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Spraying DIY


Paul H
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Hi , Newbie  question . At some stage need to respray my Vitesse Saloon , The Club sells aerosols , are these a practical solution to achieving a reasonable finish ? To cost the exercise roughly how may cans would be needed to undercoat & top coat .

 

Any input welcomed 

 

Regards

Paul 

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It would be much better yo borrow or even buy a compressor and spraygun.

 

Cans are ok, but getting enough paint on and an even finish over the hole car is not going to be easy or cheap!

You cab buy a lite of cellulose for about £25? and I reckon a minimum of 3 litres of colour, probably similar of primer (depends on what you are painting)

 

That 3L is probably 30 cans of aerosol (they contain thinned paint, and propellant as well as the paint)

 

Have a look on the mig welding forum, there is a good section on spraying....

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Hello Paul.

 

There was a similar thread not so long ago titled: Spraying at home

 

Some very useful points contained therein and I also added some help on it as well.

 

Worth reading for info.

 

Good luck.

 

Richard.

 

PS: fuel pipe photos tomorrow.

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Assumingno welding or serious remidial work is required, prices would start at about 1k for a cheapish blowover, up to lots and lots for a concours type job.

 

DIY materials likely to be £200-300 for materials. (paint, primer, thinners, gunwash, filler, stopper, abrasives, masking materials, panel wipe, tack rags etc)

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Club shop paint supplies are good value , the are selling loads of it .

 

said elswhere if you want a presentable cheap finish we painted a mini with

japlac and brush and roller ,, a little thinning to improve the roller orange peel

Done in a hour or two.

it shines and lasted 5 years for just a few ££s

 

just an idea

 

I agree on the hvlp route , you can get a lot of covereage and less overspray

 

Quite easliy

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HVLP is what Steve has correctly said as High Volume Low Presseure - not high pressure low volume as mentioned later !!

 

A little tongue twister.

 

Or try this one: Ken Dodd's Dad's Dog is Dead :blink: 

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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In the Area Directory section, under East Berks is a picture of  "Trevor and his lovely Herald". Trevor sprayed this car by hand and, as I understand it, an air compressor wasn't involved. Trevor used to attend local shows with the car, his spraying equipment and an explanatory documentation as to how it was done. 

 

I can tell you that the car and it's paint job is immaculate and you can't tell it's not professionally done.

 

The car is now owned by Julie Hazell from Thames area, she, and husband Mickey, regularly take Trevor out on trips to shows in his old car.

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Il  stick to using a roller  !!!!

 

remember the kit to add to your vacuum cleaner  air output,  used one to spray bits of my 59 herald back in the 60s

 

link to solve the problems of typing

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spray_painting#HVLP_.28High_Volume_Low_Pressure.29

 

 

 

Pete

but from using a H**p  many years ago they are more a fan driven air system 10psi and will spray quite thick paint  without swaves of overspray

 

a compressor supplied gun uses much higher air pressure  40psi but less air volume but as you use the air to atomise the paint it goes everywhere in comparison

 

but this may be clouded by the years of inactivity with paint ,  

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And as a further contribution to this thread, on painting for beginners, as one who painted his own car due to being skint at the time:  

 

The essence of a DIY spray job is to remember that the pros are working in a purpose-built environment, with expensive kit, and are doing it all day, every day, you are not, so allow for this in your approach. 

 

Get  the surface as smooth as possible before painting, and then (if your gun will handle it, and not all will) a good few coats of primer-filler to aid in covering the inevitable imperfections, and lots of sanding back to as smooth as you can get it before applying colour. Colour coats act like a magnifying glass on any imperfections, and some colours, like black, seem to emphasise them all the more. Si

 

On the colour coats, pay extra attention to edges, and build up a good thickness of paint, and allow a good week to dry rock hard. A good coating  allows for cutting back the inevitable runs and areas of orange peel  that will happen.

 

When they do, wet sand it the finest paper you can find, using a block on any runs - what the pro's call colour sanding. You will be surprised at what you can smooth out with patience if you have enough paint on there, but go slowly - you don't want to cut through to the primer and end up re-doing the whole panel.  

 

Then cut it a small area at a time. A favourite old coach painter's dodge of mine is to use Brasso, and work in small squares, sealing in the shine with wax as I go. It is available in the local supermarket and is cheaper than Faracla, and works well on amateur paint jobs,

 

Above all, do your best and don't beat yourself up if you don't achieve perfection. The pro's didn't the first time they painted a car either. You can always revisit an individual panel or area later.

 

For a low-value car, hand-painting is an option, and some colour sanding and cutting back will improve the finish no end.

 

Good luck!

 

Steve

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