** 26/02/23 Heading Up ** Probably how not to restore a Herald!

[Bordfunker]

1 hour ago, Paul H said:

Hi Karl yes thats the one. Puts a nice finish to the  job. Looks like you had instructions how to fit which is more than i did

Paul

Before spending my weekends swearing at ageing Triumphs I was a model maker, and whenever using water slide decals, the process was always apply the decal to a gloss finish, remove all the bubbles, and then when dry apply a gloss coat to protect and blend the decal.

Good to see the 1:1 process is the same!

Karl

[68vitesse]

Ref your lack of non return valve for the washers, I use one from a shop which sells bits for aquarium's, also if you dismantle the jet be careful not to lose the small ball which acts as a non return valve for the jet it's self.

Regards

Paul

[Bordfunker]

Paul, thanks for that.

I won't be touching the jets as these are working fine, there's just no pressure in the system due to the lack of a non-return valve.

I'll take a look at my local aquatics store for a non-return valve.

Karl

 

[AidanT]

Plenty on fleabay if you need  

 

Aidan

 

[Bordfunker]

No movement on the windscreen washers this weekend as attention has focussed on the engine bay, and the boot as usual.

Now I had intended to start with the last of the welding in the boot having failed to finish this last week, but couldn't wait to try the newly painted driver's side engine bay valance, so decided to install this first instead.

The valance itself is held on to the top of the suspension tower by two bolts which sit directly above the upper wishbones, which is where I realised that I had a problem, as if the bolts are installed from above, they fowl the upper wishbones on full compression.

With the wishbones in place I couldn't get the bolts in , and to make matters worse, I had already installed the bolts on the passenger side the wrong way round!!!!

Nothing else to do but drop the springs and dampers, to allow the upper wishbones to be removed, as you can't remove the bolts retaining the upper wishbones with the spring and damper in place.

Long story short most of Saturday, and a chunk of today was spent sorting out my schoolboy error, which did at least mean I was left with both the engine bay valances back in, and the radiator fitted as well, as you can see from the pictures below.

I haven't got around to cleaning up and re-painting the radiator and the two flanking support panels, which rather let the side down, but given the fact that the engine is still filthy its in good company.

When I was installing the horn bar to the driver's side engine bay valance, I realised that I had forgotten to drill the holes for the horn bar! Schoolboy error number 2!

In order to drill the holes I dropped the front valance to improve access, no big issue as I needed to sort out the brackets on the ends of the valance.

Oh dear! Another bodger has been here before me. This is the driver's side bracket that I took off, a crappy bit of galv held on with fibreglass resin!!

The other side is no better, so I'll need to remove that bit of bodgery as well, and then make up some new brackets which I can weld on. Just when I thought I could put the welder away for a bit!

Where the bracket is supposed to be.

That's a job for another day, as the boot won't weld itself.

First up was drilling out the drain hole in the back of the spare wheel well, and the reason I invested in this.

I picked this up from Screwfix during the week, and while it wasn't cheap, I'm sure I'll get plenty of value out of it, and it certainly made short work of the drain plug hole.

I used the section of old panel to mark out the location of the drain hole, before consigning the old lacy bit of steel to the bin.

This just left the last bit of welding, a smattering of pin holes just in front of the new section that I had inserted last week.

Initially I thought I could get away with just a small patch, roughly the size of a two pence piece, however further investigation showed that I needed to go for a larger patch, and one which would need to incorporate the longitudinal reinforcing pressings.

I therefore had to make up a new section from 1mm sheet steel, which I shaped over the vice jaws with hammers and an old socket to create the recessed portion, before cutting it to shape and holding it in place with welding clamps.

This was promptly welded in place with my usual applomb....

....before being cleaned up with the angle grinder.

That's the boot welding completed, so I can now start the painting of the boot, and then finally get the fuel tank back in.

Definitely feels like progress.

Karl

 

[Bordfunker]

The MIG welder got a rest this week, as my attention shifted to the paintwork in the boot itself.

I've never done paintwork on this scale before, so its going to be a bit of a learning curve as I try to get to grips with the whole process.

