Colin Lindsay Posted May 13, 2019 Report Share Posted May 13, 2019 11 hours ago, Bordfunker said: (Can I just say how much I love having a blast cabinet!) Yes, and I'll agree with you! I've a heater box to blast later today, plus a lot of suspension components, but I think with those last I'll take them to a mate with a professional setup who will do the heavier items, like wheels, engine side panels, and wishbones, for pennies. It's easier that way, especially when I need him to blast a bodytub later that won't fit in my cabinet. For smaller or more delicate stuff, fire up the stereo headphones and enjoy an hour of blasting to music. There's something very therapeutic about blasting old paint off and magically making new bits appear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted May 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2019 It’s a lot safer too than trying to strip the paint off small components with a rotary wire brush in a drill! The number of times I’ve lost a latex glove to the spinning bristles of wire brush. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted May 16, 2019 Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 Latex 😳. I only ever use nitrile ones. Without powder. No idea if I’m allergic but don’t want to find out the hard way 😂 i often double bag too. Stops some of the muck if the top one splits there is another underneath to keep my delicate pinkies clean. 🤪 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted May 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 You are a delicate soul! Must try nitrile gloves, as the powder on the latex ones isn’t good when you’re painting. Karl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted May 16, 2019 Report Share Posted May 16, 2019 4 hours ago, Anglefire said: Latex 😳. I only ever use nitrile ones. Without powder. No idea if I’m allergic but don’t want to find out the hard way 😂 i often double bag too. Stops some of the muck if the top one splits there is another underneath to keep my delicate pinkies clean. 🤪 A friend many years ago found the ideal way of getting his hands clean after messing with cars all weekend......... He would volunteer to make the pastry on a Monday.............. He was a chef in a large factory !!!!!!!!!!! No gloves around then. Tony. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted May 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2019 Despite the fact I didn't post anything last week, it doesn't mean I didn't get anything done. With half the flatting back done the week before, I spent another hour or so flatting back the heater box components and the diff. The shocks and the rear track control arm mounts got a coat of filler primer to try and remove some of the pitting, leaving me with a pair of Spax knock offs! I then reassembled the diff and yoke, utilising my patented locking bar. All back together and ready for paint. The heater box components also got a coat of filler primer, followed by etch primer. These will need some more work before they are ready for top coating, but nice to see them going in the right direction. Karl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 27, 2019 Report Share Posted May 27, 2019 Nice work!! Just to be nosey - as I've the same job still to do - how did you torque up the diff pinion nut? Any tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted May 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2019 Colin, to be honest I haven't torqued it up yet, as I was going to leave that until it was back on the car. Even then, I will just use the locking handle that I made up and the torque wrench, as thankfully my diff just has the castellated nut, rather than the crush tube thingy. The plan was to get all of the parts that I'd prepped last week painted this week, making full use of the long weekend, however best laid plans and all that as Mrs B scored a new sink for our ensuite for £10, so no excuse not to replace the one that she cracked with a perfume bottle. Dont ask! Between that and the weather, I only managed to get a few hours on Saturday afternoon, but that was enough to get a first coat of gloss black epoxy mastic on. Looking like a rack of overcooked ribs! And the long ones. As I can't hang these up, I am having to paint them one side at a time, starting with the underside. Also in line for paint were the track control arms and the upright. Along with a number of other rear suspension components. The diff also got in on the act, though not the best photo. The diff will need another coat as there are a couple of places where you can still see the red primer. And seeing as I had paint left in the gun, I gave the internals of the heater box a first coat of black. All of which only took around 90 minutes, including clean up, not helped by me kicking the dreggs of paint in the mixing cup over the garage floor. Did I mention I was clumsy? So what to do next? Well, given that I had picked up the local club hub puller earlier in the week, I set about fitting it to the hub. At which point I realised that none of my spanners fit the nut on top, but thankfully I found a truly ancient spanner, that I acquired from who knows where, but which fitted perfectly. At which point the straining and grunnting began as I tried manfully, stop laughing at the back, to pop the hub off the taper. I ended up standing on one leg, with my boot against the vice and driveshaft, straining away until eventually it released, dumping me on my arse in the middle of the garage! I did say I was clumsy! I must have made a racket as Mrs B came out to see what the hell I was up to. All this did leave me with access to remove the backplate.... ......and take a look at the bearing itself. The bearing looks to be in fine health, but doesn't look to have been pushed fully onto the driveshaft, which suggests that someong has replaced it in a half arsed manner. Next job will be to extract the driveshaft, so that I can take a good look at the roller bearing, and driveshaft, but that will have to wait until next week now. