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Reverse Engagement


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Trouble engaging reverse (Vitesse Mk 2), gear will only go in with much grinding.

The car was out of use for 3-4 months earlier this year, and so I wondered if the

clutch plate was sticking on the shaft.

The trouble has been intermittent, after a little use the trouble righted itself, but now

it's back with a vengeance and it is not possible to engage reverse, except by

stopping the engine. What seems odd is that forward gears are normal.

 

Does anyone recognise the problem?

 

Vitesse Owner.

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Either the clutch is dragging or the spigot bush has gone tight on the input shaft.

 

So the lay gear is still spinning when you try to engage reverse which is a straight cut gear with no synchro .

 

As a get by you could try engaging first or second to stop the input shaft then try selecting reverse.

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Either the clutch is dragging or the spigot bush has gone tight on the input shaft.

 

So the lay gear is still spinning when you try to engage reverse which is a straight cut gear with no synchro .

 

As a get by you could try engaging first or second to stop the input shaft then try selecting reverse.

Hello Ben

That sounds a logical explanation (but would spigot go tight?), may also explain why 1st needs some effort to engage.

 I will try 1st before reverse ASAP and let you know the result.

 

Thank you

Jeff.

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and then go for clutch drag,  

 

there's a whole raft of where motion is lost   with wear on the pedal clevis, seized pedal shafts, wear on the withdrawl lever and its pins

poor slave bleeding , nipple must be at the top, then hydraulics to overhaul  and on and on, then displaced cover diaphragm or distorted discs

what ever,,,   do the easy fixes first

 

but hard 1st and crunching reverse is down to something is still rotating when it should be still

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I had a Mk1 Ford Escort that seized its spigot bearing so tight that you could drive the car(well a van actually) with the clutch pressed to the floor.

 

Had one hell of a job getting the gearbox off the back of the engine,had to use two lever bars and a lot of shredded wheat.

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  • 2 months later...

I've got this problem on the Spit.  Car had new clutch on rebuild 3 years ago and has always  dragged slightly since, but now seems to have got worse.

Is there a quick fix ('Bodge') that will see the season out, then I can take gearbox out and make a proper job over the winter?

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Clutch clearing relies on the hydraulics and their controls pedals and rods actually depressing the diaphragm enough to release the disc and allow engagement, the fact is hard in first shows the synchro

is baulking the engagement same as reverse crashing but it

wont let you in , its a clutch problem,

and will be anything from a simple bleed required to a distorted

disc or broken diaphragm

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use 2 nd gear, its on the same cluster as rev

dip clutch in 2nd, the go fer reverse, it,ll go in

 

another sign  ontop of wot Petes said, is too high an idle speed

hence the need t, engage a gear, dip clutch, then rev

 

M

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Hope the centre plate is round the right way

 

I've got this problem on the Spit.  Car had new clutch on rebuild 3 years ago and has always  dragged slightly since, but now seems to have got worse.

Is there a quick fix ('Bodge') that will see the season out, then I can take gearbox out and make a proper job over the winter?

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  • 1 month later...

At long last taken gearbox out. What a struggle. Had to take bell housing off in car to get box out - can't see any other way out.

1) Clutch plate in correct way round - clearly marked fly wheel side.

2) Some crankshaft end float - must be near max acceptable - need to check further.

3) The probable the cause - lots of wear in the alu clutch release lever where bushes fit for thrust brg carrier. Also play in eye of slave cylinder push rod.  I've just ordered a new (used) lever from Rimmers. New NLA.

Might have a look at syncro whilst box is  out so maybe a while before I know if I've cured fault

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no we will   find it  

watched a herald at sywell on saturday and the lost travel due to pedal clevis hole wear  gave about 1.5" of lost pedal travel 

and when bleeding push the slave piston back inside the cyl as far as it will go to reduce any air tapping, this solves many a dragging clutch

so bleed it off the housing  and keep nipple uppermost , while its out thing about adding a brake flex hose to make a remote bleed fixed to the baulkhead.

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