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** 26/02/23 Heading Up ** Probably how not to restore a Herald!


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Yes back to the old school ring and ball  the ring will expand more than the ball  so heating the hub not  the  shaft should break  the  tapers molecular grip  as the metal expands linear around its circumference  must grow more  than the shaft diameter.

Im sure this saga is not played out yet

Pete

 

 

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Yes back to the old school ring and ball  the ring will expand more than the ball  so heating the hub not  the  shaft should break  the  tapers molecular grip  as the metal expands linear around its circumference  must grow more  than the shaft diameter.

Im sure this saga is not played out yet

Pete

 

 

I did that and the keyway broke when it did come apart!

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I don’t have access to a torch, only a heat gun, which while it turned the grease in the hub to liquid, and melted the rubber hub seal, generating copious amounts of acrid smoke in the process, couldn’t generate enough heat to really make the hub expand on the taper.

Matt, I measured the driver’s side driveshaft and it looks to be 310 mm between the knuckle and the rear of the bearing housing, so if the other one is scrap, I may take you up on that offer.

Today was spent cleaning up various drive and heater components ahead of applying a coat of gloss black tomorrow, so should post some pics tomorrow.

Karl

 

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34 minutes ago, Bordfunker said:

I don’t have access to a torch, only a heat gun, which while it turned the grease in the hub to liquid, and melted the rubber hub seal, generating copious amounts of acrid smoke in the process, couldn’t generate enough heat to really make the hub expand on the taper.

It's only the bearings you need to heat, not all the surrounding metal, and either the inner where it grips the axle or the outer where it grips the hub. You could also try the opposite effect and buy some of the liquid aerosol stuff that freezes metal; I've heard good reports of it. 

Pity these weren't the same as my TR7 bearings, which fell apart on fitting.

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Colin it’s not the bearings, it’s the hub itself which is stuck firmly on the taper.

I put as much as heat as possible into the hub itself to try and get it expand enough to break the taper, but a heat gun just isn’t man enough.

I’m fully expecting the garage to have to use a lot of heat and a bloody great press.

Karl

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For once, a weekend that hasn't been about trying to separate hubs!

It did involve hub components, but in a far more productive way, namely getting paint on some more of them.

Driver's side back plate.....

2pmKvj.jpg

...driver's side driveshaft...

FBhi6J.jpg

....passenger side upright and hand brake actuating lever.

5HUa2A.jpg

Everything had got a coat of etch primer yesterday, and was left overnight to dry, before an application of black epoxy mastic today.

As well as the suspension components, the heater box also got some paint.

Front cover and motor mounting plate....

51OuIP.jpg

......main box....

Zhyw7e.jpg

....and output control flap box.

7bGgPE.jpg

The finish on the heater box components isn't as glossy as I would like, being more of a satin finish, so not sure if I'll stick with that, or flat it all back and give it a coat of gloss cellulose, time will tell.

The seals for the driver's side hub are on order, so next week I'm hoping to get the driver's side hub, driveshaft & upright back together, and potentially the passenger side assembly back from the garage in two peices rather than one!

Karl

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Last time I was at Stoneleigh I managed to get two bags of stainless screws that matched those around the edges of the DG heater box; hopefully they'll not rust as easily as the originals. I like that look as opposed to the screws being oversprayed in black to match the assembled unit.

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Colin, I’m going to disappoint you on the screws as I have simply cleaned up the old ones in the blast cabinet and given them a blast of gloss black.

Rob, I’m thinking I’ll stick with the satin finish, as it’s a million times better than the applied with a bog brush finish it originally had.

Pete, shiny beats the crusty state it was originally in.

Karl

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56 minutes ago, Bordfunker said:

Colin, I’m going to disappoint you on the screws as I have simply cleaned up the old ones in the blast cabinet and given them a blast of gloss black.

No disappointment here, Karl, only envy that you're way ahead of me! I've seriously started my Herald as of this evening and will start a thread on the restoration asap.

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Thanks for the encouragement guys.

I did speak to the garage regarding the hub yesterday, and they have failed to shift it, but have suggested another garage who could help, so I'll be picking up the hub on Monday, and paying the other garage a visit.

So with nothing to do on the passenger side hub, I thought I might as well start the reassembly of the driver's side, starting with this lot.

0gzcgh.jpg

First job was to clean out the threads on the various components with my trusty tap and die set, starting with the bearing housing.

bFRna0.jpg

zONAB0.jpg

With that done it was time to drift in the rear seal, and yes I did check the manual and install it the correct way around.

k0VcAY.jpg

Which meant that the next step according to the WSM was installing the roller bearing, for which I set up a rig.

