Vitesse Owner Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Trouble engaging reverse (Vitesse Mk 2), gear will only go in with much grinding. The car was out of use for 3-4 months earlier this year, and so I wondered if the clutch plate was sticking on the shaft. The trouble has been intermittent, after a little use the trouble righted itself, but now it's back with a vengeance and it is not possible to engage reverse, except by stopping the engine. What seems odd is that forward gears are normal. Does anyone recognise the problem? Vitesse Owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Caswell Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Either the clutch is dragging or the spigot bush has gone tight on the input shaft. So the lay gear is still spinning when you try to engage reverse which is a straight cut gear with no synchro . As a get by you could try engaging first or second to stop the input shaft then try selecting reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitesse Owner Posted May 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Either the clutch is dragging or the spigot bush has gone tight on the input shaft. So the lay gear is still spinning when you try to engage reverse which is a straight cut gear with no synchro . As a get by you could try engaging first or second to stop the input shaft then try selecting reverse. Hello Ben That sounds a logical explanation (but would spigot go tight?), may also explain why 1st needs some effort to engage. I will try 1st before reverse ASAP and let you know the result. Thank you Jeff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 and then go for clutch drag, there's a whole raft of where motion is lost with wear on the pedal clevis, seized pedal shafts, wear on the withdrawl lever and its pins poor slave bleeding , nipple must be at the top, then hydraulics to overhaul and on and on, then displaced cover diaphragm or distorted discs what ever,,, do the easy fixes first but hard 1st and crunching reverse is down to something is still rotating when it should be still Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Caswell Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 I had a Mk1 Ford Escort that seized its spigot bearing so tight that you could drive the car(well a van actually) with the clutch pressed to the floor. Had one hell of a job getting the gearbox off the back of the engine,had to use two lever bars and a lot of shredded wheat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 I've got this problem on the Spit. Car had new clutch on rebuild 3 years ago and has always dragged slightly since, but now seems to have got worse. Is there a quick fix ('Bodge') that will see the season out, then I can take gearbox out and make a proper job over the winter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Clutch clearing relies on the hydraulics and their controls pedals and rods actually depressing the diaphragm enough to release the disc and allow engagement, the fact is hard in first shows the synchro is baulking the engagement same as reverse crashing but it wont let you in , its a clutch problem, and will be anything from a simple bleed required to a distorted disc or broken diaphragm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 use 2 nd gear, its on the same cluster as rev dip clutch in 2nd, the go fer reverse, it,ll go in another sign ontop of wot Petes said, is too high an idle speed hence the need t, engage a gear, dip clutch, then rev M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Caswell Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Hope the centre plate is round the right way I've got this problem on the Spit. Car had new clutch on rebuild 3 years ago and has always dragged slightly since, but now seems to have got worse. Is there a quick fix ('Bodge') that will see the season out, then I can take gearbox out and make a proper job over the winter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Thanks for comments, Gear box out at earliest opportunity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 We await with baited breath time to hide pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 At long last taken gearbox out. What a struggle. Had to take bell housing off in car to get box out - can't see any other way out. 1) Clutch plate in correct way round - clearly marked fly wheel side. 2) Some crankshaft end float - must be near max acceptable - need to check further. 3) The probable the cause - lots of wear in the alu clutch release lever where bushes fit for thrust brg carrier. Also play in eye of slave cylinder push rod. I've just ordered a new (used) lever from Rimmers. New NLA. Might have a look at syncro whilst box is out so maybe a while before I know if I've cured fault Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 Sorry I seem to have hijacked this thread. Perhaps I should start a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 no we will find it watched a herald at sywell on saturday and the lost travel due to pedal clevis hole wear gave about 1.5" of lost pedal travel and when bleeding push the slave piston back inside the cyl as far as it will go to reduce any air tapping, this solves many a dragging clutch so bleed it off the housing and keep nipple uppermost , while its out thing about adding a brake flex hose to make a remote bleed fixed to the baulkhead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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