** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!

[Pete Lewis]

and screwdriver   a olde wooden handled   driver has far more control with a nice palm sized handle 

than you can get with a small  plastic thingy    also you can generate more torque for tightening any screws 

[Badwolf]

23 hours ago, poppyman said:

If you don't use the car daily BW fit one of these. Best six quid i ever spent on my Dolly 1850.

Tony.

Tony - Thanks for that. I notice that the pump bulb is rubber. Will that cause any problems with ethanol deterioration?

[poppyman]

1 hour ago, Badwolf said:

Tony - Thanks for that. I notice that the pump bulb is rubber. Will that cause any problems with ethanol deterioration?

To be quite honest i thought myself BW, but i have had one on my Dolly for about three years now without problem and i did fit it before one those plastic filters to see. Up to now no problem. They are used for petrol to outboard motors and have been for years. It has certainly solved my problem  

Tony.  

[Badwolf]

Thanks Tony. The link you posted is now dead but I have found others, probably all the same quality from the same oriental manufacturer somewhere. I will get one on my next fleabay order. Much appreciated. By the way, the current filter is now full of beautifully clean petrol.  I couldn't see it well in the garage lighting but after taking her outside for a wash (yes - stands back in amazement - Lady BW in recovery after the shock!!) I could see the level clearly so for the moment all is well.

I am now dealing with the footwell panels after cleaning up the silicone brake fluid. Found some bare metal and surface rust under the carpet. Not bad after 30 odd years. Now treating it with Bilthamber Hydrate80 and will then give it a topcoat of old Hammerite. Only got half a litre of the old, good stuff left, but taking care of it for bits of touch up. Once its dry I intend to put a layer of silentcoat over the paint and replace the carpet. Then I might actually get around to taking the photos for the agreed value and then doing something more productive on the hard-top.

[Badwolf]

On the subject of old Hammerite, does anyone know the basis of the original thinners. I know that the modern muck is useless but that the original was somehow different. Would 2k thinners/acetone/panel wipe or anything else on the modern shelf be any good as I could do with adding a little to stop the remains getting too thick. 

[Mathew]

I have used the smoothrite but the thinners always makes it into the hammer version!

Never been that happy with thinning it. I just let it skin over and break through it when needed.

[Badwolf]

On 10/04/2021 at 08:33, Pete Lewis said:

and screwdriver   a olde wooden handled   driver has far more control with a nice palm sized handle 

than you can get with a small  plastic thingy    also you can generate more torque for tightening any screws 

Now I understand the big screwdriver comments along with the "keep the feeler gauge flat". I have, for the first time in my life without supervision adjusted the tappets on the car. Scared to death... you bet. But, it is done and she started. Still lumpy on the choke but I'll look into that over the next few days. She sounded like an overgrown sewing machine. Now sounding much, much better. Whether she will run under load remains to be seen.  However, whoever did the adjustments last time must have set them at about 20thou. An 18 thou feeler gauge went into most of the gaps easily, so, unless I have done this terribly, terribly wrong, this should be better. We will see. I tell you this not for any sort of praise but to say that if I can do it, anyone with a Haynes or WSM can do it too. Thank you Pete, Mathew and BFG for your guidance.

[Scrappy]

On 11/04/2021 at 19:52, Badwolf said:

On the subject of old Hammerite, does anyone know the basis of the original thinners. I know that the modern muck is useless but that the original was somehow different. Would 2k thinners/acetone/panel wipe or anything else on the modern shelf be any good as I could do with adding a little to stop the remains getting too thick. 

Store the tin upside down Badwolf, it wont skin over because its air tight. I store all my paints this way.

Alf

[Badwolf]

Scrappy. Thanks for that, but the thing is that the paint is now so old, it's starting to thicken up so needs to be let down hence the request for help with thinners.

[Mathew]

2 hours ago, Scrappy said:

Store the tin upside down Badwolf, it wont skin over because its air tight. I store all my paints this way.

Alf

Wish i opened my cans better! If i did that paint would be everywhere!

[poppyman]

On 10/04/2021 at 11:25, Badwolf said:

Thanks Tony. The link you posted is now dead but I have found others, probably all the same quality from the same oriental manufacturer somewhere. I will get one on my next fleabay order. Much appreciated. By the way, the current filter is now full of beautifully clean petrol.  I couldn't see it well in the garage lighting but after taking her outside for a wash (yes - stands back in amazement - Lady BW in recovery after the shock!!) I could see the level clearly so for the moment all is well.

