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** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!


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Thanks all. After priming the float chambers and reconnecting everything with a new filter I tried to start her. Second attempt and off she went. Now there appears to be fuel in the filter chamber and I think that all is well. As there was no problems before the winter mothball I didn't fancy taking out the pump neither did I fancy blowing back through the fuel line. I have mentioned problems with fuel disappearing from the filter previously. I think that it is possibly a case of fuel evaporating from the float chambers letting air into the fuel lines and the remaining fuel then syphoning back into the tank (there could even be deposits of dried fuel blocking the pump filter gauze but I didn't get around to checking).This would mean that I was trying to pull fuel right from the tank manually which might take some time...just a theory.

In addition, while the engine was running I tried the clutch after re-rubbering it last week, which worked well without needing to bleed it. I was amazed. Not checked the filter this morning but fingers crossed. I intend to order some Gates barracade and remake the fuel lines and include a cut off valve for both security and fuel run back prevention. Just need to get out for a run now. 

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Tony - Thanks for the link. Interesting gadget. I actually have a one way valve to fit but thought I had better get the fuel flowing before I introduce anything that could be a further problem. Will fit it along with the cut off valve when I fit the Gates. Not sure whether to put the cut off in the boot of under the bonnet. Any thoughts anyone. For security it would make little difference as I will have bonnet locks available when I finally get my steel bonnet back on.

Just a thought, how far can you travel on the contents of the carb float chambers? Just in case I do have something in the fuel line that might block up, it would be handy to know how far away from home I could get before the carbs empty!!

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24 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

Just a thought, how far can you travel on the contents of the carb float chambers? Just in case I do have something in the fuel line that might block up, it would be handy to know how far away from home I could get before the carbs empty!!

Probably about 100 yards... :)

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fuel and electrical cut outs are brilliant until you park at the pub then forget you have one and get recovery home , then this brain wave says ....did you turn it back on 

we had a few in the pub doing this Tee shirt    

ive said before in the war you had to remove the rotor to imobilise the car and Dad tells the story of pushing the Minx all the way through Luton to home and on putting hand in pocket for the house keys found the rotor   

yes imobilisers they can make red faces

Pete

 

 

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Cheap...me....most definitely.  I doubt that there is anyone on this forum cheaper than me. 

Found the offer but not sure that it was suitable for me in the end. The glass filter looks extremely expensive compared with those on Fleabay. I (obviously) have no idea about quality etc but at c.£7.00.  I will probably just ring the club next week and order a length of 8mm.  My fuel pipe is 8mm copper microbore. Not sure what is between the tank and the pipe so will have to check behind the boot panel this weekend. I may put the fuel cut out in there as I mentioned earlier and an in-line none return  valve just before the filter. We will see.

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1 hour ago, Mathew said:

You think small. Ebay ha. Had cars , boats for free. Not recently but you never know whats round the corner. Mind you i also give alot away!

Once went throught the checkout at A*da with a legal trolly load of stuff and if it hadn't been for the two bottles of spirits they would have paid me £28 to take it off their hands

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2 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

Once went throught the checkout at A*da with a legal trolly load of stuff and if it hadn't been for the two bottles of spirits they would have paid me £28 to take it off their hands

Was doing the same when bo#ts card had a glitch, 36 cans of deodorant for a penny, did get a funny look though.

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Back to the plot.

Which is the best guide to doing tappets, Workshop manual or Haynes.

After setting them does anything else need resetting.

I have never done these solo before and, as usual, don't want the b*gger something up (which I am very good at, as regular readers already know).

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use rule of nine if you are uncertain      

resetting wont affect anything else but if they were all tight it will affect the idle 

and thats 8 down do 1      7 down do  2   etc 

turn the screw in to squidge any oil out the way and back off to a nice firm feeler grip ie it slides with some resistance /feel  

Pete

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Thanks again. I will try to do the tappets over the weekend and report back.

Just going back to the fuel pipe issue, I have made an interesting discovery in that the tube that I was sold 3 years ago is 5.6mm. No wonder I am having problems fitting it onto an 8mm pipe. This could explain the problems in getting a decent amount of fuel through manually, when I was having problems yesterday.

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Re. doing the tappets.   1. Feeler gauge is to be inserted flat and level with the top of the valve stem, trying to curve the blade in from above is simply not accurate.  Feeler gauges do of course come in different lengths, some as short as an inch, so that they can be slotted in from the side.

2. It is very much easier to do if your screwdriver is the right size for the adjuster's slot.  That may sound either daft or so obvious, but I've seen friends try to adjust the tappets with the first screwdriver that comes to hand (which is often too slim and loose fitting).  Whereas a large screwdriver with thick blade (nice and tight blade fit in the adjuster's slot) makes all the difference to feel and accurate control.  This combined with a BIG handle means - what you feel at the handle is what you get at the adjuster. The one I use is 12" or so long - which to a novice may appear contrary to adjusting something to the nearest half a thou tolerance

3. Similarly, an extra long handle open ended spanner, 1/2" A/F in the case of my Triumph, is also very much more controllable because the force you need to apply, for undoing and doing up, is lighter and more controllable (due to its longer leverage). 

New-to-mechanics are very often so focused on the job to be done that they give little thought to having 'the right tool for the job'. 

Pete.

4.  check the gap before you undo the adjuster. You may find that half of them don't require adjustment anyway.!

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