ian.osprey Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Copying my post from the TSSC face book page Some questions on Herald doors. I have searched the forum and not found any answers.1) inner and outer weather seals. Is the outer seal one continuous length from front to back? It looks like it from the diagram, and the one I removed did, but it didn't really fit well.2) dismantling the quarter light there was a separate, very rusty, metal seal/filler on the inside. A very skinny 'p' that might have been chromed at the top. I don't see this on the parts diagram. Any ideas?3) How does the quarter light dismantle? I feel as though the sprung shaft is going to break trying to take it apart. Does the glass just pull out or does the lock go though it? As always, all responses greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 you dont need to remove the NDV frame to fit the inner or outer seals, it can be a bit tight but it will press in place the p section chromed top is the inner seal with just a fuzzy felt to touch the glass, the outer has the lip edge and may need a little trimming at the vertical frame area, its a one piece full length of the door nothing stopping you making it a two piece many do . the green clips are best for retaining the outer , inner are from memory a bit tinner get the correct ones from Bill at rarebits4classics it pays to undo the top NDV fixing bracket one on front edge and one behind the door cardscrew to give some small amount of clearance you dont need to remove the vent assy. always tie a cotton to the clips so you can retrieve them when they fly off make a suitable hook hold and lift the clip. feed it in from the rear end of the door then with 6 pairs of hands pull clip up push seal down and i suggest a bit of soft drift the lightly tap the seal down whilst pulling clip up then it seats fully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Outer seal one length. P chrome finisher 613343 think no longer available and rare second hand. Glass is just a push fit, but be very careful pulling it out, lubricate rubbers well putting it back. Think I used washing up liquid though this contains salt to thicken it I believe. Bit late again. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian.osprey Posted September 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Thanks Gents. I can guess what bit of the door the NDV is, but what does the acronym stand for? I have removed the NDV's 1) to try to tighten up the inner frame. It automatically closes at anything over 20mph!! However it's rusted solid. 2) one inner frame is rusted through on the bottom corner, so need to repair that. regards Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Sorry NDV its 1970s jargon, stands for no draft vent (this being the opening quarter light) The lock sits thro a cutout in the glass nothing isnglued its all a press fit assembled with often soft soap by girls on the line used a lever frame to compress the glass and rubber into the contoured support ed light framework if the nut under the spring is seized leave it in soak tale it carefull itncan shear the post off. Pete two shreaded wheat and its done Hmmmm ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian.osprey Posted September 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Thanks Pete The post has been soaked and heated, soaked and heated, soaked and heated, (you get the picture). No luck yet. I have a spare NDV (I can talk the talk now ) that I'm experimenting with, which I've already sheared the post off . I can repair it, if I can only get the brass spacer off.... Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 they are problematic in a poor environment and not greased , get a lot of rain drain , and now they are .......time for a scotch and much swearing Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian.osprey Posted September 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Right! I have patched the moving frame Substituted a 4mm screw and nut for the top rivet. This works, but even when I trim it, it's not an elegant solution. Any other ideas? The rivet is listed NA. I have welded a sawn off bolt onto what was left of the pivot, after removing the brass sleeve. I am pleased with the way it's turned out. This was meant to be a practise, but will probably get used. Does anyone know if the window lock can be dismantled? Mine turns OK and clicks when moved to the in the shut position, but doesn't lock. Pivot on the second frame is broken inside the frame. Need to think about that. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 I used a small setscrew and a domed nut to relace the top pivot rivet, reasonably neat the locking handle is often held in with a pin , needs tapping out and the lever handle detaches from the spindle , the lock button is probably all a bit worn and bent pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian.osprey Posted September 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Cheers Pete. Didn't see a pin, but then, my garage glasses are 2 prescriptions old. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 23, 2016 Report Share Posted September 23, 2016 Think there are two manufactures of these so you glasses might be right dont forget you have to fit the rubber before you refit the top pivot , so dont find a a rivet or make a fancy replacement , with the rubber surround sitting on the bench unless you chop the rubber to fit afterwards pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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