EFI Herald

[Darren Groves]

Hi Roger,

 

It was a RVC type. They charge £80 +VAT & P&P.

 

Darren

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Darren

                    Oh B****r that is what mine is and has been perfect on Megajolt for 5 years!

 

Is it a different signal or was yours just fussy?

 

I may still go with Marco's kit as it was easy to fit and accurate plus just a touch cheaper(not that that matters compared to what I have spent already?)

 

I went with LD lambda sensor controller with the meter £108 delivered(I thought this may be useful in the early programing/messing/panicing/despair?

 

Still as my old Mother used to say there are no pockets in shrouds and the kids have had loads already!

 

Roger

[Darren Groves]

Hi Roger,

 

I believe MJ is a 12v output, whereas the MS is 5v, so therein lies the problem. You may get lucky or the Tacho Driver from the coil pack may work, lots of people have success with this, it's just that I didn't. One downside to Speedy Cables is that it's a 4-5 week turnaround, so not so speedy....

 

Will be interested to see how you get on with your 02 sensor.

 

Cheers

Darren

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Darren

                    Now I am confused(not difficult)

 

In the Microsquirt manual page 32  section 3.6.5 Tacho output it says the output typically provides a 0-12v pulsed signal?

 

Now I thought that is what Megajolt supplies not 5v as you seem to think?

 

Roger

[Darren Groves]

Hi Roger,

 

Well, the 5v for MS I got from Nick Jones's schematic for his tacho fix:

 

 

And the 12v for MJ I got from the Autosportslab Installation Guide which reads:

 

Using the Tach Out on the MJLJ

Many tachometers can accept the signal emitted from the Tach Out on the MJLJ module. This Tach Out signal provides a 12V pulse for every ignition event. You may use this to provide the signal to compatible tachometers, or to provide a signal to a separate Engine Control Unit, data logger, or other device which requires this signal.

 

I would just wait and see what you get, many people don't have problems even, you may me lucky. 

 

Cheers

Darren

[Darren Groves]

At last week's Club Night I got the first bits back for the inlet manifold from fellow member Alan Brace, who is kindly helping out.

 

This bit is the flange that attaches to the throttle body and a slightly reduced tube diameter from the main plenum. I forgot to take a photo before I welded it, which is a shame as it was very nicely made and I was worried my welding wouldn't do it justice. Didn't come out too bad.

 

 

The Rev counter came back from Speedy Cables, it works but at exactly half speed. Simple fix apparently but does mean it has to go back. On the plus side the recalibrated speedo was spot on, matched the Sat Nav exactly.

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Darren

                    The tachometer sounds like the one I fitted to the Brother in Laws TR6 that had to be set up with dip switches any thing from 2 cylinders to 12 cylinders and adjusted at 1000 rpm mark and also at max revs mark having set the dip switches to max rpm as marked on dial face(sounds complicated but its not when you have unit in front of you)

 

Not done much on my EFI for a while.

 

Just been out and bought a milling machine today(boys and toys?)

 

Now I have to think of something to make?

 

Roger

[Darren Groves]

Hi Roger,

 

The Rev counter will with them today, should have it back by the middle of next week. All to do with the number of pulses per rotation, so they can adjust easily apparently.

 

Got a little more done yesterday, located the fuel filter & pump on the rear outrigger and run a new 8mm fuel line down to the front of the car.

 

Apologies for the poor quality photos, my phone was struggling in the light.

 

 

 

[Moe]

Interesting to see the different approaches people take when converting to efi. I have been running Megasquirt injection on my Spifire 1500 since 2011, lots of confused faces when people look under the bonnet, with a lot thinking it Weber carbs on first look. Running Megasquirt II on a V3 board, using Weber throttle bodies, Ford EDIS ignition, a Techedge Wideband Lambda and a swirl pot in the boot. Been very reliable apart from the low pressure facet fuel pump filling the swirl pot failing. Things still to do when my dodgy back gets a bit better, change over to the Extra firmware to get a tacho signal out and finally get rev counter going.

Pic of the install hopefully attached!

Moe

 

[Darren Groves]

Nice job Moe, looks the business.

 

I got the rev counter back from Speedy Cables yesterday, all works fine now but still needed a pull up resistor between the signal and 12v supply.

 

Just waiting on the fabrication of the manifold flanges before I can get cracking with the next stage.

[rogerguzzi]

Hello All

             I have started the conversion!

 

I have removed the Megajolt and the Edis4 and just left the coil pack,crank sensor and water temp sensor

 

I have decided to mount the Microsquirt and MAP on a board on the left hand foot well were the radio speaker was!

