Jump to content

**ANOTHER TALE OF WOE-BUT THINGS MIGHT BE IMPROVING??** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!


Recommended Posts

Better than that, when I complained this morning, I was told (honestly) that it was normal practice to cut down the standard system to get the manifold to fit using the adapter. When I pointed out that the sports manifold with adapter fitted onto the rear pipe without any butchery there was great surprise. I also pointed out that taking a hacksaw to an item caused problems with any guarantee. I might be fairly new to diy mechanics but in this case 'sale of goods act' rules.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On to the next job.  Diff front oil seal.  I have taken off the old silencer and dropped the prop shaft.  The diff is the shim/castellated nut type but the nut is so tight I can't move it probably not been moved since the factory - (yes I have removed the locking split pin!!).  Does anyone have any good ideas on moving it.  I have read about bolting a bar onto the flange to act as a second lever point along with the main spanner, others comment on using grips to hold the flange, but I think that idea is asking for damage.  By the time I have finished on this thread, there will be enough advice to rebuild a whole car. I used to ask my brother-in-law (mechanic) but he is no longer around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Two bolts thro the coupling and a lever jammed in to hold any rotation , the nut is not gorrila tight but

trying to wind up the transmission looses all your input effort

torque is 70 -85lbft

 

the coupling should come off easy maybe a light mallet.

 

take care hooking the old seal out dont nadger the bearing roller race cage behind it

 

With all flanges give the mating faces a run with a file to make sure there are no

burrs or bruises from any previous hammer ingress

most important they are FLAT

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rh thread   

 

i only do paint with  rollers  

 

  we used Marine Epoxy on  panel repairs  on odd bits of the vIt6 and thats water proof , and very tough. takes some sanding

but doesn't blow and drop out or make water bubbles like p38 and others 

 

 

we once painted sons nappy yellow mini  bright red and white roof   with Japlac with brush and roller   done in a morning 

 

some spirit to thin a tad and wow  a result ........sponge roller gives a nice orange peel 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let me get an MOT and put in back on the road first.  Painting is scheduled for late autumn or early spring, avoiding the very cold months. Must admit though, back in the dark ages I painted my old Hillman Husky (not the Imp version) with blue Dulux house paint. Looked nice at the time. Sold it on soon after. Sometimes wonder what happened to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After a very long struggle I have finally got the nut off and pulled the flange.  It looks like the rubber seal is behind a welded metal plate.  Do I take out just the rubber bit or try to get out the entire metal disc section. The Haynes manual is not very clear and the BL workshop manual just says lever out the old seal. I don't want to butcher anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Managed to carefully cut around the edge of the plate were it was welded and popped out the inner seal bits taking care not to damage anything. New seal has gone in and everything torqued up. Fill up and check tomorrow and refit prop shaft. I have noticed there are only 7 spacer/load spreading shims at the end of the prop shaft.  If this usual. Most of the drawing only show 4. Will have a better read up tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like a strap drive. Parts catalogue says no 143215(8). I only appear to have 7, somewhat worrying.

As for the seal, when it came it out it looked out like there was a plate forming the front which overhung about 1/4" all round but looking at the remains this morning its the front of the seal assembly which was bent back in my attempts to get it out.

 

Addition... I have found a 'spare' strap in my box of bits. A little worrying but at least now I have a full set.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Can anyone point me to a pattern for the prop shaft tunnel cover. The bit of that is usually covered in vinyl that goes between the radio support bracket and the armrest. It only appears to be a piece of bent plate. I want to make one out of some aluminium that I have and trim it but don't have a pattern for the cut out section. I know I could simply use a piece of card, but not sure of any mounting lugs or other hidden bits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone have any advice about using unleaded petrol in a leaded head. I have an additive (castrol valvemaster) but some say use it on every fill up, others only every second or third fill. I am not planning to replace the head in the near future so better be safe than sorry. Advice, as ever, would be gratefully received.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a leaded head and I did for a while use additive until I realized it was turning the plugs pink and I could no longer tell if I was running rich or weak. Also there is this concept called "the memory of lead". The old lead deposits will still be there and protect your valves for years to come, unless you regrind the valves. Even then received wisdom is do nothing to the head until it needs it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes dont waste money on any addative a complete waste of time and funds

use 97+ron fuel and run it till a problem appears , then if heads off get some exhaust inserts

the lead memory dougs mentioned will out last you useage

if you xo a lot of hard motoring and you find valve cleances are closing then valve recession is developing

 

so save your money to buy more fuel and use the car with a smile

 

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks fellas. Knew you would look after me. Sadly, been unable to free the clutch. Ran for over an hour and tried all suggestions to break it free.. no luck. I don't fancy taking it out to free it so will get it to my local garage. They can do it in a fraction of the time, and more reliably, than me. Will probably get them to put a new clutch kit in. That will see me out!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Badwolf changed the title to **ANOTHER TALE OF WOE-BUT THINGS MIGHT BE IMPROVING??** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...