Gadgetman Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 Quick question, should the whole of the front and rear engine plates be painted or should they be bare metal where they set against the block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 paint acts as a lubricate , its not good on hard facings if it degrades through any shuffing you loose torque on the fixings ,,, but many do give it all a light spray ,,if you just cant resist !!! less of a problem on engine plates but certainly bad practice on hubs drums and discs., and uj couplings etc must be kept clean and bare metal Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 originally both fully painted. I decided to only paint the exposed parts of the front plate as internally it will be coated in oil and I don't trust the new paint to not fall off into the oil. The rear plate is not subject to oil (assuming all gaskets and seals work) so maybe should be fully painted, though with the Triumph rust protection system it will prob be coated in oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted July 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2017 Sounds like a light coat of etch primer, assemble temporarily then spray gloss black with the block Unless I get them Zink / Nickel plated Black... hmmmm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 21, 2017 Report Share Posted July 21, 2017 "originally both fully painted" How many engines, Dan? All that I have dismatled/rebuils have had paint on the outside, where not covered by other parst. The engines were painted once built, not before assembly, for the reason Pete gave and to save paint! I suffer as you do from disabling rebuilder's obsession syndrome - while it's out, clean it, polish it, give it a coat of paint! - but we'll fight it together! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted July 21, 2017 Report Share Posted July 21, 2017 Good question. I'm at this stage as well and have been asking myself what would be best to do as what came off after 40+ years is highly unlikely to be original. Mine generally have a light coat of black (although not very good now). My gut feel is the rear plate should be subject to minimal oil so a light coat (full coat in exposed areas) whilst the front plate is sandwiched between oily areas so paint after assembly of timing cover. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 22, 2017 Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 Incidentally I was looking at this photo of a rebuilt engine recently.... anyone know what the paint is to get that lovely matt factory-looking finish? Everyone seems to sell gloss.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted February 1, 2018 Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 Could try Hammerite Barbecue Paint, that is matt?, and heat resistant. Thought? I May try that on the chiminea?. SWMBO was "saying" it looked scruffy!. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 Pretty common in the day would be a black enamel dip tank and a oven bake. Parts that need to grip when assembled would not have painted faces, that may well be engine plates where a non paint lubricated shuffle is Desired Thats why steering props brakes etc are always bare metal Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 On 22/07/2017 at 8:47 AM, Colin Lindsay said: Incidentally I was looking at this photo of a rebuilt engine recently.... anyone know what the paint is to get that lovely matt factory-looking finish? Everyone seems to sell gloss.... I got a finish similar to this with Tetrosyl/Carplan matt black engine lacquer. Paid £10 for a small tin from a small auto factors though! Link to it here. Pretty pleased with the result, although for some inexplicable reason I painted the sump and back plate with a different paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 I've come close to it on a gearbox with VinylKote Direct-to-Rust Primer and VinylKote Black Topcoat; the other engine enamels such as Frost are too shiny and seem to fade much too quickly. I liked the ceramic look of that engine, it's close to an old paint called PJ1 Fastblack that I used on engine manifolds and exhausts many years ago. Wonder if you can still get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algy Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Don't use Hammerite paints they crack and are not oil resistant. I have to say I do give the whole plate a light coat (after spraying the area outside the contact area) as to my thinking it is going to move less than the paper gasket and give some protection at the edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Colin. I think your first photo (engine) looks very close to stove enamel paint, now used on a regular basis for refurbishing wood stoves and the like - also has the benefit of having high heat capability. The paint gives that dull matt finish which seems to fit with the photo. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 It's possible, stove or exhaust paint always seems to have a nice flat matt finish. My last Herald engine started out like David's in the photo but ended up very dusty, dirty and faded after next to no time - this was either Halfords or Frosts Engine enamel in black gloss. The stuff I mentioned, the PJ1 Fastblack, claims to be 'porcelain hard' and certainly works on manifolds; I may give the engine a blast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Colin. PJ1 is a satin finish - is that the correct finish for the engine ?? I do not know, just pointing it out. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 No idea Richard, I go with what looks nice (to me!!) rather than what's original. (Orange rocker cover?? Whose idea was that? ) I'm just want an easy-maintenance finish, and gloss seems too much hard work, from bitter experience... Incidentally - what's the opinion on painting core plugs? Paint, or leave? Have seen both so am undecided... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 I'm all for that Colin. I reckon as long as they [core plugs] are fitted properly and doing the job, treat them to a lick of paint - cannot see any harm in it; either operationally or cosmetically. Just my opinion. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now