 

The idea is to keep most of the connections in the dry?

 

Plus I can make up individual cables and terminate them on the board(well that's the theory)

 

This is the board made up just want to do some testing on it before I start grovelling in the car!

 

I will get it running on ignition first so that when I have fitted the EFI I will at least know the ignition works?

 

Roger

[Darren Groves]

Blimey Roger, that's a serious bank of connectors!

 

I opted for the extra length loom to minimise the amount of joins needed, where I needed to I soldered and covered in heatshrink.

 

Hope the ignition part goes smoothly.

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Darren

                    I did not have the option of longer loom as I bought it cheapish off Ebay.

 

I have wired up the TPS that I fitted to the throttle body and calibrated it on the bench.

 

I think I will do the water and air temperature sensors the same way?

 

I am trying to rationalise some of the under bonnet wiring(well tidy it up a bit)

 

I was thinking about the injector wiring and whether to run 2 cables to each one and terminate them on the board or or make joints under the bonnet(8 cables would be a bit bulky?) but then they only have to be thin cables 5amp max if that?

 

It is certainly getting the old brain going!

 

Roger

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Darren

                    I think the injectors draw no more than 1amp which means the 0.5mm cable will be adequate so the thinking is individual cables to each injector and terminated on the board(in the dry)

 

Roger

[Darren Groves]

Keep up the good work Roger.

 

I'm trying to be patient with finishing off the wiring, so am waiting until the inlet manifold is made so I can get the wiring the exact lengths for everything under the bonnet. The extra length looms are available separately and I was glad I spent the extra on it. Still loads of chopping, splicing and soldering needed but at least the majority is a straight run from loom connector to component, less chance of gremlins.

 

Darren

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Darren

                    I measured the current used by the injectors today and it was 0.9amps so the 0.5mm cable would be good enough but I opted to use the 1mm that came with the Microsquirt(plenty of 0.5mm in the kit must have been the delux kit) because I thought it has a bit more mechanical strenght(plenty of that to)

 

I am making up all the plugs on long leads then when? I have it all fitted I can make it into some sort of loom and cut to lenght at the terminal board.

 

I have sent for some of this to make the loom in 4mm,6mm and 8mm x 5m about £10 the lot! so hoping it will make it look neatish?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150899408011?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=450115825397&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Roger

[Darren Groves]

Took a ride over to local TSSC member who's been making the flanges for my inlet manifold, came back with these.

 

 

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Darren

                     They look nice(shame to spoil them with your welding? Joke)

 

I have done some work on Spitty;s Efi today and with a bit of luck I may get her running on ignition part tomorrow!

 

I seen to have more fuses now than the national grid (note to self make a note of what they are?)

 

Still what;s the worse that can happen? fry the ECU or even worse set fire to the car and burn the garage down?(that would be sad before I have used the new milling machine!)

 

Roger

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Darren

                    I have fitted the Microsquirt but it is giving me some grief!

 

As I said I decided not to use Edis4 and use a coil driver instead this were my problem is as I am not getting a spark(it may be the software settings?)which to me is like wading through treacle!

 

So after checking the wiring lots of times(I was thinking I had got a duff Microsquirt) I decided to do a temporary lash up using Edis4 and she fired up straight away!

 

looking at the software readout I could see the advance changing but to make sure I connected the timing light and then disconnected the Microsquirt and it started and ran in the limp mode(10 deg advance)

 

So back to the drawing board?(it must be a software problem?) unless I have a faulty coil driver? but it is new and a good make?

 

Frustrated Roger

[Darren Groves]

Hi Roger,

 

This is the exact reason I chose to stick with the EDIS, for me it's a known quantity and it works well. One less new piece on a very large jigsaw I didn't have to worry about.

 

I have done no reading on how to a coil driver to work, but presumably you've been into ignition settings in TunerStudio and changed from EDIS to something that matches your coil driver?

 

 

If I were you I'd post the question on the Sideways forum, someone on there will have gone your route I'm sure.

 

Darren 

[Darren Groves]

So after picking up the inlet manifold flanges earlier the week, it meant I could crack on and start putting it together.

 

I won't add too many words, I'll let the photos tell the story.

 

This is the flanges clamped into position in the head with the runners & plenum tacked into place. 

 

Now with everything fully welded and the blanking ends of the plenum added.

 

A smaller diameter tube is added to take the flange for the Throttle Body. The 2 take offs are for the MAP Sensor and Fuel Presure Regulator.

 

The holes for the injector bungs are done, they are just sitting roughly in position in this photo waiting to be welded in.