Before I started painting I had a quick run around with the stripping disk and some wire brushes to remove some of the rust and paint around the bases of the rear lamp clusters as these were a little crusty.

Here is one after a quick squirt of primer from a rattle can.

You will have to try and ignore the paint runs, my own fault for not shaking the can for long enough before commencing spraying.

Main focus is the interior of the boot as I need to get the fuel tank back in, and get this car back on the road, so that got a good coat of Halfords' finest etch primer.

I've got some work to do on the front edge of the boot where I've peeled the remains of the original boot seal off. It was stuck very firmly all round the boot lip, and promptly disintegrated as I tried to remove it, leaving chunks of old rubber and glue, which I have started to scrape off with an old wood chisel.

Thankfully my welding will be hidden once the fuel tank goes in, but first it needs a coat of red oxide primer and then Dolphin Grey, which is a fairly close match to Halfords grey etch primer.

Good job my welding improved a bit when I got to the driver's side of the car, as this bit will be exposed for all to see if they take a peak in the boot.

With the topside of the boot floor painted, I had no excuse not to turn my attention to the underside, which I haven't been relishing as it's covered in old under seal which will need to come off before I can paint it, and I need to paint it before the fuel tank and valance go back on the passenger side and I lose decent access.

No pictures of the underside, just what I was left with after half an hour with a wire brush, and a wood chisel.

There was more, but most of that was in my hair and down my back!

Karl

[Bordfunker]

Sunday saw me make more progress on the boot, applying a second coat of etch primer, following a quick rub down with a fine sanding pad, leaving me with this:

Then it was onto the area under the boot again, starting from this:

Half an hour of work with an angle grinder and the stripping discs, left me with a much cleaner under boot area:

This then received a coat of Kurust, followed by etch primer, leaving me with this:

Much better, and just leaves me with a small portion to clean up on the underside of the boot on the passenger side.

Yes I know I still have to do the underside of spare wheel well to do, but at least that isn't covered in under seal and rust.

While under there I took a look at the diff...

....I think I might have an oil leak!

Amazingly I managed to get an hour in the garage tonight, which left me with no excuses not to get a coat of red oxide primer on the interior of the boot.

I'll let that little lot dry off for a couple of days before I apply the seam sealant to all of the panel joints.

Overall a good weekend's work, and definitely getting closer to a working Herald.

Karl

[Colin Lindsay]

Yes, looking good! I have all of this ahead of me, am intending to start my 1200 convertible rebuild in a month or two once I get some free time. I've actually got to the stage where I've forgotten how things go back together - too many hours at work and not enough in the garage!

[Bordfunker]

Thanks Colin.

Are you going to document your rebuild on the forum?

It would be good see how an expert does it.

Karl

 

[Colin Lindsay]

Er....no. (For 'expert' read 'practiced bodger'.)

I'll post all the problems I encounter along the way, though. Expect plenty!

[Bordfunker]

Colin, it wouldn't be a Triumph without a few challenges along the way!

Now I wasn't expecting to get any time on the car this weekend as my youngest son is supposed to be starting university this weekend, and therefore I was expecting to spend the weekend getting him packed, and then driving him up to Lancashire, however he's come down with an infection, so although the packing is done, he's staying home for a few days while the antibiotics kick in. 

Which meant I was left with a few hours to myself to work on the car, having fixed the mower and mowed the lawn, with the added bonus that the weather cleared up, and the temperature rose enough to consider some spraying.

But before I could break out the spray gun I needed to apply the seam sealant to all of the internal seams ahead of the top coat. I've never used seam sealant before, but it was pretty straight forward, just painting the gloopy sealant on with a paint brush, leaving me with this.

I like seam sealant it helps cover up my messy welding!

Hopefully this will last almost 50 years like that applied by the factory!

With that lot daubed on, it was time to let it dry off before applying top coat, so I turned my attention to the near side rear brakes which I had started looking at last weekend.

The cylinder itself was fine, but both the external dust cover over the rear of the cylinder and the handbrake actuator, and the internal ones were torn, so I ordered new ones from Paddocks, assuming that the driver's side will be in a similar condition when I get to it.