I am now dealing with the footwell panels after cleaning up the silicone brake fluid. Found some bare metal and surface rust under the carpet. Not bad after 30 odd years. Now treating it with Bilthamber Hydrate80 and will then give it a topcoat of old Hammerite. Only got half a litre of the old, good stuff left, but taking care of it for bits of touch up. Once its dry I intend to put a layer of silentcoat over the paint and replace the carpet. Then I might actually get around to taking the photos for the agreed value and then doing something more productive on the hard-top.

Hi BW when i posted the link it was still live.... Never mind the others are pretty much the same but some don't have the none return valve.

Tony.

[Badwolf]

Thanks Tony. Not a problem and very grateful for the help.

 

[Colin Lindsay]

16 hours ago, Mathew said:

Wish i opened my cans better! If i did that paint would be everywhere!

Don't you hammer round the edge of the lid once you close it again? Works for me...

[Mathew]

1 minute ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Don't you hammer round the edge of the lid once you close it again? Works for me...

Im lucky if i find the lid! 

[Pete Lewis]

bet you can find the .....Hammer  ok 

Pete

[Badwolf]

Ok, results for the Hammerite or hammerwrong, depending on your point of view. 

I don't advocate storing the tins upside down because it tends to leak if hammered wrong, plus any skin forms in the middle of the can so you can't get rid of it without mixing up bits of skin in the paint. If the skin forms on the top, at least you can take it off before mixing.

I tend to cover the can with cling film or similar before putting on the top, this stops any paint on the rim glueing the lid on.

The thinners for the old type of Hammerite appears to be modern 2k thinners, which have cleaned of the brush up a treat and will get added to the slightly thick paint to thin it down.

 

 

[Mathew]

11 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

bet you can find the .....Hammer  ok 

Pete

Thats glued to my hand! If in doubt thump it.

2 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

Ok, results for the Hammerite or hammerwrong, depending on your point of view. 

I don't advocate storing the tins upside down because it tends to leak if hammered wrong, plus any skin forms in the middle of the can so you can't get rid of it without mixing up bits of skin in the paint. If the skin forms on the top, at least you can take it off before mixing.

I tend to cover the can with cling film or similar before putting on the top, this stops any paint on the rim glueing the lid on.

The thinners for the old type of Hammerite appears to be modern 2k thinners, which have cleaned of the brush up a treat and will get added to the slightly thick paint to thin it down.

 

 

Cling film over brushes over night if your using them the next day save time/cleaning and brushes.

[Badwolf]

.....if you are using a roller and tray, put the lot into a bin liner and tie up the end. That works a treat too.

[poppyman]

21 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

.....if you are using a roller and tray, put the lot into a bin liner and tie up the end. That works a treat too.

Cling film the bottom of the tray BW saves having clean the tray out, don't use cheap cling film though   Shall we talk about wallpapering now???

Tony.  

[Badwolf]

Tony - Neat idea, I think that its time to start a separate decorating thread over and above painting cars and spares.

[Badwolf]

Now on to the next bit.  I have very successfully fitted the cigarette lighter socket.  What is the best value fuse to feed it from.. no theory please, just what ampage and, should it be fed from the permanent live or the ignition circuits.  I will track down the circuit diagram later tonight for the correct wiring colour but for the time being gents/gentesses, can you assist please.

[JohnD]

This is not a recipe, Badwolf, this is engineering.

Amateur, surely but the fuse value depends entirely on what you want to use it for,  what current that will draw, and what the wiring behind the socket will take.    I use whatever the amperage of the device that will be powered from it, and double it, then check what the wires will take.    If my double figure is more then either replace the wires, or revise yur plans!

JOhn

[Badwolf]

Thanks John!!!! It's a fag lighter!!! There is a clue there..hence the "no theory please"

[poppyman]

Most "fag lighters" use a 25 amp in line fuse BW . When i smoked i prefered a permanent live. The socket on my modern is only ignition fed pita if i want to plug anything in......

Tony. 

[Badwolf]

Thanks Tony. Exactly the basic down to earth, no nonsense (no b*llsh*t) reply that I was hoping for, from someone that I respect. 25amp blade fuse in the posh fuse box first thing in the morning. Cheers