 

So all that is left to do is decide how to add the connection for the Idle Air Control Valve, give it a good clean to get the debris out of the inside and then paint it.

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Darren

                         Numpty number one here.

 

I thought I had checked and double(many more) checked all the wiring 

 

But I thought back to basics and rechecked the VR sensor inputs(you are ahead of me now?) I had the cam VR sensor connector in the crank VR sensor postion on the board!!!!!!

 

So I have been trying to get it to fire on a signal that expects half speed and only 4 pulses(or something like that)

 

So taken it all out and corrected the wiring just in the process of refitting 

 

The reason for not using the Edis4 unit was A its old and B less connections plus I have read it is easier to diagnose a fault without it(Edis4 works or not)

 

If It works now??? I will stick with the Ford type coil pack and ignition module(I would have to change the leads as well)

 

    Success (sort of? you know when one door opens two more slam in your face)

 

Well after corrected my wiring C**** up Spitty started up ok so I was feeling pleased with myself until I turned it off and it would not stop!

 

Now I have read about this being cause by a back feed from the alternator via the ignition light(not a problem with the Megajolt system)

 

So with the Triumph wiring diagram to sort the problem out! Ha Ha I thought how about using the radio feed cable? (No radio) so found the connector and ran a wire from it to power the relays(feeling smug at this stage)

 

Switched it all on and TunerStudio went on line but it would not start! strange I thought but after a bit of testing find that the power to the radio is cut while cranking the engine(B****r I thought)

 

So its back to a diode in the alternator exciter cable.(now done with care you can fit a diode in the plug so it is under the cap) I used a 1N5406 a bit over the top but mechanically stronger.

 

Still its progress! the ignition map needs a bit of work(I have not got a clue how it knows were TDC is I just set on toothed wheel and skip 3 teeth and falling edge)

 

I have done a bit more playing today and altered the ignition map calibrated the battery voltage and connected up the CLT sensor(that needs a bit more calibrating) but at least it works.

 

Now when I first fitted the Megajolt system I was about 1 to 2 degs out with the sensor position but that did not matter as you can tell the software the difference,

 

Now when I check the timing with a light it appears to be out by that amount but I can not see how to tell the software that? 

 

The software shows 12 degs and the pulley shows 10.5 degs(I must check the pulley first)I am sure I did that when fitting Megajolt but lost in the mists of time(and wine!)

 

So I think I am ready for the next step and remove the carb's and fit all the injection stuff(now that should really tax the old grey matter)

 

Roger

 

[Darren Groves]

Hi Roger,

 

I've been following your progress on the Sideways Forum, sometimes you just need to share the problem and it all starts to make sense anyway, so well done for finding the issue.

 

Take a look here: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/base-timing/ this tells you how to use the trigger wizard to make sure the software and actual timing readings match.  Also if you are using a timing light with an advance function, make sure it's set to zero, the wasted spark set-up can confuse them a little.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Darren

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Darren

                    Thank's for that link I had looked at all these settings  but could understand them(The help files in TunerStudio do not seem very helpful?) I will have a go at that tomorrow after checking the pulley and pointer for accuracy.

 

I going to have a go at getting readings for the CLT and Mat sensors with hot and cold water and meter tonight so I can input these before I disable the car.

 

Them I am into completely unknown territory? (Still its a long winter!)

 

I have been thinking how to open the throttles(the Jenvey stuff looks expensive) I may investigate the old way Webers did it with an overhead shaft or the Spitfire way on twin carb's.

 

Roger

[Darren Groves]

Another very productive day on the inlet manifold, first up was to incorporate the IAC Valve into the plenum. The valve needs a filtered atmospheric air supply, which feeds into the plenum after the throttle body. I decided to use mini filter direct onto the valve (Thanks Nick for the idea), it's supported with a bracket available from most plumbing shops, they have a M10 female thread so I just had to weld on a suitable bolt.  A short section of 22mm tube gets the air into the plenum. You can also see a cable guide on top of the plenum, just so it has a relatively straight run to the throttle body. I should be able to adapt my existing cable.

 

 

I also had to figure out a way of securing the fuel rail, otherwise it will just fly off when the fuel gets up to pressure. I thought I'd had a good idea in using a section of steel bar between the 2 middle injectors with M10 nuts welded on. The Fuel rail could then be drilled and tapped the same and 2 short lengths of threaded bar would have provided the restraints.

 

Now look closely at the photo, can you spot my deliberate mistake?

 

The bar is actually too close to the flanges and fouls the manifold studs in the head......bugger! So that will be off next week and an alternative devised.

 

 

Here's a couple more photos: