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Spacer & Shims - Rear Bearings Vitesse MK2


Paul H
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New Ujs & Doughnuts fitted 

 

Trying to get my head around the best way to reassemble the rear bearings on my vitesse mk2 

 

The WSM shows the correct way with every specialist tool which i havent got - I do have hydraulic bearing pullers which enabled me to strip down + I do have access to a press.

 

When I stripped down the rear axle there were no shims and the spacer was hard up against the Spacer See PIC  To me this is not correct as the manual shows the spacer at the "wheel" end. Both sides were assembled the same way - one with .146 spacer & the other .148 spacer but no shims on either - I did notice the main half shaft nut came off very easily 

 

Once I know where the spacer fits im looking for a DIY guide to reassembly - are there any tutorials / videos around to assist 

 

Thanks in advance 

 

Paul 

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This is a copy and paste from the Canley classics website which should help:-

 

Note 4

Replacement wheel bearings should be re-shimmed to give the correct end float/preload. In most cases replacing the equivalent shims and spacers from the old unit will give an acceptable result but if the hub has been replaced or the unit assembled from parts, then the following procedure should be followed. Fit bearing cups into vertical link. Fit outer race and outer shell into vertical link. Fit hub making sure it is fully down. Fit inner race. Put spacer and shims in place - measure across bearing inner race with straight edge and feeler gauge such that the hub and shims are 0.001 - 0.002 higher than an inner bearing race. Fit outer axle shaft fully home and tighten nut to 90ft/lb. You should feel VERY slight play - if you can feel end float, reduce shims - if preload, increase shims. When correct, take apart, grease and fit inner seal.

One final word of warning, don't assume that every garage (even classic car specialists) is capable of rebuilding roto wheel bearings. We have seen some shocking bodges over the years carried out on customers stuff brought into us after recent work by 'professionals'.  You need to assertain that who ever  you trust your rotoflex with has a proven track record with the stuff, is regularly practised in the art, and has a ready stock of shims/spacers, etc before he attacks it.

You have been warned!

I believe shims are available but can't remember where from :wacko:

 

The spacer on your photo is in the correct position and the shims fit over the top of this as far as I can recall 

 

You say the half shaft nut came off easily, make sure the threads on the shaft are in good condition (Can't tell for sure but they look a bit iffy on the photo?) the nut needs to be torqued up to 90 lbs/ft!

 

Gary

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This is a copy and paste from the Canley classics website which should help:-

 

Note 4

Replacement wheel bearings should be re-shimmed to give the correct end float/preload. In most cases replacing the equivalent shims and spacers from the old unit will give an acceptable result but if the hub has been replaced or the unit assembled from parts, then the following procedure should be followed. Fit bearing cups into vertical link. Fit outer race and outer shell into vertical link. Fit hub making sure it is fully down. Fit inner race. Put spacer and shims in place - measure across bearing inner race with straight edge and feeler gauge such that the hub and shims are 0.001 - 0.002 higher than an inner bearing race. Fit outer axle shaft fully home and tighten nut to 90ft/lb. You should feel VERY slight play - if you can feel end float, reduce shims - if preload, increase shims. When correct, take apart, grease and fit inner seal.

One final word of warning, don't assume that every garage (even classic car specialists) is capable of rebuilding roto wheel bearings. We have seen some shocking bodges over the years carried out on customers stuff brought into us after recent work by 'professionals'.  You need to assertain that who ever  you trust your rotoflex with has a proven track record with the stuff, is regularly practised in the art, and has a ready stock of shims/spacers, etc before he attacks it.

You have been warned!

I believe shims are available but can't remember where from :wacko:

 

The spacer on your photo is in the correct position and the shims fit over the top of this as far as I can recall 

 

You say the half shaft nut came off easily, make sure the threads on the shaft are in good condition (Can't tell for sure but they look a bit iffy on the photo?) the nut needs to be torqued up to 100 lbs/ft!

 

Gary

Hi Gary - thanks for the link . Checked the threads are ok - I purchased new half shaft nuts for reassembly 

 

Regards

Paul 

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Update . I have followed Canleys advice and removed the oil seals and reassembled - I have measured the distance from the  inner bearing race down to the top of the outer axle shaft and the depth is 0.165 ins - the spacer provided  is 0.148. This leaves a space of  0.017 or 6 shims ( based on .003 per shim ) . Canleys suggests the shims should be 1 to 2 thou proud of the inner bearing race .

 

All I am doing is reassembling the old unit and there was a spacer 0.148 ins but no shims which meant the inner bearing race could have moved up the shaft wrecking the drive shaft. Am I correct in this assumption ?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Paul 

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There are obviously more knowledgeable people here, but my pennies worth is

 

I didn't have shims on my rotoflex either, just a spacer. If I'm correct the shims are just used to adjust subtly variations in the manufacturing as there were also a number of different sized spacers.  I needed to add shims when I did my CV conversion but as that was an effectively new driveshaft that was to be expected. I believe generally what came off should go back on with rebuilds using old components. 

 

Have you torqued up the rear hub nut to the full 110 lbs to bed everything in? As based on your measurements at full torque the wheel would be locked solid.

 

When you disassembled was your hub nut loose at all?

