Bordfunker Posted June 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Pete, good point on the inboard oil seal, I hadn’t realised it was reversed. Colin, I’m not sure this hub was assembled by a man based on the evidence, more likely a gorilla with a very large spanner! I’m hoping the local garage can shift it so that I can get on with stripping it down, cleaning it, and then giving everything a coat of paint. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Have you left the puller on overnight ??? Sometimes it works when your napping Do look check the hub flanges are not distorted by the puller, they arebeasy to bend , and makes drums a good wobbly fit Amd the drum distorts when you tighten the wheel nuts While its off try to check the face is flat Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted June 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Overnight? Try over the weekend! That beggar isn’t going anywhere. The club hub puller seems to stop too much pressure being put on the hub flange and bending it, as the driver’s side hub is still nice and straight after being removed. The hub puller is still on as I type this, and will probably remain there until it goes to the garage on Friday, at which point it will almost certainly release of its own accord! Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Easy to get off Karl, just point it at something you dont want damaged........... Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 It will fly off in the car exit via the windscreen cause chaos and like hub caps never be seen again Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted June 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 I’ve left the hub nut on so that even it it does release it can’t brake free. Well that’s the theory at least! If that released in the back of my little Citroen C1, there’d be nothing left of the car! Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 14 hours ago, Bordfunker said: The hub puller is still on as I type this, and will probably remain there until it goes to the garage on Friday, at which point it will almost certainly release of its own accord! Karl Everytime you walk past, take a hammer and gently tap around the hub in a nice, gentle rhythm, almost like drumming, for a couple of minutes. If the hub is straining against the hold, this will set up a rhythmic vibration that will eventually shock the hub free, but gently so as not to damage anything. It's a technique I learned from an elderly engineer and it has worked on everything from seized bolts and studs to halfshafts. You're not trying to batter it off, just vibrate it free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 or sit a speaker on it and play heavy metal at full volume... 😛 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 3 hours ago, Bordfunker said: I’ve left the hub nut on so that even it it does release it can’t brake free. Well that’s the theory at least! That is where you are going wrong Karl....... It needs sod's law to kick in........ Colin's idea has worked in the past as well. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted June 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 I think I might have to give the rhythmic hammering a go as a last ditch effort before I take it to the garage. Nothing to lose after all. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 7 hours ago, NonMember said: or sit a speaker on it and play heavy metal at full volume... 😛 Or strap it to purring cat. Obviously the larger the better. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 4 hours ago, Bordfunker said: I think I might have to give the rhythmic hammering a go as a last ditch effort before I take it to the garage. Nothing to lose after all. Karl I wonder if we will all hear it when it goes....................... Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 14, 2019 Report Share Posted June 14, 2019 ... or see it... TAKE COVER!! INCOMING!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted June 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 OK tried all that, and the hub is still stuck to the bloody driveshaft! It's mocking me now! Tried taking it to the local classic friendly garage on Friday, but they didn't seem overly interested and suggested applying heat! I don't have a blow torch or equivalent, so will have to see if my father has something that might do the trick next weekend. This was supposed to be a long weekend as Mrs B is away up North, but driving home on Friday my modern started making strange noises on the M25, which further investigation at Beaconsfield services revealed to be due to a sheered exhaust bracket on the back box, leaving the pipe resting on the rear beam axle, hence the noise! So Friday, which was supposed to be focussed on Herald based activities, ended up with me spending several hours sittiing in a coffee shop, while the C1 received a new exhaust. Saturday dawned wet and dreary, so I set to trying to remove the UJs from the drivce shafts, a task which was definitely a game of two halves. The passenger side UJs, unlike the hub, came out without too much trouble, however the driver's side completely refused to budge. I tried setting up a variety of rigs to push the recalcitrant UJ cups out, even resorting to using my suspension spring compressor, which it managed to break, with barely any movement. In the end I gave up and sacrificed the diff flange and ground the UJ out, so now need to buy a new UJ and drive shaft flange. Not my finest hour, but the bearing cup looked to have effectively fused with the hole in the driveshaft yoke. On a brighter note I did manage to get some paint on the components that I had removed from the driver's side hub. Even the good UJ got a lick of paint, as well as the diff studs for the spring. The passenger side upright got a clean up in the blast cabinet, followed by rust stopper and a coat of etch primer. However, looking at the lower wishbone mounting this looks to have suffered quite severe corrosion. Is this salveageable? Today was spent cleaning up the garage, to which end I bought a large wheeled storage bin from Homebase for £16 in which to store the components that had already been rebuilt. Look how clean that diff is! Unfortunately the spring is too big to fit in the storage box, but it does look good, even if it is only loosely put back together. Currently tucked behind the door in the study for want of a better place to store it. Another weekend gone, and the hub is still attached, but let's see what next weekend brings. