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Clutch Suppliers


Darren Groves
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Anyone fitted one of these clutch kits? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311340907455

 

Worth the extra money, better than the Borg & Beck kits everyone sells?

 

Darren

Hello Darren

                 Go to a few classic car shows and look for NOS (nice colour though NOT!)

 

Still a small glass window in the bell housing?

 

Roger

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I am with Roger. There are suppliers of NOS proper B+B clutches (not the cheap tat type in a modern B+B box)

Try the classifieds in the back of the old car mags? There are always a few stalls at stoneleigh who have that sort of stuff, though I guess they will eventually sell out! But they must advertise somewhere. Or stuff does turn up on ebay, if you are prepared to wait.

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Hello Darren.

 

Where I can, I always use David Kingerley http://www.obsoletecarspares.co.uk/

 

His parts are genuine NOS, really knows his stuff and a very nice chap to deal with.

 

He is always at the medium to big shows and I am certain you will have noted his stall at such shows; he was certainly at Stoneleigh in February.

 

Hope that assists ??

 

Good luck.

 

Richard.

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Go for the original spec, if you can - still available from many suppliers. It's worth paying extra for a good quality unit when you think of the bother there is fitting it or having to replace it after only a few miles.

Beware the autojumblers who sell clutches from stalls at many of our larger meets - one unit on display, the others in black plastic bin-liner-type coverings, heavily sellotaped.... you'll be handed one with the correct application written on the outside, but once you get home and fight through the miles of sellotape and black plastic covering you'll find a completely unsuitable unit that is literally only fit for a paperweight. Been there, still looking for the autojumbler.... :)

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with the efi do you know what power increase you have ??  is there any ???

 

old  NOS clutches can be ok but if over the years they get dropped then the diaphragm gets dis lodged and the torque straps canget bent or the whole pressure plate moves off centre ...disaster unless you like clutch judder'

 

over the years we had to endure crap clutch reconditioners we learnt a lot about what not to do.and have seen some horrendous examples of nice black paint and snazzy box with looks good junk inside 

 

so sticking to branded is always best , these look pretty confident in their pitch ,  but over specifiying the linings can give simple every day use its problems ,  harder linings have to be used , not just tickled around 

 

you could go to ceramic paddles on a race car but it would prove completely hopeless going to the pub or sainburys

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Thanks for the replies.

 

The Herald is at 74bhp, so only around MK3 Spit figures.

 

The Clutch has only done 2k miles and judders a fair bit particularly when warm, this was a Borg & Beck. I guess there could be bother causes for the judder.

 

Just considering alternatives to B&B, but apart from picking up NOS then there doesn't seem to be much around.

 

Cheers

Darren

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Thanks for the replies.

 

The Herald is at 74bhp, so only around MK3 Spit figures.

 

The Clutch has only done 2k miles and judders a fair bit particularly when warm, this was a Borg & Beck. I guess there could be bother causes for the judder.

 

Just considering alternatives to B&B, but apart from picking up NOS then there doesn't seem to be much around.

 

Cheers

Darren

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  • 3 months later...

As the dashboard & seats were out of the car, I thought I may as well whip out the gearbox to see if I could work out what was causing the clutch judder I've been suffering since my engine swap earlier this year. At the time I fitted a new B&B Clutch purchased from the club shop.

So the top 2 photos are either side of the 'new' clutch, the bottom 2 are of the one that was in before and was fine IIRC.

Does the wear pattern on the friction plate give any clues?  Does the band on the outer edge indicate it's only making partial contact with the flywheel? The wear pattern on the previous friction plate is even.

The Flywheel was skimmed a few years ago and looks in good shape.

Darren 

IMG_5913.JPG.9d503e0727df38420b45c2bf7fea2092.JPG

 

IMG_5912.JPG.546b8688a3b0e2682abc5d6aca4dd02b.JPG

 

IMG_5915.JPG.c52a799f6045d4d3062bb1dac7dc95dd.JPG

 

IMG_5916.JPG.78fd1151e990b150b7dc71d5271d92c3.JPG

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On 12/11/2017 at 7:23 PM, Pete Lewis said:

Clutch judder ...is the engine back plate nice and flat, not distorted by many on's and offs 

As  for lining marks

wont  open this silly tablet  And laptops out in the cold 

Pete

 

 

Thanks Pete, interesting reading.

2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

That top one looks badly glazed... has it been slipping?

No slip, just judder.
--0--
I think I may have found the issue as there is play in the release bearing, I can make it rock a fair bit on the carrier. I have a new one on the shelf so can compare and it's quite noticeable, pretty poor given it has only done 3-4k miles. So do I fit the 'new' friction plate that's looking a bit glazed or go back to the older one or try and pick-up a NOS kit. 

Apart from the judder, both this clutch and the previous one has had the biting point fairly close to the floor, closer than you'd expect. Bearing thickness is the correct 19mm, any other causes of this? 

Darren 

 

 

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Apart from hydraulics and operating lever losses  the  bite on a new  thick disc will be lower than a worn one 

With diaphragms the clamp load reduces and the pedal load increases as the disc thins

Pitching throwout s is a problem of fits on the sleeve,  no grooves, and the withdrawl pins being on the centre line of its travel so it maintains alignment when stroking

Make sure the cover plate drive staps are all nice and equal, not bent 

Pete

 

 

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I'm not losing any travel up at the M/C, but the push rod on the release arm was a bit slack (see below). Not sure if this will make much difference but I may as well replace it whilst it's apart.

IMG_5923.JPG.2e4e42342fb6d247332f7eed547d7f01.JPG

I was chatting to a guy yesterday about clutches, he was telling me his trick for centralising the friction plate. With the pressure plate on the bench face up, he puts 2 or 3 small spots of super glue on it, then puts the friction plate on top, centralises it by just feeling the edges around the mating surfaces and lets the glue set. He then fits the 2 parts of the clutch to the flywheel, does away with clutch alignment issues. He claims that every gearbox he's fitted this way has gone straight in and the small amounts of glue used make no difference to the operation and soon wears off.

Genius idea?

Darren 

 

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Think I would stick to centralising with the spigot bearing not the outside perifery of the pressure plate which may be quite irregular

Being a unmachined open tolerance casting

The supa glue idea  may well work but its not controlling the  orientation of the important parts

Pete 

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I wasn’t going to use this method, just thought it was an interesting trick.

I have always used a 3/8 drive extension bar, fits snuggly in the spigot and then just align the plate by eye and they always seem to drop in fine. The only time I used a the proper alignment tool the bugger wouldn’t go in, so then re-done with the bar and all way fine.

Darren

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