Here's the cylinder and piston stripped out and cleaned up.

And here we are 5 minutes later with a new seal fitted to the piston, and dust cover fitted to the cylinder.

At this point I also cleaned up the retaining clips from the back plate and the bleed nipple, before reattaching the whole lot to the back plate.

This just left me to re-install the brake shoes themselves, which should have been a straightforward piece of work, but I'd forgotten just how fiddly it can be to put brake shoes in.

After much swearing, and installing one of the shoes the wrong way round, I finally got everything back together, the drum back on, and the brakes adjusted, which then allowed me to install one of the new brake hoses that I'd also purchased, having decided to replace all the flexible hoses in one go.

Here's the passenger side one peaking out from between the rear suspension.

With that finally out of the way, it was time to start applying the top coat to the boot area, starting with a mist coat, and then a heavier coat over the recessed portions of the boot such as reinforcing ribs, and the edges of any panels.

I'll let that lot harden off for a few days before flatting it back and applying another couple of coats, which should see the paintwork inside the boot completed.

I did have some fun and games with the paint gun while trying to paint the boot, with the gun refusing to apply a decent coat of paint, despite increasing the fan setting, backing off the needle, all of which should have provided a healthy supply of paint, but no.

Eventually I realised that the breather hole in the top of the paint cup was blocked, creating a vacuum within the cup, and stopping all paint flow! 2 minutes with a drill and I have a breather hole that won't block, and which the allowed me to get on with applying the paint.

Next weekend it's time to take my eldest off to university in Cornwall, so that will be Saturday wiped out, so progress will be slow over the new few weeks.

Karl

[Bordfunker]

After a break for a couple of weeks due to having to ferry both sons to university, one to Cornwall, the other to Lancashire, the last one twice as he wasn't feeling well the first time, and had to be brought back home again!

So with son number 2 safely deposited in Lancashire yesterday, time to get back to the Herald, which means unfortunately an afternoon on my back, stripping under seal, paint & rust off of the underside of the boot floor.

What fun!

 Now I really wish that I had done this before I replaced the passenger side boot out rigger, as there is very little room between the out rigger and the wheel well to get tools in to remove paint and rust.

As per the usual, the under seal was tackled with white spirit, brushed on, and then scraped off with a paint scraper and wood chisel.

This was followed by several hours of sanding, scraping, brushing etc. to remove the paint and rust over the passenger half of the boot. I will do the driver's side, but at the moment I need to do the passenger side so that I can get the fuel tank back in, as with the tank in I can't get access to all the bolts that hold the valances on.

So here we are.....

You can see how little space there is between the boot out rigger and wheel well here.

Next up was a coat of Kurust, paying particular attention to the seams to ensure that the rust inhibitor got into all the nooks and crannies.

I know a lot of people don't think much of Kurust, but I must admit it has kept the rust at bay wherever I have used it.

Unlike Triumph I will be applying seam sealant to all of the external seams, which will hopefully further keep the rust at bay.

That lot is now drying off with the help of a heater in the garage, and with a bit of luck may well get a coat of etch primer this evening.

While I was under the car and covered in filth, I thought I would attack the diff with some Gunk, and the steam cleaner, which left me with this.

My main reason for doing this wasn't cosmetic, so much as making sure that I could determine exactly where the oil leak was coming from, and not just assuming that it was the nose oil seal.

This should also make topping up the diff oil a little less horrible!

Karl

[Bordfunker]

After a break of couple of weeks of seeming to do nothing but drive around the country dropping my sons off at university, or bringing them back home for hospital appointments, time for an update on progress on the Herald, because there has actually been some.

After my rebuild of the passenger side rear drum, attention turned to it's opposite number on the driver's side with the expectation of a quick strip down and clean up, followed by replacement of the seals and reassembly, however this was not to be.

Here's the piston after I finally extracted it from the cylinder.

Not looking particularly healthy, so a candidate for replacement, along with the cylinder, and here we are with everything reassembled.

As part of the general refresh of the braking system, I also replaced the brake hose.