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 28, 2019 Report Share Posted May 28, 2019 If it stayed proud you would have had a gap to the back plate The bearing hsg should move easy off the bearing in fact it may if diameters allow slide down the drive shaft enough to examine the needle diameter condition without removing the main bearing ( just an idea) The bearing is a right tight fit on the shaft but loose in the hsg. If the bearing is in the wrong place you find the drum and linings wont be inline , ie. big gap drum to backplate Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted May 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2019 Pete, the housing moves easilly off the bearing, but if you pull the housing so that the bearing is flush, you are then left with a 3mm gap between the oil thrower at the diff end of the housing, and the housing itself. Even with the retaining plate in place, holding the bearing in the front of the housing, there is still about 3mm of movement, wheareas I would have expected the distance between the oil thrower and the bearing to be fixed with the bearing fully seated on the shaft to define that fixed length, effectively pinning the housing in place on the shaft between bearing and oil thrower. Hence thinking that either the bearing isn't fully seated, or that the oil thrower has shifted towards the diff. I didn't notice any issues with the drum fitting to the hub, but then that relationship is fixed, with the driveshaft moving fore and aft in the hub, and 3mm isn't a great deal. I'll strip it all down as a matter or course and check everything over, so if there is anything amiss, it should become obvious. Thanks Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 28, 2019 Report Share Posted May 28, 2019 believe the flinger is very easy to move and in some cases has opened up so much it wont stay put. If youve got everything else right just tap it along evenly up to the housing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 28, 2019 Report Share Posted May 28, 2019 Im nor aware of any spacer or shim to control the fit of brg in the hsg, unless you have a brg, thats on the thin side Maybe of a oriental source ?? You cant use the flinger as a guide they are a rattling good fit often stuck on once moved they become a loose flinger. The movement you see on the shaft must be the brg. Moving inside the hsg. The bearing outer should not be nipped but able to slowly rotate with the drag of rotation so the outer cup is never stuck taking the road load in the same place There is no register on the shaft to control where the shaft and bearing sit its all down to the tight fit on the shaft Pulled into place with the hub and its torqued up nut Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted May 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2019 That all sounds like a loose flinger then! Hopefully that means it just needs a strip down, clean up, and a coat of paint. Thanks guys. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted June 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 Seeing as last Saturday was lovely and hot, and certainly far too hot to be mowing the lawn, I escaped to the garage to get the final coat of black paint on the diff and springs. With a bit of forethought this painting mullarkey is definitely getting easier, and I soon had the leaves from the springs looking resplendant in a coat of gloss black. Proof in the background that the entire car is not in bits. Yet! Some of the smaller components also got another coat of paint, and were then bagged up to keep them safe. These are handbrake and heater assemby components, which will be tucked away in a storage box shortly. The big cork gasket goes between the fan housing and the fan mounting, and I've retained it as I can't find a replacement for sale. With paint applied, and time to spare I started on the remaining rear driveshaft and hub, just look at the muck on that! Removal of the upright revealed a mass of leaking grease. Which was no doubt coming from here! It's not clear if there is actually an oil flinger in there, or whether the rear of the housing is open, hence the mess! The whole lot is now sitting in the vice with the hub splitter on top, as I couldn't get it to budge on Saturday afternoon, so will see if prolonged tension, as per Pete's suggestion will help. That still leaves the bearings to be extracted from the other housing, for which the following will come in very useful. Ordered from the club shop on Friday, and turned up Monday. I know I won't use it very often, but I will make it available to local members to borrow, so that we can all get some value from it. Karl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 Typo......it gets the bearing and hsg. Off the shaft , not the brg. Out the hsg. Its loose in the hsg. But friggin tight on the shaft the puller drags both off the shaft Good luck , just think when you whizz a roundabout its how tight this is that stops things moving about wonderfull !