Clutch drag

[Vit6iw]

I've changed the clutch on my Vit6 but am having problems with clutch drag. I can't engage first when the engine is running. If I engage first and then start the engine the car doesn't creep forward. When I depress the clutch pedal it doesn't touch the floor but the throw-out arm does touch the bell-housing which suggests that the throw-out arm is bent (unlikely). I did inspect it when I stripped it down and it looked as new but there again I didn't have anything to compare it with.

 

I didn't have this problem with the previous clutch. It's a NOS coil spring clutch cover and friction plate.

 

Has anyone got any suggestions as to what the problem is please?

 

[Pete Lewis]

many throwout bearings are only 15mm thick the orig is 19mm, this upsets the arm position.  the only solution ive used is to pack the spherical post with a couple of washers under  it, its a light press fit in the alloy hsg,

also dimples worn it the throw out grooves, and worn pins ,  

replaced my pins with a  welded in clevis pin  then cut to length, reposition the wear point by moving the anti rotation  roll pin

 

some levers actually puncture through where  the spherical sits.

 

Pete

[Pete Lewis]

One thing I forgot

 

if they have supplied a diaphragm disc its thinner so that would also contribute to a poor lever action position

 

diaphragm disc nipped in a vice 0.305"

Coil spring disc nipped 0.33"

 

Also if some previous work has fitted 2 ltr diaphragm throwout carrier then there is a big difference in its length compared to the coil cover carrier

 

pete

Pete

[Vit6iw]

Thanks for the reply Pete.

 

You have confirmed what has been going through my mind.  I didn't actually compare the new bearing with the old when I got it, it looked the same so I never gave it a second thought.  This could very well be the cause of my problem as I'm of the opinion that something has changed dimensionally meaning that the throwout arm is in the wrong position.

 

The friction plate and clutch housing are NOS so I didn't think that they could be at fault but the bearing is a remade one.  I had thought that putting washers under the pivot pin would move it to the correct position but wasn't sure about doing it.  The other thought was to make a new bearing carrier to move the release bearing closer to the clutch cover.

 

I think I should be able to remove the pivot pin without removing the gearbox then put some washers in to make up the 4mm.  Or make up a 4mm thick plug of the correct diameter.  It'll have to be mild steel so that if I drop it into the bellhousing I can retrieve it with a magnet.

 

Cheers.

 

Denis

[Pete Lewis]

I had a feeling this was you dennis,  how are you keeping,

 

 

its a challenge to get the post out 'on car' the lever wont come out through the aperture , ( make it bigger ?? )

 

you can unhook it from the spherical but thats about all unless you open the doorway 

 

the post should prise out with some decent pliers.

 

4mm on the post is a bit much it may not locate enough to hold it  but 2mm in the centre will give you 4 mm difference either end  i think)

theres some see- saw rules about somewhere.

it has to be stable   a clutch standard( pedestal) takes a good load in their life 

 

i used two flat washers on one that worked ok.

 

the bearing thickness problem is common to all 1600/2ltr  models with this throw out .

[Vit6iw]

Yes it is me Pete.  I'm fine thanks.

 

I've pulled the pivot out of its housing to mic it up, 0.74" o/d (I couldn't find my metric mic) which is 18.8mm.  A 5/16" UNF plain washer is 0.625" (15.9mm) o/d and 0.72" (1.83mm) thick or an M8 washer is 17mm o/d and 1.6mm nominal thickness.

 

I reckon I'll try two M8 washers and see how that goes.

 

I know what you mean about the leverage, moving the pivot point out 3.2mm should provide sufficient movement to free the clutch plate.

 

Another way to get round it would be to make a 4mm thick annular disc to fit between the bearing and its carrier but the gearbox would have to come out.

 

Thanks again.

 

Denis

[Pete Lewis]

Let us know it it works

 

pete

[Vit6iw]

Yesterday I placed two M8 washers under the pivot pin (total thickness 3.2mm) and I can now engage first and reverse.  Problem solved!

 

I tied them together with dental tape so they could be retrieved if they fell into the bellhousing.  It was a good job I did this as they did slip out a couple of times, it was difficult getting the pivot pin back into its housing.

 

The good thing about it is that I didn't have to take the gearbox out.

 

I went out for a drive and as the car got hot I was experiencing a bit of clutch judder.  I hope it won't get worse.

 

Cheers Pete.

 

Denis

[Pete Lewis]

pleased it solved the geometry problem .

 

as a new clutch it may need a decent torque slip, to condition the new /old stock linning

dont get it to smoke but a bit of  a pong is ok.,  thats high gear  feather the clutch and  wind the revs up  let the slip take the torque  do it a couple of times  , drive steady to cool it down   

 

trouble with old stock its been handled dropped and humped around a lot the face plate and setting can get upset .

 

if it continues you need to check for runout on the  coil cover  thrust pad    Grrr!!

 

Pete

[Vit6iw]

It started off alright and only began to judder when it was hot.  I was doing a lot of slow driving in traffic queues.

 

I'm hoping that it's just because it's new and will settle down with a bit of use.

 

I'm not panicking yet!

 

Denis