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** 26/02/23 Heading Up ** Probably how not to restore a Herald!


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The central gallery in each UJ was empty of grease with just stuff that looked like earwax in the bearing cups themselves, so I’m thinking that the prop shaft UJs had been spinning around with little to no lubrication for a while now, I will definitely being replacing both UJs.

Tony I’ve got to drop number 2 son at uni up in Ormskirk next month, so if the remaining UJ isn’t out by then, I might take a detour off the M6 to come find you!

Doug, the Mole grips were only £9 for all 3, may have to get some more, as they will come in handy when welding.

Karl

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28 minutes ago, Bordfunker said:

 

Tony I’ve got to drop number 2 son at uni up in Ormskirk next month, so if the remaining UJ isn’t out by then, I might take a detour off the M6 to come find you!

.

Karl

Close to Junc 15 or 16 M6 Karl  We could do it in no time, just pm me and we can make arangements if you are struggling :) 

Tony.

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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Nice, free, fresh, oily u-joints. A joy to work on.

Who's got the video of the rusted solid, pitted and jammed ones?

Crossed my mind.... It is often the circlips that are the really tricky bit.

I would also suggest a copper or Ali faced hammer for banging the flanges, saves damage.

 

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Now I have no problems with circlips, as I seem to have the knack of getting these out easily.

Wish I’d seen that video before I started work on my driveshafts, as his technique looks much more effective than my approach.

Will give that a try at the weekend.

Thanks

Karl

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I am pleased to report that the method in the video worked perfectly on the remaining UJ on the propshaft.

What's more, it is a deeply satisfying feeling to smack the UJ flange with a lump hammer and watch the offending bearing cap come flying out!

And come out they needed to, just look at this fine example.

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Yes that is rust! Look at the spider.

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Remember this fella?

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I had to drift the remaining outer rim of the bearing cap out after extracting the spider.

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I have no idea why the cap appears to have lost it's upper surface, but given the state of it, it's probably not surprising.

All of the old UJs were promptly binned, and I set to cleaning up the propshaft and associated flanges with a flap wheel in the power drill, closely followed by a big wire brush in the anglegrinder, leaving me with this.

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And yes I have taken a note of which flange goes at which end, and which end goes to the gearbox or diff.

The flanges received similar treatement, followed by a coat of rust stopper.

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For the more observant amongst you, I know there are 3 flanges in the photo, 1 of those is the replacement for the passenger side driveshaft which I destroyed attempting to remove the UJ.

Next stop a coat of primer, followed by gloss black epoxy mastic, hopefully next week.

Karl

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I was taught to mark the flanges the way they came off Karl, just in case it put's the prop out of balance..... I did forget sometimes and it did'nt seem to matter that much. It is a great way to change them though :)  Still not looking to bad the old ones, at least the needle rollers are still there.

Tony.

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Tony, I didn’t go to the lengths of marking the orientation of each flange to the propshaft, just which end it came from.

Given that this is a mass produced vehicle from the 60s it would be interesting to know if any balancing, other than the propshaft itself, was undertaken at the factory.

The propshaft has small weights at either end, but the flanges look standard.

As for the UJs, all the remaining grease is gritty when you run your nail over it, so not sure how long the needle rollers would have remain round!

Karl

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flanges are mass produced to around a 0.005" runout tolerance ,  cant see why turning would ever have any effect unless  a flange was distorted in some way 

due to bruised faces etc..

on a prop what you must keep is the phasing of the yokes ,

the tube ends must be in line . not 90deg out or even one spline 

Pete

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2 hours ago, Bordfunker said:

Tony, I didn’t go to the lengths of marking the orientation of each flange to the propshaft, just which end it came from.

Given that this is a mass produced vehicle from the 60s it would be interesting to know if any balancing, other than the propshaft itself, was undertaken at the factory.

The propshaft has small weights at either end, but the flanges look standard.

As for the UJs, all the remaining grease is gritty when you run your nail over it, so not sure how long the needle rollers would have remain round!

