Pete Lewis Posted July 31, 2017 Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 so youve gone for the 1st pic option ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 Yes, the first option. They also sent a JPR474 adapter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 I will be returning option 2 (S/S sports manifold) tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 31, 2017 Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 if it was their advice to order the two options then someone has misguided you ,, its obvious you cant fit both try moving up the line of command and get them to explain how you fit both pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 Better than that, when I complained this morning, I was told (honestly) that it was normal practice to cut down the standard system to get the manifold to fit using the adapter. When I pointed out that the sports manifold with adapter fitted onto the rear pipe without any butchery there was great surprise. I also pointed out that taking a hacksaw to an item caused problems with any guarantee. I might be fairly new to diy mechanics but in this case 'sale of goods act' rules. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 On to the next job. Diff front oil seal. I have taken off the old silencer and dropped the prop shaft. The diff is the shim/castellated nut type but the nut is so tight I can't move it probably not been moved since the factory - (yes I have removed the locking split pin!!). Does anyone have any good ideas on moving it. I have read about bolting a bar onto the flange to act as a second lever point along with the main spanner, others comment on using grips to hold the flange, but I think that idea is asking for damage. By the time I have finished on this thread, there will be enough advice to rebuild a whole car. I used to ask my brother-in-law (mechanic) but he is no longer around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 1, 2017 Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 Two bolts thro the coupling and a lever jammed in to hold any rotation , the nut is not gorrila tight but trying to wind up the transmission looses all your input effort torque is 70 -85lbft the coupling should come off easy maybe a light mallet. take care hooking the old seal out dont nadger the bearing roller race cage behind it With all flanges give the mating faces a run with a file to make sure there are no burrs or bruises from any previous hammer ingress most important they are FLAT pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 Thanks Pete. I'm beginning to wonder what I would have done without you and all the other contributors to this forum. Just wait 'til I start on the repaint job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 The thread is right hand I assume. Suddenly had the thought that I'm trying to turn the wrong way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 1, 2017 Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 rh thread i only do paint with rollers we used Marine Epoxy on panel repairs on odd bits of the vIt6 and thats water proof , and very tough. takes some sanding but doesn't blow and drop out or make water bubbles like p38 and others we once painted sons nappy yellow mini bright red and white roof with Japlac with brush and roller done in a morning some spirit to thin a tad and wow a result ........sponge roller gives a nice orange peel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 Let me get an MOT and put in back on the road first. Painting is scheduled for late autumn or early spring, avoiding the very cold months. Must admit though, back in the dark ages I painted my old Hillman Husky (not the Imp version) with blue Dulux house paint. Looked nice at the time. Sold it on soon after. Sometimes wonder what happened to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 1, 2017 Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 Husky the original MPV ahead of its time I have a long family Rootes background and me being of Commer vintage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 After a very long struggle I have finally got the nut off and pulled the flange. It looks like the rubber seal is behind a welded metal plate. Do I take out just the rubber bit or try to get out the entire metal disc section. The Haynes manual is not very clear and the BL workshop manual just says lever out the old seal. I don't want to butcher anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 2, 2017 Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 Dont remember but you may get better access with the front support plate removed ?? many seals have a metal outer case, this has to be removed, normally it all comes out omplete the replacement is likely to be plastic .. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 Managed to carefully cut around the edge of the plate were it was welded and popped out the inner seal bits taking care not to damage anything. New seal has gone in and everything torqued up. Fill up and check tomorrow and refit prop shaft. I have noticed there are only 7 spacer/load spreading shims at the end of the prop shaft. If this usual. Most of the drawing only show 4. Will have a better read up tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 I dont understand you should not have any welded plate the front support is bolted onto the diff not welded !!! what shims on the propshaft is this whats known as the dreaded a strap drive or it has a telescopic slide ??? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 Looks like a strap drive. Parts catalogue says no 143215(8). I only appear to have 7, somewhat worrying. As for the seal, when it came it out it looked out like there was a plate forming the front which overhung about 1/4" all round but looking at the remains this morning its the front of the seal assembly which was bent back in my attempts to get it out. Addition... I have found a 'spare' strap in my box of bits. A little worrying but at least now I have a full set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 certainly needs 8 best idea is to dump it and get a proper with two UJ and telescopic Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 Will consider it for the future. Just want to get it mot'd and back on the road. Too many delays on this what with my lack of knowledge and wrong parts it will be Christmas at this rate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 read the manual on strap drive props the spigot needs some grease and they can make wonderfull vibrations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 Can anyone point me to a pattern for the prop shaft tunnel cover. The bit of that is usually covered in vinyl that goes between the radio support bracket and the armrest. It only appears to be a piece of bent plate. I want to make one out of some aluminium that I have and trim it but don't have a pattern for the cut out section. I know I could simply use a piece of card, but not sure of any mounting lugs or other hidden bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Does anyone have any advice about using unleaded petrol in a leaded head. I have an additive (castrol valvemaster) but some say use it on every fill up, others only every second or third fill. I am not planning to replace the head in the near future so better be safe than sorry. Advice, as ever, would be gratefully received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 I have a leaded head and I did for a while use additive until I realized it was turning the plugs pink and I could no longer tell if I was running rich or weak. Also there is this concept called "the memory of lead". The old lead deposits will still be there and protect your valves for years to come, unless you regrind the valves. Even then received wisdom is do nothing to the head until it needs it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Yes dont waste money on any addative a complete waste of time and funds use 97+ron fuel and run it till a problem appears , then if heads off get some exhaust inserts the lead memory dougs mentioned will out last you useage if you xo a lot of hard motoring and you find valve cleances are closing then valve recession is developing so save your money to buy more fuel and use the car with a smile pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Thanks fellas. Knew you would look after me. Sadly, been unable to free the clutch. Ran for over an hour and tried all suggestions to break it free.. no luck. I don't fancy taking it out to free it so will get it to my local garage. They can do it in a fraction of the time, and more reliably, than me. Will probably get them to put a new clutch kit in. That will see me out!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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