Jump to content

Rear end repairs - Mk 2 Vitesee


Paul H
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi just removed transverse spring , and one side of the wheel assembly and driveshaft and stripped down completely .

 

The Spring is in good condition though will change the bushes 

 

The Diff is still in place as this was changed 6 months ago with blue poly bushes 

 

Changing the Rotoflex couplings though condition was pretty good , the UJ had a lot of play so being replaced , all the bushes will be changed - A few Questions 

 

1. Are polybushes the way to go ?

 

2. The dampers are the lever type - there is pressure when moving the arms and there are no leaks  - How can I check whether they need changing ?

 

3. Is the conversion to Tele Dampers worthwhile as looks like an expensive option + some online reports ive read are not positive

 

4. The Wheel Bearing have a small amount of play - Im assuming this is ok as the front have to have play - If incorrect I will change 

 

Thanks in advance

 

Paul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Poly bushes last a long time and keep their shape, what's not too like! They are, however, a devil to install, I had to take my vice of the bench and drag it round the back of the car to squeeze them in. Also they squeaked for about 3 months.

 

Dampers, the time honoured test, heave downwards on the wing, it goes up, down and returns to rest position. Any more oscillations and they've had it.

 

I don't know of this Tele damper of which you speak, so no opinion.

 

The front wheel bearings are tapered roller bearings and have to have a tiny bit of slack, as you know.  The rears aren't tapered and I don't think there should be any play.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Poly bushes last a long time and keep their shape, what's not too like! They are, however, a devil to install, I had to take my vice of the bench and drag it round the back of the car to squeeze them in. Also they squeaked for about 3 months.

 

Dampers, the time honoured test, heave downwards on the wing, it goes up, down and returns to rest position. Any more oscillations and they've had it.

 

I don't know of this Tele damper of which you speak, so no opinion.

 

The front wheel bearings are tapered roller bearings and have to have a tiny bit of slack, as you know.  The rears aren't tapered and I don't think there should be any play.

Hi Doug - many thanks for your input - Polybush fitting shouldnt be a major issue as all parts are on the bench - I didnt realise that the rears were not tapered ( still learning !! ) so will replace them - Is there a brand to buy ? 

Regards

Paul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tighten up the front wheel bearing before the MOT and slacken them off afterwards. They don't like clonky wheel bearings, even if they're supposed to be like that!

 

The club shop sell the bearings. Club shop go for good quality at a reasonable price. Best to phone Gareth to ensure you get the right ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are doing any rota flex hub bearings I suggest you get a workshop manual

form club shop or search for steves online copies

 

There is specific end float on rear hubs and the problem is there are very limited shims available to controll this

Many dont like lever shockers but if there is a good steady resistance and no leaks

They should be satisfactory

 

pete

 

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul.

 

I converted my lever arm units for the telescopic struts and I have to say it made a very noticeable difference - with the ride being far more responsive. There was nothing wrong with the lever units, but they are getting harder to find in serviceable condition and there are very few places that will overhaul them and provide a decent job & price for doing so !!

 

Have used the GAZ adjustable shocks; some will say go Koni or Spax but I think GAZ are very underrated and have to say they do all I require. I also took the opportunity to overhaul & replace the rear trunions.

 

Purchase wise, I got mine via Rimmers only because I was attending the NEC a couple of years ago and they delivered free to the show. I believe the Club Shop does the conversion as well.

 

IMHO, a positive upgrade.

 

Good luck.

 

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

I, too, have fitted GAZ telescopic dampers (from the club shop) and have been happy with the results.  You will need the bracket that fits to the chassis which provides the top fixing for the damper.  These are available from the club shop and, I believe, Canleys (and probably others too).  I don't think you'll regret the change if you do it.  I also suffered from the squeaking that dougbgt6 mentions; it's surprisingly loud but it does cease after a while.  There is a silicone lubricant that comes with most polybushes and I think I may been a bit sparing with this, as I have heard that a liberal application of this stuff goes some way to prevent the squeak.  Let us know how you get on.

 

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another vote for club shop Gaz. Great improvement, very pleased with them. I got the non-adjustable. There IS a stiffness adjustment but you don't get the adjustable spring plate, I'm not going racing so didn't fancy it, If that makes sense. Strangely the front came with rubber bushes and the rear with poly bushes, and no silicon lubricant!   :huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another vote for club shop Gaz. Great improvement, very pleased with them. I got the non-adjustable. There IS a stiffness adjustment but you don't get the adjustable spring plate, I'm not going racing so didn't fancy it, If that makes sense. Strangely the front came with rubber bushes and the rear with poly bushes, and no silicon lubricant!   :huh:

Hi Doug, the non adjustable sounds what im looking for - Is this the set I need ( see pic ) Plus do you get the bolts in the kit 

 

Regards

Paul 

post-1431-0-04979400-1473771079_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul.

 

Have a look at Rimmers RG1306GAZ, which is the same as the Club Shop (CS) - not sure where the CS gets the idea that they only can supply the correct GAZ shocks etc !! The units I have got are identical and never had a problem.

 

The Rimmers code lists what you get in full; I do agree that Rimmers is £1 more expensive but depends what the p&p is compared between the 2x suppliers. I have not checked Canleys website, so worth looking at that. 

 

If you are going to the NEC then Rimmers will take the kit to the show and that may be the same for the CS.

 

To be honest, I'd go for the adjustable units which gives you a wide range of driving settings (good fun experimenting) and you do not have to be a racing driver to benefit from this conversion. 

 

Just my thoughts.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul.

 

Have a look at Rimmers RG1306GAZ, which is the same as the Club Shop (CS) - not sure where the CS gets the idea that they only can supply the correct GAZ shocks etc !! The units I have got are identical and never had a problem.

 

The Rimmers code lists what you get in full; I do agree that Rimmers is £1 more expensive but depends what the p&p is compared between the 2x suppliers. I have not checked Canleys website, so worth looking at that. 

 

If you are going to the NEC then Rimmers will take the kit to the show and that may be the same for the CS.

 

To be honest, I'd go for the adjustable units which gives you a wide range of driving settings (good fun experimenting) and you do not have to be a racing driver to benefit from this conversion. 

 

Just my thoughts.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

Hi Richard , thanks for update , the rimmers non adjustable looks like the best option as have stand shocks on the front
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just fitted the new universal joint but forgot to assemble as they came off, I had file marked the yoke and shaft . Should I leave as is or remove the one side and reassemble so the marks line up .

 

I purchased the GKN universal joint with grease nipple , though it fouls , see pic. Can I purchase shorter or replace with surface mounted screw

 

All advice welcomed

Paul

post-1431-0-74447300-1474124843_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...