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**20/07/21 Well, Well, Well ** Probably how not to restore a Herald!

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see my post on tracking ...its easy ,  dont assume the new TRE is the same length as the removed one unless you can measure it accuratley


and dont forget its 150lbs on each seat in a Herald.  something the so called specialists just  wont know or do !!!

so you pay good money to have it all wrong !!! 


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Pete good point about the TRE being a different length.


I was intending to check that this evening after pumping in some grease as the new TRE had very little in it, however this was not to be.


I applied my trusty Wanner grease gun full of grease and applied 5 strokes of the handle.




Well it would be if the grease gun had disengaged.


The grease nipple was stuck firmly in the end of the grease gun.


I spent the next half an hour trying to remove the offending nipple with no joy, so it's now stuck in the Wanner I use for grease.


I can only assume that the new grease nipple is larger than the standard ones on the Herald, as the Wanner has had no issues with these in the past.


I feel a call to Canley Classics is in order in the morning.



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The self grip nozzle will unscrew from the gun and you can undo the thing to get at the sprung claw

and its gubbins (well mine does)


Mine does not appear to unscrew!


Luckily I scored another Wanner gun at the NEC at the weekend so that I now have one for oil and one for grease, so can at least swap the tips over while I attempt to remove the nipple.


Unfortunately Doug my nipple has not fallen off!



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The nipple has finally been extracted from the tip of the Wanner.


It did mean clamping my Wanner in the bench vice and then grasping the nipple firmly with a pair of pliers!


Pretty much a standard weekend in my household.


I've sorted out the brake master cylinder for now, fitting a new seal and cleaning up all the jointing surfaces.


When I ordered my track rod end from Canleys I also ordered new top and bottom cooling hoses and clips, as mine are of unknown vintage, and look like they could do with replacement.


The replacement bottom hose looks fine, however this is the existing top hose in situ.


And this is the replacement.


Why is my hose so different?

And more importantly what can I replace it with.


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I checked both Canleys and Rimmer Bro's sites and they both show the same hose for both Heralds and Spitfires, hence my confusion.


So sounds like I just need to get in a supply of antifreeze in for next weekend, and practise my Anglo-Saxon expletives ahead of trying to get those hoses on.


I'll also give the rad and the block a flush through as it's anyone's guess what crud is in there.


Thanks for the feedback both.



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As well as removing my leaking brake master cylinder, I also tackled replacing the radiator top and bottom hoses, flushing out the radiator and engine block, before putting the whole lot back together and refilling the system.

The first jubilee clip on the top hose came off nice and easily, not so the second which had to be hacksawed off.

The hose itself was starting to perish and come off without issue, leaving me with this.


Quite a scabby looking alloy thermostat cover.

That wasn't going to promote a good seal with the new hose, so out came the power drill and the wire brushes, and 5 minutes later I was left with this.


Not perfect, but a big improvement.

Like the top hose, the first Jubilee clip on the bottom hose came off without a fight, no so the second which again required the use of the hacksaw.

However I couldn't reach the lower clip with the hacksaw until I'd removed the radiator itself.


Here it is post flushing with the hosepipe.

You can just make out the letters HR stencilled on the radiator core.

The water pump stub was in better shape than the thermostat housing one, but still got attacked with the wire brushes

to be on the safe side.

With that done I set about flushing both the radiator and block with a hosepipe, having removed the drain taps from both beforehand.

Both block and radiator proved to be pretty clean with the water running clear within a minute or so, so it then time to put it all back together, which took no time at all, leaving me with this.

Not the most dramatic of changes, but one that will hopefully promote reliability in the future.

I tried firing up the Herald after this, but it's still being obstinate, which suggests a dodgy battery.

I tried testing it with my multimeter, but managed to fry it as I obviously had it on the wrong setting! Whoops.

Think new fuses may be in order.


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Doug its like your wallet ,,,,,,,, sorry that unfair ....no the head studs everything on you car is done up

by a gorilla


ive got some 3ft stilsons you can borrow. Access is the restricting factor , then the tap shears off

And you have to tap the remains

best fit a less usefull but lasts longer hex headed plug you can get a socket on

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I'll second the heated boiler suit!


Could have done with one this weekend, particularly when flushing the coolant out.


Having said that the Herald started beautifully this morning after an hours charging, it must have known I was on the verge of buying a new battery.


I had the battery clamps on and off yesterday a number of times, so not sure if that may have de-glazed the terminals.


Just in case it was I gave them a rub down with some sandpaper.


This at least allowed me to manoeuvre the car in and out of the garage so I could roughly align the tracking after replacing the TRE.


I marked out a couple of straight lines on the garage floor with masking tape at the same track as the front wheels.


It's crude but it'll do for now until I've done the other upright, after which I'll get it set up properly.



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The replacement brake master cylinder arrived last week from Rimmers, and was duly installed on Saturday afternoon, with assistance from Mrs Bordfunker in the bleeding of the brakes.


Result, one car that stops, and does not leak brake fluid.


Unfortunately said vehicle then refused to start, despite having the battery charged overnight.


Battery was then unceremoniously dumped in the back of my diminutive C1, and taken down to Halfords for a battery check.


As expected, the volts were fine, but the amps were only about 2/3 of what they should have been, explaining the distinct lack of oomph on starting.


£45 later, and new battery installed, and I have a car which turns over perfectly.


But still won't start!!!


Didn't get time to delve into it yesterday, but suspecting either a fuel or ignition issue. Ho hum.


Mrs Bordfunker, I need your assistance......



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Not a lot of time to work on the Herald this weekend due to being knackered from work, and preparations for some forthcoming festive period.


However I did convince Mrs Bordfunker to help test the coil this evening, by repeatedly turning over the engine while testing the spark at the king lead and also at the spark plug end through the distributor itself.


In each case I got a spark at the plug, however if didn't look or sound as powerful as I would expect.


Not really time to check it all with the multimeter, that and I need to do some reading up on how to test the coil effectively with a multimeter.


In other news, I managed to knock the heater motor off the shelf while chasing a beagle out of the garage!


The plastic fan has shattered, so at some point I'm going to be in the market for a replacement fan assembly.


Not my most successful weekend.



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Work?!! There's your problem, you want to get out of that asap! Get Mrs B a job, or, two jobs!


Even with a weak spark you might expect it to try. Can you smell fuel when you turn it over, plugs out? If you turn it over, plugs in, then take one out, is it wet with fuel? It should be. I have a rattle can of stuff called Easy Start, a squirt of that in the carb and it will fire even with the weakest of sparks.


I once had a completely shot manifold gasket and the engine was pulling air through the gasket rather than fuel mixture through the carb.

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  • Bordfunker changed the title to **20/07/21 Well, Well, Well ** Probably how not to restore a Herald!

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