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Fuse box Replacement


AidanT

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Small hoops of wire is fine in this application. I’ve not looked to see what size the incoming wires are to the fuse box but I bet it’s not much more than 2mm. So just use the same size wiring for the loops and it will be fine. (As in current carrying capacity )

soldered joint to the lucar connectors are not a good idea either as they tend to fail after a time. Just a decent crimp is fine. 

 

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I've ordered and had it delivered a new fuse box as above - looks a good bit of kit to be fair - except the spare connections were slightly bent in a couple of cases - but no sign of damage to the box - just the bag it was in.

They have straightened out again ok, os not a big issue.

Just got to find some time to fit it!

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On 5/21/2017 at 6:24 PM, AidanT said:

 Why? well to start with the three glass fuses rated @ 35A each doesn't really do much

 

Mine don't do anything either, which is the way I like it.

I had thought of replacing them with three blade fuses, but will wait to see if it's actually required.

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Hi Colin

I think I mentioned this before, but the older your loom, the more potential it has to short and fail as the covering does become brittle. Running  even 16 amps though old style and aged cable is a risk to me, you never know what previous owners have done or why!

Aidan

 

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Aidan,

Belated congratulations! Good job. Also the PDF sheet is very useful, but, did you allow for the wiper motor? :o

A while back one of the guys on here did an extensive fuse box upgrade with dozens of fuses, and loom modification. A bridge too far for me, I think yours is the way to go. Difficult to find a box with the connectors coming out the back,  so I've just taken delivery of the identical fuse box to yours. They no longer seem to advertise on Ebay so had to buy direct. 

I already have the headlights on separate fuses and relays as the standard set up has all the current going through the headlamp switch unfused!

Doug

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Ha. Just went over to Adrians at the weekend  to have a chat about electrics in general and he has purchased the same box to ( I should have asked for a commission :lol:)  

As to your point on the wiper motor I really need to check which fuse it's on  I have not had a fuse blow though so it would suggest I added the appropriate amperage for the circuit.  I will take a look and come back to you 

Aidan 

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Aidan,

The wiper is on the same fuse as the heater fan motor. On that circuit you've a 10 amp fuse with 3.5 amps going through it (?) Wiper draws 2 to 4 amps(?) So 7.5 amps in total, I guess 10amp fuse would do, maybe up it to15?

But, as I never take the car out in the rain it doesn't really matter! :lol:

Also found this http://ccts-inc.com/SPITFIRE/Spitfire Electrical.htm

Now that really is going to town!

Doug

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Hmm best to use the KISS principle as with everything!

I didn't go down the route of working my way through from the smallest fuse up until it stopped blowing! I just added the amperage up and added a tad! 

I ran all the electrics in a test for 20 minutes so I would agree I might have over egged it a bit but it has to be better than 17amp continuous and 35 spike!

Aidan

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There is nothing wrong with 17A and 35A blow - that is how fuses work! The more over the 17A the draw is, then the quicker it will blow - you run 25A for example long enough and the fuse will pop.  The smallest cable will be something like a 1mm - so that will take 17A continuous all day long. And more for short periods - its just gets hot! 

To put it into context, the MEB used to work on a house taking on average 30A (Or some such figure) and sized the cable to you house to suit. On a Sunday when you are cooking your roast, the draw is probably nearer 70A at times. All that happens is the cable gets warm. Yes its technically overloaded, but it cools down again.

Now, I don't know how modern houses are sized these days - but I would guess it would be the same principle, just a higher average current!

 

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4 hours ago, Spitfire6 said:

Hi,

 Do you roast whole sheep or pigs in your oven? LOL

 

Cheers,

Iain.

I wish I could get a sheep in our oven!

Well, just think about it - or even have a look. What is your incoming supply to the house fused at in your consumer unit? Probably 100A - but the cable to your house won't be that big as most of the time you won't pull anywhere near that current. 

But if you have economy 7 - they are about 3kW each - immersion heater - another 3-4kW - electric shower - 10kW. Cooker twin oven - probably 7kW.

Soon adds up.

As it happens I don't pull anything like that in our house - peak load in our house so far this year is 10.6Kw - and it was on a Sunday! But we don't have any of the above apart from cooker.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK. I just had a good look at the feeds to the fuse box. If I'm not mistaken the fuse order does not tally with the colours on the wiring diagram. Before going too far I just want to check what I have, is it a home made order, another form of wiring I haven't a copy of, etc.

So Bottom fuse on diagram =  Red Green from headlamp switch to 2 Red outputs. On my car this is the middle fuse and I have a third Red output (could this possibly be the instrument light or parking light spur shown after the fuse?)

Middle Fuse on diagram = Ignition live 3 White to 3 green outputs (wiper, flasher). On my car if I'm correct I have 1 yellow input and two green situated in the top location and no whites at all.

Top fuse on diagram = 1 brown feed and 3 purple out to hazard, horn, interior light, dip switch. On my car this seems to be correct but in the bottom position.

Now the 3 feeds - yellow, red green and brown are easily placed as is with loop spurs using piggyback spade connectors. So can the outputs adjacent to the appropriate feed BUT what is correct, where are the white wires? should I strip the loom cover off to see if there are any joints?  

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers

Adrian

IMG_1022.JPG

GT6MkIIIwiring.jpg

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Adrian,

It's a good diagram, I wouldn't be without it, but the fuses are miss named. On my car the diagram top fuse is the bottom fuse, the diagram middle fuse is the top fuse and the diagram bottom fuse is the middle fuse. I think that ties up with your findings? I've just written it in on the diagram. Once you do that everything makes sense! I see a white wire in your loom in the picture and a cut white wire on your top fuse which is where it should be.

Doug

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Yes that’s right the cut wire is my first cut of the yellow wire, not white. I can only assume that somewhere further up the loom the white wires are spliced or joined. It would be nice to know what’s what although could do this once everything is connected and test each fuse

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I think the yellow IS the white wire! :lol: I don't think there's are any yellow only wires in the loom? 

The diagrams show the ballast wire between the ignition switch and the coil, however it is quite common for the ballast wire to run from the ignition to the starter solenoid. In the same way the oil pressure lamp and ignition lamp feeds may come directly from the ignition switch rather than the top of the fuse.

Doug

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As a double check connect your multimeter between the yellow wire and the +ve battery lead. Measure the resistance with ignition off then on. It should change from 1 to 0

Thats rhe lead NOT the battery itself :lol:

Aidan

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My bad. It’s an aged white wire turned yellowish. All wired up with a spare live for the power socket I’ll fit in due course. Next is sorting the earths and putting the battery in. Then I’ll check the feeds!

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