going the split the hub route rather than drill the back plate. Not sure that was the best option but still the studs were replaced eventually. I now feel a lot happier driving the car and consider myself lucky that I picked up the problem soon after buying the car.

 

As Pete mentioned above it is important to re torque the nuts after a short run, I found that this was needed.

 

Thanks again for the guidance

Mike