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 2 hours ago, Bordfunker said: It's not clear if there is actually an oil flinger in there, or whether the rear of the housing is open, hence the mess! It appears to be growing a carrot... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 Its part of the ABS Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 Does that stand for Ancient Braking System. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted June 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 Pete it really ought to be called a driveshaft ejector, as that is effectively what it does, but I guess if the club called it that, no one would have clue what it actually did! The ‘carrot’ is an earplug I popped into the brake line connectors to keep the muck out, and is a core component of the ABS on my car. ABS is this case of course stands for Absent Braking System. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 we all want to know how this goes , ive only used a vice and a whacker to bounce it all round the workshop i need to reset a rear hub bearing float on the 2000 they were recons a couple of years back but friendly MOT says ive got too much float on one side need a f ing big thin spanner i think , but it got to be easier than rotoflex or swing axle , just need to get on me knees one tywrap 6 nuts and its off.... pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: just need to get on me knees That's easy, it's getting up again is the problem. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Having got the hub off the driver's side driveshaft assembly last week, it was time to try my new tool, and eject the driveshaft from the bearing assembly. So excited was I to try this, I forgot to take any photos! Ooops! Long story short, the driveshaft was smoothly ejected, leaving me with a naked driveshaft, and a pile of constituent components. Which meant now was crunch time, was my driveshaft fit for re-use? Yes! Although there are track marks where the bearings have run, there is no wear, nor sign of a lip either, so that's a relief. The bearings also got a thorough inspection, and both appear of decent manufacture, and working as intended, no noise, no roughness etc. Here they are, along with the cleaned up back plate and oil flinger thingy. OK so that is one hub removed, what about the other one I hear you cry? No dice! This begger won't move, despite my best efforts, and actually managed to deform the steel cup that goes between the bolt in the hub puller and the end of the driveshaft! Therefore the passenger side driveshaft will be taking a trip to my local classic friendly garage on Friday morning to see if they can shift it. Arguably I could just leave it given that the other hub was fine, however both the front and rear oil seals appear to have failed, so failing to address it now, would just be saving up trouble for another day. This is the passenger side driveshaft and backplate. It's much scabbier than the driver's side, and when I removed the adjuster, one of the rams simply fell out! If I couldn't remove the hub, I could at least make a start on removing the UJs on both shafts. Again more easily said than done, as my first, albeit somewhat cheapo, set of circlip pliers self-destructed on contact, cue trip to Halfords for a decent set, and a can of WD40 release agent. Result! Now how do I get the UJs out? YouTube is your friend here, and I soon rigged up a crude extractor, leaving me with this. 30 seconds with a pair of mole grips had this removed, which just leaves the other side of the UJ to do, before I do the other driveshaft. Both UJs are in good shape, with no play, or obvious wear, and are both GKN, so appear to be good quality. And finally, a quick comparison between the two rear uprights, one post clean up, and the other following a rough clean up with a wire brush. All in all a fairly productive weekend. Karl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Dont forget the inboard oil seal fits back to front to let grease out keep dirt out The outer fits as you expect. Although greasy linning last for ever Ha ! The dimension in the wsm for drifting the bearing back on is just enough to allow fitting the hub and nut , torqure the hub and it should Position the bearing hsg. And back plate live in hope Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 One of my favourite authors is a man called Keith Roberts - sadly now deceased, but lived around the Poole and Corfe areas of Dorset - and one of his books gave me the mantra I use when stuck at some job or other that will not do what I want. "A vehicle, any vehicle, is a machine assembled by men. What has been assembled, can be disassembled." If I can't take something apart, I'm doing it wrong... that's usually time for a break, or go do something else. Penetrating oil, heat, and patience, and it'll shift. And as Homer Simpson says: "If at first you don't succeed.... hide all the evidence that you ever tried." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 one old school supervisor in our apprentice training school was more simplistic if at first you dont succeed ...try a BIGGER hammer Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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