Along with the rear drums the front callipers have been stripped, cleaned and reassembled so that they are ready for their transfusion of silicone brake fluid.

Next step will be the re-installation of the brake lines at the rear of the car, which have been re-made in copper, but that will have to wait until the boot and under boot area have been painted, which is where my efforts have gone over the last week.

First up was applying a coat of red oxide primer, followed by seam sealant on all of the external seams.

As you can see I didn't hold back on the sealant, as I wanted to ensure that the seams would remain rust free, and properly sealed on both sides.

The primer then got a rub down with 600 grade wet and dry ahead of application of the top coats.

The interior of the boot also got a rub down.

Then, making the most of today's lovely weather, I cracked on with the spraying of the top coats.

I must admit that the painting of the underside of the boot floor was a bit of a nightmare, even with the back end of the car a foot off the ground, as there is precious little access around some of the areas of the wheel well and boot out rigger, which is going to be my excuse for the various sags and runs.

But I figure no one is ever going to see then apart from me.

I've only painted the passenger side so far as I'm still stripping the under seal off the driver's side, but I can continue to do that even after the petrol tank is in, so less urgent from my perspective.

The interior of the boot proved much easier to paint, with no sags or runs, leaving me with an acceptable finish straight from the gun.

I certainly won't be polishing this up anytime soon.

I'll let that little lot harden off overnight, and then I will start re-installing the brake pipes to the rear of the car.

Karl

[Bordfunker]

After yesterday's painting session, more painting was required but this time at the front of the car.

Last year I stripped the bulkhead around the clutch and brake master cylinders back to bare metal as there had been numerous spillages of brake fluid and the area was looking pretty grotty.

Roll on 12 months and with the persistent leak from the brake master cylinder, now hopefully cured, the area was looking pretty cruddy again, cue stripping disks and wire brushes.

There is quite a lot of pitting as the metal has obviously seen quite a lot of abuse and neglect over the years.

Therefore first step was a coat of etch primer from the rattle can.

To address the pitting I'll pick up some high-build primer and give the area a couple of coats, before flatting back, and then I'll apply a coat of red oxide.

As well as improving the area around the master cylinders, I've also cleaned up and re-painted the brackets themselves.

Here they are resting in position.

The master cylinders have had a spruce up externally, so the whole ensemble ought to look a lot nicer, and with the move to silicone fluid, there will be no more peeling paint if there are any further leaks.

Remaining on the theme of brakes, it was time to install the new copper brake lines that my local garage had made up.

Here's the view under the passenger side rear wheel arch, with the brass union in place, and the feeds to the rear wheels already installed.

Now the observant of you might have spotted an issue here.

Yes, the bloody pipe that runs front to back is too short!!!

To say I was a little miffed is an understatement as I was looking forward to getting the brakes at the rear of the car all buttoned up this weekend.

I guess I shall be paying my local garage another visit this week.

From reading my exploits so far in this thread, you would be forgiven for thinking that I only ever work on the underside of my car, but to prove that, that is not the case, work has commenced on the interior, namely the driver's seat which was looking very tired.

The seat base cover had split along one of the seams, as you can see here.

The cover came off without too much of a fight and will be handed over to the tender mercies of Mrs B and her sewing skills.

This left me with this lot.

As you can see the foam has seen better days, and is starting to crumble, so I have ordered a replacement from Paddocks.

Aside from that, the bulk of the interior is OK, it needs new carpets, and the headlining will need to be replaced, but the seats are good, as is the dash, just requiring a rub down and a fresh coat of varnish.

Karl

 

 

[Bordfunker]

I was hoping to get the fuel tank back in this weekend, but I have been stricken by the lurg so don't feel much like working in a cold and drafty garage, however I don't want to waste the weekend either so decided to tackle some low hassle tasks that can be done indoors.

First up was cleaning the rear over  riders, and the associated stainless steel strips which sit above them either side of the rear light clusters.

The over riders are not in great nick, but will have to do, having obviously had a very hard life with a number of impacts evident.

The stainless steel strips are in far better condition, and have responded well to a clean up with some metal polish.

