Engine out, insitu gasket installation or leave well alone

[Adrian]

Hi Chaps

 

As some of you are aware I've have a bit of a hiccup getting the car on the road in relation to the cooling system.

 

I have what appears to be two smallish oil leaks although capillary action may mean it is one. I know triumphs are renowned for it and the oil preserves the chassis but it does make a bit of a mess. One is the rocker box - easy enough. The second appears to be the sump gasket. As the engine is part stripped so should I try the in-situ lower gasket change as discussed on this and other forums?

 

Any suggestions regarding the manifold, its not blown but fairly pitted - paint it, leave it alone?

 

 

Thanks

 

Adrian

[Guest]

Adrian.

 

The exhaust manifold goes this way - unless it's cracked or another issue it will be fine for numerous years to come. They often look worse than they are and painting is a cosmetic touch.

 

I've not got a GT6 so cannot advise re the sump gasket.

 

I think it's now possible, via the club shop, to get a silicone rocker cover gasket or similar. Might even consider one for the Vitesse if the feedback is good on them.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

[AidanT]

Hi

 

The rocker cover gasket you need is the cork one. The silicone I understand is only for the alloy covers and does not fit the standard cover

 

A simple job to replace as you say I added some sealant to in a long bead which has helped to stop all my rocker cover oil leaks

 

I would also be interested in what others say about the sump gasket replacement I know it can be done with a bit of a fiddle without engine removal but it sounded a bit fiddly I wondered if there was a third way such as dropping the rack or whatever currently makes it such a fiddle

 

Aidan

[Pete Lewis]

Do check the sump bolts are nipped , its only 5lbft max it may need a light nip, the care is needed on the bridges over the mains being alloy , can have too longer bolts in which bottom out and strip

 

you can only use the club silicone rocker gaskets on alloy covers wont fit a tin cover

 

you can get the sump off if needed , lift the engine a bit and faff around till it drops off , rack off may help, theres the chassis you cant shift

can be easy or frustrating

 

 

snap aidan

 

 

 

pete

[dougbgt6]

I've had the GT6 sump off in situ 2 or 3 times. You disconnect drivers side engine mount, and jack up the engine on that side, having first opened the bonnet. (You don't want to push the rocker box into your power bulge  ) Then you wiggle the sump out.

 

The guy on here who did this recently said next time he'd take the engine out. Really It's a question of what facilities do you have? I didn't have engine lifting kit so I had no choice but if you have the equipment you might prefer to take it out.

 

If I had lifting kit now, I'd use it, my days crawling under the car are done. So it also depends on how old and decrepit you are!  

[AidanT]

Doug

 

What contact point did you use to lift the engine?

 

Mind you Ive not checked how tight the bolts actually are DOH!!!!

 

Aidan

[Pete Lewis]

You need to jack off the front pulley or similar

[Colin Lindsay]

You need to jack off the front pulley or similar

 

EH????

Do you mean raise the front of the engine slightly by using a jack under the front pulley? 

[Pete Lewis]

Well yes, theres little else left if you want the sump off unless you have a block and tackle or engine crane hiding in anice new garage !!!

[dougbgt6]

Tell 'em about your wooden cradle Pete.

[Colin Lindsay]

It was the phraseology rather than the method I was questioning...

[dougbgt6]

Ah, we did the jacking off joke in the other thread, still the good ones can bear repeating.

[Adrian]

Doug

 

I'm not too old yet (51 this year) but most definitely have a big portion of decrepit. I am low tech and haven't got a hoist - so its a jack. I know I read somewhere that the strainer can get in the way.

 

Once I'm happy I've reduced the oil leaks I intend to degrease and paint up - as it will be in situ I assume a brush rather than rattle can.

 

Thanks

[dougbgt6]

Adrian, might be worth replacing the aluminium bridging piece with a steel one, I think the club shop still sell them. Strangely the original has wooden packing pieces shims. Not sure if the steel one does?

[Pete Lewis]

yes wooden wedges used on both, 

 

we had a truck stop at Jacks Hill on the old A1    I wondered why it was so popular.

 

if the oil pump has the old strainer and the splash gauze in the sump it can aid the frustration.

 

on one awkward one i undid the oil  pump bolts thro the gap and dropped it in the sump,  

 

its the x member that need clearing wsm says lever the sump rearwards  and it falls off .....  Ha 

 

 

Pete

[Adrian]

Pete

 

So having to remove the oil pump to get it off - did that mean you re-attached the pump and refitted minus the splash gauze? 

 

May be a silly question but how much pressure / distance can be achieved before possibly damaging the front pulley? I assume it is as attached.

 

Again a silly question prior to reading up on the sealing block - is that done independently of the sump gasket, I assume it is behind the cover at the back of the flywheel? 

 

 

 

Thanks

[dougbgt6]

The ally block is at the front, the fan end.

 

I never had a problem with the pump and splash guard, but get it all back in if you can. If you can get them out, you can get them back.

 

I never damaged the pulley, but you can always get another one! 

[Pete Lewis]

The damper ring is more solid

 

Depends on engine evolution as to pumps having a strainer , not all sumps have the splash gauze

 

 

Later or replacement pumps have a strainer rather than a clear suction tube.

[NeilF]

Adrian,

 

Re your exhaust manifold, I painted mine with a high temperature - 700c - black spray can used mostly by motor bike owners. After 2 years it still looks better than a rusted unit. I took the manifold off, put it in the oven to warm it through, then painted it. It dried quite quickly!

 

NeilF

[Colin Lindsay]

PJ1 Fastblack used to be my paint of choice until I found out that BBQ paint, or Stove paint, is almost the same and miles cheaper.

[Adrian]

Thanks for all the advice already received. Whilst I haven't ordered a sealing block yet, or even checked the torque of the sump bolts I have a lower, front and rear gasket set so that's good. My question is Gasket sealer - where would you use it and what would you use - I have a small pot of Heldite. Do we do a Henry Cooper and 'splash it all over'?

 

Thanks

[Pete Lewis]

Use what ever you prefer, bear in mind theres a good bit of handling to replace the sump so expect some on the hands ,

worth a look at the timing cover seal while your seeking leaks, then it goes on to timing chains

where to stop , or leave well alone ,

with the sump off use a small ball pein hammer and strike with a heavier one and drift the flange holes down from the top, with age the bolt holes distort where it crushes the gasket , you need to make it flat or reverse the distortion

so give all holes a good whack

[dougbgt6]

I used Red Hermatite which is still available, if you can find it. A modern, just as good, is Hylomar Blue. But you're struggling under the car and as Pete says, it gets everywhere!

[Adrian]

Absolutely right regarding the sealing block - just checked for tightness of the sump nuts at the front. The two central nuts turn with very little effort - the others are nice and firm.

 

 

[dougbgt6]

A lot of oil about! Seems to be on the front of the block as well? I wonder if the timing chain cover gasket is OK? My engine leaks from the crank shaft oil seal on the timing chain cover, which I think is quite common.