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12mm wheel studs a warning

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Hello Paul

                How about some longer nuts that have a small amount of thread removed from inside stud end?

As Pete says they far superior to the 3/8" ones(the ones I fitted are marked 10.9 so are high tensile) and if they hold Range Rover wheels on with 5 and they are huge and 

weighs tons I think we will never break any on our cars!




or alloy wheels?

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Standard studs are adequate for standard i.e. steel wheels; it's only when you go for thicker wheels that you really need the thicker or longer studs. As 68vitese has found, fitting longer studs with standard wheels causes its' own problems as the nuts won't tighten sufficiently, and you're now into the realms of packing and shimming which again can cause even more problems and worry. Standard studs with good threads on both haven't let me down yet.

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Hi Paul,  I converted my GT6 studs to 12mm last weekend, I have fitted some Dunlop D1's from JBW and they come with a tapered nut sleeve with an open thread and an internal hex head fitting.




Now the internal thread was a little short for the original steel wheels (by about 3 -5mm), obviously perfect on the Alloys, but Im pretty sure they can get them in various lengths.


If anyone knows the torque wrench settings for alloys on 12mm studs would be greatly appreciated.


GT6 August 2016




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I have ford 12mm studs on the front of my car, and mgf with the mgf hub, on the rear. I use std steels with no issues.

Paul, sounds like they are a pattern part, land rover suppliers often offer 3 or more different makes for many parts.

Maybe ask the supplier to check stock, and see if another brand is correctly made.

I know it shouldn't be necessary, but sadly we live in a world of variable quality parts.

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I based the figure on the 7/16unf  on the Triumph spec for   big saloons as ,  'similar' spec     


if you search  on line 12mm wheel nuts   most clues  comes around the 55-60 lbft  zone

you could go higher on modern spigot nuts , but we are still on 60deg cones 


there is also consideration needed if you have cones or spigot nuts  and the type of wheel in use all have a bearing on 'how tight'


if 42 lbft  is good enough to hold the wheel forces on the 3/8" studs then you can all make a preference for  how tight when you upgrade,  if you have a nice long tommy bar   ok.  use 80 but dont let the taper cone deform the  naive nut seating by over tightening and spreading the seat.

just some thoughts 



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Hello All

            My eyes water if tighten my nuts that tight?


I have been using 50/55 Lbs/Ft on my Spitfire alloy for about 4+ years the man at tyre place wanted to tighten them to 90/100Lbs/Ft !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

and he was quite worried when I said 50/50 Lbs/Ft was ok



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Ian , im sure theres a better technical result in making a spec to suit our ongoing fettling of the base triumph specification


we just dont have the design and experimental depts around us to qualify the brainwaves


I do have a torque to yield torque wrench, but the special batteries are well dead and it would be ideal on this sort of analysis , but its well defunct,


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I have always used event-tyres and they nip with a gun and hand torque after 


but some are hopeless  ,  


you can if you pay a fortune get modern air guns to be torque adjustable, we made leaps and bounds on torque control on truck assy 

with large supply pipes and short air hoses,  , its no use having the pressure if there is no volume to go with it,

back in the 80s we and altas copco did a lot of trials , one idea of the day was a rack of sockets which when you pulled a socket off to use on a multi use gun it would change the regulator to give the right torque for the selected socket,  

some guns would squirt a dab of blue  paint on the nut if the correct torque was achieved ,

i guess things have moved on a long way especially with electric powered  portable guns .

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