One of the over riders is in worse condition than the other, with lots of rust pitting, and general signs of distress.

At some point I will replace it, but that will have to wait for now.

The other one, while not pristine is in better condition, and came up quiet respectably after a polish.

With those done, I turned my attention to re-uniting the brake and clutch master cylinders with their respective brackets.

Much smarter, with the cylinders cleaned up and the brackets re-painted ready to go back on.

I just need to sort out that brake line that was too short, and finish painting the bulkhead under the brackets, and then this lot can go back it, and I will have a working clutch and brake system.

Karl

[PeteH]

 

Interesting Read. Occupied some hours whilst Nursing the (man) "flu" (well nasty cold actually, as I`ve Just had my "flu" jab, so it can`t be flu, can it?). I have a great deal of sympathy for working under car`s in cold weather. Arthritis is a killer!. I am in the process of doing a "nut and Bolt" on a 13/60. (Post Retirement Project!) Well it started out as a Rolling resto!. But the condition of the Chassis, had dictated removal of the "tub" sections, which are on their sides (braced) waiting attention!. Having acquired Severe backache (and visits to a Chiropractor!) trying to weld in positions last seen in the "Karma Sutra". I applied some lateral thinking and produced a Rotator built from the remains of 2 redundant Towing brackets, Cut down Scaffolding, scrap angle bar and Utilising the Anti roll bar Mounts and the Towing bracket I fabricated. (no one makes one any more!). This works a treat!. I can now weld Down hand (most of the time). and refurbishing Bits of Wheel Mount etc; is less demanding of my Back!. Cleaning and Painting (in my case hand brushing Black Hammerite) is also less of a hassle.

Your Herald is coming on nicely, and at least your are (occasionally) getting to drive it, I will have to wait, possible a couple of years!. at the current rate of progress, the target at the moment is a Rolling Chassis By Xmas (2017?)

Keep up the good work.

 

Pete

[dougbgt6]

Karl, love your garage, things piled on things, bottles squeezed onto shelves, boxes of know not what. Just like mine. Except mine is much smaller and more.....random. 

A neighbour's garage I was at recently, scary, 200 identical plastic boxes, each with clear and precise labels on straight and regular shelves. Several of those Halfords chest tool cases on wheels. I'd like a tool wall, but does it need labels?

At my brother's garage, when he's had enough of the Spitfire he spends another 1/2 hour polishing, cleaning and putting away. When I've had enough of the GT I throw the tools down and think "clear up tomorrow". Once or twice a season I have a purge, spend the day putting away and chucking out.  

I must try harder!

 

[Bordfunker]

Pete, hope you are feeling better soon, like your idea of lifting the chassis for better access.

At the moment mine just about qualifies as a ‘rolling rest’, but given that I haven’t driven it in almost 6 months it doesn’t feel like one.

Given that mine needs an MoT before it can return to the road in earnest, and given that the under seal is peeling off the chassis and underside of the tub, I can see a point where I may need to separate tub and chassis, just so that I can deal with the de-rust and repaint properly, so may well make use of your approach.

Doug, I know what you mean about the mess in my garage! I do usually try and tidy up, if only to prevent trip hazards, but not feeling great the last couple of weeks, and having to ferry kids around has left me with little time, and even less inclination.

Once I’ve got the Herald running again, I’ll have a thorough tidy up as there is loads of stuff that I don’t need any more.

I know what you mean about neat freaks, it’s just not natural!

Karl

 

[Bordfunker]

I did actually feel well enough yesterday to get some more done on the Herald, which is starting to make it look like a viable car again.

First up were the rear tub mounting bolts, which received new rubber mounts and a re-spray of the original thick mounting washers.

That firmed the backend up nicely, and allowed me to fit the passenger side valance.

I was probably a bit premature in tightening this one up and applying the sealant, as there is further adjustment required to get all of the valancing to fit properly.

The centre and driver's side valances are in a very poor state, rotting through from the rear of the portions where the rubber bumper strips mount.

This is the state of the centre valance. It will do for now, but in the new year when the weather warms up I'll fork out for replacements, that I can then spray up and fit.

