Mashby Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Hi all, I need some help. The fuel pump on my herald 1360 has a very minor, weepy leak on the exit pipe to the carb. It's right where the brass nut joins the copper pipe to the pump. I have tried putting a half turn on the nut which didn't work and then undoing the nut and using plumbers tape around the nut of the pump and around the fixed olive on the end of the copper pipe. This has been dry for about two weeks but as I checked this evening, it has started weeping again. Any ideas? I don't want to replace the pump and pipe if possible as this seems like overkill to me Any advice gratefully accepted Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Be careful you don't wring the threads on the pump, they're softer than the pipe threads. If the weep is coming from around the pipe and down through the inside of the nut and it's not tight enough to seal, reflare it as you'd flare a brake pipe. This may help it seal better without having to tighten it too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 You should only use ptfe tape around the olive and its pipe, make sure the pipe end is kept clear . the threads on the nut have nothing to do with the sealing, it just clamps the olive onto the pipe, the seal is the olive against the pump body so does the pipe protrude a little beyond the olive ? Is the olive distorted by overtightening over the years suprised a 13/60has an olive, as Colin suggests a flare pipe is more normal pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mashby Posted July 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Thanks both. Right this is my poor description and misunderstanding. I assumed the copper pipe had an olive braised on but from what you both say, it's a flared pipe. I have never reflared a pipe so would need some advice. And the plumbers tape needs to be round the flare not the nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Back in the days when my 13/60 had carbs my pump was a pipe & olive, this is how it's listed on Canley's. Mine always used to work lose and then weep, I was forever tightening it. PTFE tape around the threads stopped mine from coming lose, but maybe Loctite 542 would work better. Have just used this on different fuel related connection and seems to have worked well. Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mashby Posted July 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Thanks Darren, (looks like we have the same car btw) If the leak is in the flared pipe would the locktite or tape fix this round the thread I wonder? Still intrigued to know how you can " reflare" the pipe if this is where the problem is. Hoping someone could let me know 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/brake-pipe-flaring-kit-10-pc-piece-tool-sealey-ak506-set-copper-brass-aluminium Need a special tool to grip the tube and a screw in mandril and former to get the tube end to do a single flare for a fuel type fitting or a double flare for a high pressure brake pipe Prices vary but rough search on halfords Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 By reflare I mean either flare it, as in the bulge you get on the end of a brake pipe which the nut then seals into the aperture of the pump body, or else widen it out by the insertion of something into the pipe to stretch the metal and make it seal better against the sides where it passes through the nut. Nothing drastic, just a slight enlargement to improve the seal. I'll try to attach two photos straight off the Net - the first showing flares, the second showing the part of a brake flaring kit that inserts into the pipe end - you see the row of black spike things to the left? A slightly oversize one of these inserted into the pipe end will stretch the pipe slightly and possibly make it seal better through the nut. The trick is not to be too harsh and maybe split or crack it. Simplest thing is to try a bit of ptfe tape around the pipe - not the threads - where it passes through the nut and see if this cures the weep. It might just be enough to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Or just get a short length of 1/4" pipe, nut and olive and replace a short section out of the pump, trim the pipe with the poorly sealing flare and join the 2 with a short length of rubber house. You can probably buy everything you need for under a tenner. Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Or to add to Darrens idea get a screw in hose fitting and use fuel hose all the way to the carbs and bin the pipe idea, pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 That's what I did, an ancient guru told me about it. Also all rubber, between pump and carbs, has only two metal to rubber connections, minimising the dread rubber slivers problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mashby Posted July 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Many thanks is for all the advice. What I have been trying to find is another brass screw fitment the same as the one on the inlet to the pump as that has an extended nozzle which is joined to the copper fuel pipe by about 9 inches of rubber pipe. If I could get one of these then I could replicate this in the other side. So far I have been unable to find it. Any ideas where I could get one? (Tried rimmers and paddocks). I have even contemplated using a brass 1/4" garden hose fitting which may do the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Try here: https://www.automec.co.uk/collections/brass-fittings I can't remember the thread size, but just measure what you have. Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 I am having trouble with fuel weaping from around the lid securing screw at the top of the pump assembly. Tried to tighten it up and the washer around the screw head disintergrated. Tried a small plumbers rubber washer and then a silicone O-ring. Neither work very well leaving a slight fuel leak which I believe is an mot fail as well as being a fire hazzard. The part is listed on Rimmers 520213 but not available. Can anyone advise some sort of replacement (quickly !!). The original may have been leather but now hard to tell what it was from the remains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 I would have thought a fibre or copper washer of the correct ID would work better, a rubber washer or O ring would compress and go out of shape too easily, plus the rubber may not be fuel resisitant. Canley's do a Fuel Pump Kit 506423 that seems to include a suitable washer. Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 agree fibre is the one to use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 Found some bigger bits of the original washer when I put the car away. It appears to be cork or fibre. I don't need a full refurb kit, just the top washer. Managed to stop the leak temporarily with a silicone o ring. Got to order a new silencer and diff oil seal, so will be going to Paddocks (local ish to me) so will see what they have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now