Karl

It was just the way i was taught as an apprentice Karl.... The chap i was under even made me mark the diff flange as well, both he and the garage were very old school. We had to repair everything if possible including water pumps starters dyamo's even leaking rads were repaired.  That u/j if it was the greasable type would have been cleaned and put back together. Same for brake shoes we relined our own....... It's a wonder i'm not dead with all the crap that flew around that garage. At least you could get stuff to repair things with instead of buying new chinese crap. :) . Good old day's... or were they??

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Tony that sounds like a pretty thorough grounding in vehicle maintenance!

My replacement driveshaft turned up this week, courtesy of Mathew (big thanks!), which gave me this starting point.

RxU5bC.jpg

The UJ circlips had been previously doused with WD40, so 20 minutes work with circlip pliers and a small flatbladed screwdiver had them extracted, and the driveshaft in the vice having the UJ beaing cups bashed out, rapidly followed by the UJ spider itself, leaving me with this.

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It's amazing how easy it when you know how!

Next stop was a bath in Gunk, followed by a thorough scrub with various wire brushes, before I hit driveshaft and flange with a variety of wire brushes in both the drill and angle grinder.

The finished articles...

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Although I have already purchased a new drive flange to replace the one I cut up, I have decided to use the one that came with Mat's driveshaft, as they are a pair, and it looks more 'standard' than the repro part, forgive the pun.

Everything then got a coat of rust stopper, which in this weather dried off very quickly.

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Which left me no excuse not to apply a coat of etch primer!

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Including the propshaft itself and the replacement inner seal carrier.

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I'll leave that lot to harden off overnight, before given it a gentle flatting back, followed by a further coat of primer, with the aim to get a couple of coats of gloss black on Monday.

Karl

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Pete, don’t worry all of the mating surfaces have been left free of paint, merely receiving a clean up and a coat of rust inhibitor.

Tony, Mathew,  it will get driven, and it certainly won’t be concourse, as I just want it clean and tidy as that will make reassembly a lot easier and more pleasurable, as well as making ongoing maintenance easier, both in terms of actually doing it, and the amount required.

The Rustbuster’s epoxy mastic is great stuff, very tough, but also dead easy to apply, if a little messy on the operator!

Karl

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Despite the record temperatures, or maybe because of them, as Mrs B, being of Celtic descent, it not overly fond of extreme temperatures, and by that I mean anything over 15 degrees C, I have manged to actually complete everything that I planned to do this long weekend.

Yesterday was spent rubbing down the components due for paint, and applying another coat of primer where required, so nothing particularly worthy of pictures.

I did however finish off reassembling the driver's side hub and shaft by fitting the brake shoe adjuster, having finally found the two securing nuts for the back, and a pack of zip ties required to hold the adjusters in without the brake shoes.

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It needs a few touch ups here and there, but I'll do that once I've finished assembling all of the drive line components.

I also spent an hour or so tidying up the garage and hoovering it ahead of applying paint today.

First thing this morning, well not first thing, as I had to mow the lawn first, I set about setting up for painting, arranging the various conponents to be painted, to ensure that I had proper access, and wouldn't be catching the items with the airline as I moved around.

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And yes that is a railway lamp on the shelf, don't ask.

My makeshift support for the propshaft, which allowed me 360 degree access for painting.

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As per usual you end up spending way more time setting up for painting than you ever do actually painting, but finally everything was prepped, paint mixed, guns checked, and no more excuses not to start painting, which resulted in this little lot.

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Particularly pleased with the shine on those flanges, along with the driveshaft.

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I suppose I didn't really need to repaint the oil drain, or bearing retainer, but they were there, so why not.

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The propshaft came out quite nicely as well, certainly an improvement on how it looked last week, and just needs a couple of touch ups where I didn't quite get the gun to it around the UJ knuckles.

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And finally the heater box components got another coat of paint as I wasn't happy with the finish I achieved last time, but this time I think they may just do.

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Before I can reassemble the hubs I need to order bearings and seals, which I will get from the club, along with new UJs for the propshaft and driveshaft, so the next few weeks will be spent assembling all of that and slowly rebuilding each assembly, including the heater.

Karl

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