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 Hi Karl, see if you can find an agricultural engineer nearby? They are very resourcefull chappies who hate to have a job beet them.... I am sure they would have that off in no time or the chap around the corner from me would. Shame you are not closer. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 Corrosion on the shocker pin is quite normal thats not bad you can re use it with confidence. I used a two sockets and vice to press cups , one to just fit and one for clearance , yes some can be a pig, even worse if they get pitched and dig in Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 How much torque have you put on that puller bolt? Back when I last did one (before my John Kipping puller went missing) I used to tighten it way up - near 100lbft - and give it a good whack with a lump hammer to separate some hubs. Even then it was sometimes a case of tighten, hammer, tighten again, hammer again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 As a last resort I had a forty ton press and a gas heat for a rear hub! It did come apart after a few taps but had the last laugh as the grove where the key sits broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 There's heat, and then there's HEAT. When certain items wouldn't budge after a good roasting with my gas blowtorch, a mate used a HUGE gas-cylinder-powered version and it worked in minutes. Tony's suggestion is sound - find a good engineer and he'll have it done in seconds. BTW how much did the C1 exhaust cost you? I have this one to fix tomorrow and am mildly surprised to find that a centre pipe costs more than a silencer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted June 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 Colin, the C1 exhaust was £142 supplied and fitted from Kwikfit. I did contemplate trying to weld up the bracket, but with no room in the garage, and it peeing down, I took the lazy option, which was probably best as the pipe work was starting to look very scabby. Tony, there are a number of agricultural engineers in the area which I will have to look up if my father doesn’t have a blow torch, of if that doesn’t work. Pete, good to hear the corrosion isn’t terminal. I was using the vice and socket approach, but while one cup had pushed almost out of the yoke, the corresponding one opposite was only a couple of mm proud, at which point it refused to move further in either direction. NM, not sure on the torque figures will need to check, but it’s probably not far short of a 100lb. Matt, I’m hoping not to repeat your experience! Thanks for all the suggestions. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted June 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 No real update this week, as I didn’t really make a lot of progress, as I’m still trying to get that bloody hub off. I ended up mounting the driveshaft and hub horizontally on the bench so that I could push down on the torque wrench, rather than trying to pull it with it mounted vertically in the vice. Long story short I ended up with both feet off the garage floor, and all 10 stone 4 of me hanging off the torque wrench! Did the hub budge? No but the bench top did! I manage to rip it in half! Cue Sunday afternoon after getting back from the Bicester Super Scramble rebuilding the bench with a new 18mm ply worktop, massively reinforced and screwed into the bench frame. At least I now have a shiny new bench top on which to try again next week. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 25, 2019 Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 Makes all the difference having a good clean surface to work on!! I ended up having to pay for an entire pipe and silencer for the 107; in behind the clamp in the photo it was rusted completely away. £168 in total but it sounds like a normal car now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted June 25, 2019 Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 Sounds like you have already rebuilt your bench but i would double that ply. When I rebuilt mine I used double thickness 30mm ply on 75mm x 40mm steel box frame with the vice bolting through steel tabs welded on. The whole bench and wall to 1m are cover in folded galv sheet. Nothing is moving my bench😉 Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 26, 2019 Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 I cant stand all this hubabaloo what you need is scaffold pole on the wrench Or some magic Rub adub dub release my hub A wide flamed setting on a blow lamp and give it a good cooking should expand the hub enough to break the taper Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted June 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 Colin at least the parts for C1/107/Aygo’s are cheap as chips! Having had 2 C1s over 140k miles, I’ve had to replace one exhaust box, a rear bearing and a radiator, which I don’t think is too bad for a bargain basement run about. Adrian, when I say ‘bench’, we are in fact talking about an old cabinet, so 18mm ply is a definite upgrade until such time as I invest in proper bench like yours. Pete, I wish I had a length of scaffolding pole. I used to have one many years ago for getting the hub nuts of my VW Beetle, but the scaffolding pole went with the car. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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