 

Cheers

 

Adrian

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There are obviously more knowledgeable people here, but my pennies worth is

 

I didn't have shims on my rotoflex either, just a spacer. If I'm correct the shims are just used to adjust subtly variations in the manufacturing as there were also a number of different sized spacers.  I needed to add shims when I did my CV conversion but as that was an effectively new driveshaft that was to be expected. I believe generally what came off should go back on with rebuilds using old components. 

 

Have you torqued up the rear hub nut to the full 110 lbs to bed everything in? As based on your measurements at full torque the wheel would be locked solid.

 

When you disassembled was your hub nut loose at all?

 

Cheers

 

Adrian

Hi Adrian , the nuts werent loose though certainly were not 110 . My vitesse was a rebuild in 2012 and its difficult to know what parts were original or new.  Since 2012 my Vitesse has only done a few hundred miles so very cautious about the work done as there are incidences where the work done wasnt up to spec . With the current setup the spacer doesnt take up the space between drive shaft and top of the bearing so in effect the bearing could slide out along the shaft - Thats the logic im applying 

Regards

Paul 

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Hi Paul

 

If I've got this right, because you have the 0.017 space and no end float at all, once you tighten up the hub nut your wheels won't go round and if driven will probably over heat the bearings very quickly amongst doing other damage. If you have measured correctly the addition of shims to achieve the 1-2 thou end float will allow you to pinch up to full torque without loading the bearings. Definitely one job I didn't enjoy!

 

Leacy classics do a 5 and 10 thou shim if you want to cut down the number you use. Just double check the part as they do many more shims for other applications. You might find a bigger spacer as well.

 

Cheers

 

Adrian

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Hi Paul

 

If I've got this right, because you have the 0.017 space and no end float at all, once you tighten up the hub nut your wheels won't go round and if driven will probably over heat the bearings very quickly amongst doing other damage. If you have measured correctly the addition of shims to achieve the 1-2 thou end float will allow you to pinch up to full torque without loading the bearings. Definitely one job I didn't enjoy!

 

Leacy classics do a 5 and 10 thou shim if you want to cut down the number you use. Just double check the part as they do many more shims for other applications. You might find a bigger spacer as well.

 

Cheers

 

Adrian

Hi Adrian - Thanks for info -  Yes I have to fill the 0.17 space + 2 thou .  I didnt realise you could get 5 & 10 though shims - This will help - I manage to buy from ebay 0.155 shims and this had reduced the space - Appreciate your input 

 

Regards 

Paul 

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Hi Paul

 

If I've got this right, because you have the 0.017 space and no end float at all, once you tighten up the hub nut your wheels won't go round and if driven will probably over heat the bearings very quickly amongst doing other damage. If you have measured correctly the addition of shims to achieve the 1-2 thou end float will allow you to pinch up to full torque without loading the bearings. Definitely one job I didn't enjoy!

 

Leacy classics do a 5 and 10 thou shim if you want to cut down the number you use. Just double check the part as they do many more shims for other applications. You might find a bigger spacer as well.

 

Cheers

 

Adrian

Hi Adrian - couldnt find a direct reference to Vitesse though GT6 mentioned - are these the ones I need 

 

Best regards

 

Paul 

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I'm no expert on Rotoflex rebuilds either, but what your stating above seems correct to me.

 

When its all fully assembled and greased, with the wheels/tyres back on the car you should be able to rock the wheel by a very tiny amount.

 

If you assemble without the correct shims and there is too much pre-load it will ruin the bearings in a short space of time :(

 

PS - Not sure if those Leacy Classics shims are correct?     

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I'm no expert on Rotoflex rebuilds either, but what your stating above seems correct to me.

 

When its all fully assembled and greased, with the wheels/tyres back on the car you should be able to rock the wheel by a very tiny amount.

 

If you assemble without the correct shims and there is too much pre-load it will ruin the bearings in a short space of time :(

 

PS - Not sure if those Leacy Classics shims are correct?     

Hi Gary, thanks for your input - Pretty sure when the rebuild took place in 2012 the end nuts were tightened enough just to prevent preload and because there werent enough shims torquing to 100 lbs / ft would have caused preload and damaged the bearings - Im changing the bearings just in case though they seem ok but as I only want to do the job once have opted for new bearings from canleys . Ill let you know about the Leacy shims, the part numbers suggested they were correct .

 

Thanks again 

 

Paul 

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I think those are what I had, I could look up the receipt if you like for the ones I got. Should have said mine was for the gt6 but if I'm not mistaken they use the same components. I can measure my unused ones as a check if you like

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I think those are what I had, I could look up the receipt if you like for the ones I got. Should have said mine was for the gt6 but if I'm not mistaken they use the same components. I can measure my unused ones as a check if you like

Hi Adrian , the part nos tie up and with the gt6 link worth the risk

Regards

Paul

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Hi Adrian - Thanks for info -  Yes I have to fill the 0.17 space + 2 thou .  I didnt realise you could get 5 & 10 though shims - This will help - I manage to buy from ebay 0.155 shims and this had reduced the space - Appreciate your input 

 

Regards 

Paul 

Quick note - the ebay 0.155 shims didnt fit the internal diameter was too small - seller agreed to a refund 

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