Jump to content

Master cylinder kit


Ray H
 Share

Recommended Posts

Although the brakes work very well on my Vitesse, there appears to be a slight leak from the master seals as the pedal is always damp with brake fluid. The cylinder was brand new some years ago. Where can I get a service kit for the master cylinder? Regards, Ray. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to disagree Andrew. I have re-rubbered lots of cylinders over the years, without problems. As long as the bore is clean and without any scoring it is a lot cheaper than a new cylinder (and Rayhills was new to him). I would also rather re-rubber a Girling original part than use something repro from the far east which is probably out of spec and made down to a price.

 

regards

 

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Steve C; there is nothing wrong in re-rubbering your old cylinder.  I have done it in the past but just recently I fitted a new rear brake cylinder (as I needed to the job in a hurry and the part was available quickly) but I did not throw out the old Girling cylinder as it seemed so much better than the new one.  The new one is fine and got it through the MOT but I can see that a longer-term solution will probably be the re-built original.

 

Tom 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I partly agree. Used a kit on brake M//C 4 years ago and still fine.

 

On clutch M/C, I was fitting new seals too often, due to small leak. The bore was smooth, but maybe it had worn out of spec (clutch piston travels further and used more often?). Mine is always black fluid in reservoir, some say this is the aluminium wearing?.

 

Dave 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from my experience its more likely to be rubber 

 

,   but never thought about alloy content  , 

       but you're   right about travel,  most would check for smooth and sound ,, not many have a bore gauge in the cupboard to check for ovality  from thrust or bore          wear

      Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you to all who have replied to my post. I have ordered a seal from Canleys. Hopefully this will be of decent quality. The cylinder itself is bright and shiny and Girling, which swung my decision. A good idea would be to tidy up the bulkhead at the time,-- good suggestion. I won't have to worry about the brake fluid issue as I have used silicone fluid since rebuilding the car 30 years ago. The first filling lasted 16 years!!! Cheers, Ray.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I've got a Girling brake MC that I want to refurbish and then re-fit - It looks to be in good condition with no obvious wear. I've removed the circlip but can't get the assembly out - I've tried tapping the casing, heating it, lubricating the inner bore with brake fluid but nothing seems to work. One thing I have noticed is that if I push the plunger completely in it doesn't immediately spring back but instead takes quite a while for it to return to the edge of the casing - does this indicate a bigger problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Robin - I had the same issue - If you add a grease nipple to the bleed valve thread and pump in grease using a Wanner type grease gun it will free up - im told the Wanner gun reaches 2000 psi or something incredible - You will need to hold on the MC cap or it will blow off - I used a cutup inner tube wrapping it around the MC cap holding the inner tubing in place with tape . It took a few minutes to release the piston and the MC cap will start to move as pressure builds up - Im told there could be a bang when the piston releases - This didnt happen in my case though held in a vice to be safe - Once out you will have a lot of grease to remove but it works 

Hope this helps 

Paul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

H

 

Hi Robin - I had the same issue - If you add a grease nipple to the bleed valve thread and pump in grease using a Wanner type grease gun it will free up - im told the Wanner gun reaches 2000 psi or something incredible - You will need to hold on the MC cap or it will blow off - I used a cutup inner tube wrapping it around the MC cap holding the inner tubing in place with tape . It took a few minutes to release the piston and the MC cap will start to move as pressure builds up - Im told there could be a bang when the piston releases - This didnt happen in my case though held in a vice to be safe - Once out you will have a lot of grease to remove but it works 

Hope this helps 

Paul 

Hi Paul

 

Sounds like fun!

 

What did you use to clean out the grease afterwards?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

H

 

Hi Paul

 

Sounds like fun!

 

What did you use to clean out the grease afterwards?

The bulk was removed with a small scraper then tissue then boiled it in a solution of degreaser ( high % of degreaser )

 

Paul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As an alternative to the greasgun  method, I have an old plastic 0625 M/C I connect to the one I am working on, then fill it with fluid and shove the actuator in manually on the bench. It usually frees off the piston. Put plenty of old newspapaer down on the bench and wear PPE. If the piston is not actually seized from standing for years, it is usually a ring of grease and muck at the limit of the piston's travel that is holding them in.

 

Regards

 

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As an alternative to the greasgun  method, I have an old plastic 0625 M/C I connect to the one I am working on, then fill it with fluid and shove the actuator in manually on the bench. It usually frees off the piston. Put plenty of old newspapaer down on the bench and wear PPE. If the piston is not actually seized from standing for years, it is usually a ring of grease and muck at the limit of the piston's travel that is holding them in.

 

Regards

 

Steve

Hi Steve

 

How did you connect the two MCs together? Also, I'm assuming you fill the 'spare' MC with the fluid not the one which has the stuck piston?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you will get vastly more pressure from a wanner than you can from a tandem'd up pair of  M  Cyl. and far more than any foot pump or compressed airline .

 

if you have neither a really really hard tap on a solid  bench top will normally persuade the inner to become an outer.

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...