daverclasper Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 4 hours ago, johny said: Must admit Im quite impressed with Triumphs 50 yr old electrics in general. On my car everything is original and Ive had very few electrical problems either with wiring or components. Same here. Had the car nearly 8 years and lives outside. Loom in was in good condition and I spray all the connections (apart from the ones under the dash that I can't reach easily) every 2 years with AC 50. Never broke down apart from 2 crap modern condensers, when I first got it. Used some NOS, rotor, points, condenser after that and been fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 17, 2023 Report Share Posted March 17, 2023 Finally getting round to fitting a fusebox in the 13/60. Power in is simple, this one uses a single power-in point and a bus bar to the six spade terminals. Seemed the simplest version for a Herald. All I need to do now is work out the required size of fuse for the circuits. Easiest will be overdrive, screen washer and radio, as these are not part of the existing loom. More difficult will be working out the white wires, four from the ignition switch but no idea of which one does what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted March 17, 2023 Report Share Posted March 17, 2023 Option 1 - Do the Maths Work out what all the fuses do and calculate the total expected load, then fuse appropreatly. Option 2 - The Lazy Way Even the most fused of our cars just had a block of 35A fuses, so just check a 35A in each slot. Option 3 - Suck It and See Grab a big selection box of blade fuses and shove the smallest ones in each slot, leaving the box in the car. Use the car and see what goes 'pop' under normal use, replacing the blown fuse with the next one up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted March 17, 2023 Report Share Posted March 17, 2023 N°3 sounds like the most fun N°1 is the option I would tell people I'd done N°2 is what I would actually have done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 17, 2023 Report Share Posted March 17, 2023 1 hour ago, Mjit said: Option 1 - Do the Maths Work out what all the fuses do and calculate the total expected load, then fuse appropreatly. Option 2 - The Lazy Way Even the most fused of our cars just had a block of 35A fuses, so just check a 35A in each slot. C'mon mate, it's ME you're talking to! I never do things simply, I need to know WHY HOW and all the WHAT IFs before I'll even start and even then I'm still paranoid. Heralds don't have any fuses at all (bar one on the headlamp flash) so I need to work out from the wiring which one is which. I think someone posted earlier that the ignition circuit isn't normally fused on any of our cars? That's what threw me otherwise it would have been one spade connector to one terminal on the fuse box, job done. If there are four white wires, two spade connectors, coming from the ignition switch, and the ignition circuit shouldn't be fused, then I'll need to know which ones do what and with the dashboard out completely I'll need to work out how to test. Just me overthinking things as usual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted March 17, 2023 Report Share Posted March 17, 2023 15 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: C'mon mate, it's ME you're talking to! I never do things simply, I need to know WHY HOW and all the WHAT IFs before I'll even start and even then I'm still paranoid. Heralds don't have any fuses at all (bar one on the headlamp flash) so I need to work out from the wiring which one is which. I think someone posted earlier that the ignition circuit isn't normally fused on any of our cars? That's what threw me otherwise it would have been one spade connector to one terminal on the fuse box, job done. If there are four white wires, two spade connectors, coming from the ignition switch, and the ignition circuit shouldn't be fused, then I'll need to know which ones do what and with the dashboard out completely I'll need to work out how to test. Just me overthinking things as usual. When you've done your's you can pop over and rewire my 13/60 and put a fuse box in. Looking at the state of the wiring behind the dash last week I could be living on borrowed time. Fire extinguisher is kept behind the driver's seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted March 17, 2023 Report Share Posted March 17, 2023 Pull one wire off at a time and see what stops working that’s what I did with the Vitesse with the wires out of the original fuse box. Supply wires into the fuse box were connected to the bus bar bolt. I fitted 2 of your 6 blade fused box’s on the Vitesse one each for ignition and battery systems to replace the original two 35 amp glass fuses in each case 3 of the new fuses were original circuits the other 3 were new extra accessory items. I was lucky the Vitesse originally had 2 fuses somewhere to start! What are you going to do about the existing battery supply circuits, interior lights, horn, and parking/number plate lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 17, 2023 Report Share Posted March 17, 2023 2 hours ago, Peter Truman said: What are you going to do about the existing battery supply circuits, interior lights, horn, and parking/number plate lights. None of those are presently fused at all. Can't test anything at present as dashboard out, writing hanging everywhere and battery disconnected. The original plan was to take power from the ignition switch to a fuse box for the ancillaries - overdrive, washer pump and possibly radio (not fitted yet) and leave all else as original. Then I started to think that with six terminals and six fuses I could add other bits from the circuit as well. Problem is: what, and how, given there are four white wires from two spade terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted March 17, 2023 Report Share Posted March 17, 2023 Hi, If I had " given there are four white wires from two spade terminals." ' I would use an eight + some extra fuses bank. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 17, 2023 Report Share Posted March 17, 2023 Colin, This is an old thread which I was party to, you may find amperage details of interest. d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 18, 2023 Report Share Posted March 18, 2023 (edited) 10 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: Colin, This is an old thread which I was party to, you may find amperage details of interest. d I know it's early morning but... that's a link to THIS thread... Read, devoured and left me thinking the only way to work it all out is to get it running again, without the main loom connected to the fuse box, then experiment once it's up and running. Unless: The intended plan was: power in via that single nut on the fusebox bus bar, using a ring terminal, from the double terminal on the ignition switch that has the two spades / four white cables. So ignition power in through the blue / brown cable, key turns, power out as usual but now via the fuse box instead of the four white cables. These two spades with the twin white cables go to two terminals of the fuse box, the other three intended ancillaries go to three of the remaining four. As long as the cable linking the ignition switch to the fuse box is of sufficient diameter then it should cope, as it's now taking the strain of four single white cables. If I reuse the same as the original feed to the ignition switch then it should be okay. Does that sound sensible? It's me thinking out loud but I'd rather make mistakes here than on the actual car.... Edited March 18, 2023 by Colin Lindsay Autocorrect!! I hate it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 18, 2023 Report Share Posted March 18, 2023 That sounds reasonable, Colin. If the (white) feed from the ignition switch to the fuse box big terminal is at least the same size as the brown (blue/brown?) wire from battery to ignition switch, then it should cope. The four white wires are over-spec in total. All the current flowing out of the switch must have flowed into the switch through the brown, so that's the size you need. Technically, of course, all the subsequent white wires from fuse box outlets should really be green, but we'll not worry about that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 18, 2023 Report Share Posted March 18, 2023 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: I know it's early morning but... that's a link to THIS thread... Yes, you seem to be going round in circles, I thought I'd help Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 18, 2023 Report Share Posted March 18, 2023 2 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: Yes, you seem to be going round in circles, I thought I'd help Doug He knows me so well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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