0Gaj2p.jpg

Set up took way longer than the actual time it took to get the bearing seated, but it did go very smoothly, allowing me to introduce the driveshaft to the equation.

cuCufr.jpg

Which then meant fitting the main bearing, which I had some concerns around, given the equimpment required to remove it, however I shouldn't have worried as it drifted cleanly back on.

yAu30N.jpg

Next up was the front seal, and again I followed the WSM directions, so it should be the right way around.

VzXUqs.jpg

On with the paper gasket, after a goodly smear of grease.....

dy257j.jpg

.....and then it was on with the back plate, and associated components.

OH7UVC.jpg

Which left me to install the hub and to the driveshaft, and torque it up, using the set up on the bench that I had been using in trying to sort out the passenger side hub.

6AsY3v.jpg

As you can see I have also started installing the brake components, however a couple of items need further clean up before thay can go on, notably the brake adjuster as that was completed clarted up with muck, so is now soaking in Gunk.

Here's the view of the rear of the back plate so far.

mp9nu7.jpg

You will have to excuse the soft focus on the last few pictures, as I managed to get grease on the lens of my camera phone!

Tomorrow I should get to finish off the brake components, as well as fitting the UJ and drive flange, at which point the driver's side driveshaft and hub assembly are complete, and can be set aside to re-installation at some later, yet to determined, date.

Karl

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Do make double sure the uj  circlips are really fully engaged and seated in  their grooves,  easy to get the tee shirt for one popping out on a test drive  even when you know they are trouble.

Check the width between the circlip  ears are all the same 

Pete

 

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Will definitely be double and triple checking the circlips, but first need to investigate a dragging on the rotation of the driveshaft in the hub.

I don’t think it’s the bearings, but the oil flinger, where it is turning with the shaft, as it is now a snug fit, and dragging on the unlubricated outer section of the rear seal.

Karl

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I gave it a squirt of WD40 as a crude test, and that improved it considerably, so happy that it’s just the flinger.

I also pumped the bearing housing full of fresh grease, once I had cleared the old congealed stuff out of my Wanner!

Didn't get a chance to do anymore, as although I’m off this week, I had to finish some work off, which was supposed to have been done last week, but as ever it didn’t pan out as intended.

Karl

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While looking at the driver's side hub and driveshaft assembly, I had a bit of an epiphany, as I noticed that the end of the threaded portion of the driveshaft was level with the securing nut, which was different to what I had on the passenger side.

So I then looked back through the photos that I had taken previously when rebuilding the rear brakes back in 2017, see the photos below.

Driver's side.

FCEMS9.jpg

Note position of driveshaft end to nut.

Passenger side.

849Ljw.jpg

Driveshaft extends beyond the nut by over 5mm.

So which one was correct?

When I rebuilt the driver's side I torqued it up to the 110lbs/pf as stated in the WSM, which pulled the hub neatly up to the backplate.

So next I measured the distance between the shoulder of the yoke and and the rear of the bearing housing, which gave me the 310mm that matches the measurement that Mathew got on his second driveshaft.

Now to the passenger side, which measures out at 305mm, which appears to be due to the bearing housing and hub being pushed a further 5mm up the driveshaft, and consequently the taper, presumably due to an airwrench being used rather than a torque wrench.

All of which rather explains why the hub will not budge, and which raises the question of where to go next.

So here is the plan of action:

  1. Cut existing hub off of the driveshaft, by cutting the hub rather than the driveshaft.
  2. Remove the driveshaft.
  3. Inspect the driveshaft.
  4. If the driveshaft is fine, which I suspect it may not be, I'll strip the hub assembly down and rebuild.
  5. If the driveshaft is toast, then Mathew I will probably take you up on your offer.
  6. I have already ordered a second hand hub from fleabay to replace the one that I am about to destroy.

It's a bit more drastic than I would have liked, but at least I now know why the bloody hub was so stubborn.

However all of that will have to wait until I'm back from Cornwall, as off to see eldest son graduate from uni.

Karl

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On the top photo I think the axle should protrude further out of the nut than pictured; I don't think it's being sufficiently gripped by the nyloc and an MOT tester once gave me an advisory on the same thing. I went out to photograph mine for comparison and found that mine are different lengths too, so I was head-scratching for a minute until I realised the nuts are different depths.

axles.jpg.9467460ceef9a8595412433131b75e56.jpg

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