This is the top of the driver's side valance!

This why I'll need to fettle the fit, as I've managed to get bolts lined up on the boot edge and valances, but not on the mounting points under the lights.

I know no one will ever see, and they will all get replaced in 5 months, but it bugs me!

Here it is with everything fitted, but in need of further adjustment.

See what I mean about starting to look like a car again?

As you can see, I need to have a tidy up!

Karl

[PeteH]

Hi again. The (DIY) rotator works OK. But once the chassis is up and running. I then have the issue of how to manage the welding required on the 2 Tub Sections. and a Bonnet with "Rust worm".? The thinking at this time is to put the chassis on Jack Stands. and a Sheet of 3/4 Ply or similar on top of it and use it as a Work space?. with the sections on top of the ply base?.

As For tidy!. What you see passes for tidy here!. Spanners in  bucket, (all in one place?). Then every now and again I have the Purge. It all goes back in it`s place. and we start over!. AND that in what passes these days as a "double" garage!. Luxury indeed, I am too old to be doing stuff out in the weather. In Fact anyone got an Old Wood burner?, all that removed Underseal should burn well?.

The 13/60 has Alloy trim strips, where yours has Rubber. My Valences are not too grotty, and should repair/clean up. The front Valence Is F Glass!!. And I suspect it will be going back on! the price of the new steel ones are eye-watering.

Keep it up, I`ll come back time and see what progress! Cheers.

Pete

[Bordfunker]

Pete, have you thought about making a frame on wheels that can be slid over the chassis, that the body tub can be mounted on?

This is the approach I am thinking of taking, as and when the time comes to sort out the rust on the chassis and the underside of the tub, as it would allow access to both chassis and tub, all within a single garage.

With regards the valances and rubber bumpers, I may well lose the rubber and just go with the painted valances a la the original Herald 948.

I managed an hour and a half on the car this afternoon, slackening off all the valance bolts and getting everything properly aligned, which has made me a much happier bunny.

With that out of the way, I had a go at putting the petrol tank back in, and amazingly it went in without much of a fight!

I still need to fit the fuel tank sender unit, for which I have a lovely new cork gasket and some sealant, and I do have a question about one of the tank components which is baffling me. 

Oh , and I forgot to fit the filler neck seal, so not sure if the tank will have to come out to refit that, or can attempt it from outside the car.

The other thing I need to do is scrape all of the old boot seal, which I'm really looking forward to.

Other than that, I am now well on my way to having a functioning car, and will hopefully have the fuel line back in next week, and the engine up and running again, which will be a major milestone.

Karl

[Pete Lewis]

Back in 1965 I had a   1959 948 in mauve /white, the rear bumper profile was rotten as socks, three body mounts had disapeared and both front floors could get your feet through , what siderails, it was a  wreck and only 6 year old     I dont think it survived for any resto

So I reckon youre doing ok

 

Pete

 

 

[Bordfunker]

Thanks Pete!

Just need to sort out the driver’s seat, which Mrs B is currently working on, fabricate some brackets for the front valance, and get the horn to work.

Karl

 

[Bordfunker]

No progress pics this week as it was too cold and too dark in the garage to work the I-phone camera, though lots of progress.

The front valance is now firmly attached with two new brackets made up from mild steel, painted and fitted at either end of the bumper bar, replacing the two previous brackets which had been secured with fibre glass resin!

The fuel tank and line are now back in, but it now looks like the pump itself has failed, so I can feel a pump rebuild coming on.

So no engine start up this weekend.

I also managed to get one of the captive seat mount bolts replaced as the previous one was no longer captive, and the hole in the floor which it sits in had become enlarged, requiring much furttling under the car to get it to fit, along with a couple of hefty thumps from the lump hammer.

Just to make sure I then added a couple of weld beads either side of the new bolt to stop it moving in future.

Not the most exciting progress, but a few more steps closer to a working Herald.

Karl

[Badwolf]

Karl - What is the problem with your horn? I had problems with mine and have strip down photos which may help before you take a hammer to it. Mine are the twin 'snail' type, high and low tones, MkIV 72 Spitfire.