Benlm77 Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Hi, Does anyone have experience of fitting sound\heat proofing to a triumph spitfire? I'm considering fitting dynamat + dynerliner instead of the typical underfelt. I should say here that the car has now been totally stripped and fully painted both inside and out so I have a blank canvas to start with. However I'm somewhat confused on what to use for the best balance between a comfortable drive and adding weight affecting the performance, I've read lot about Dynamat extreme and Dynamat Superlite and still not sure. Does anyone have any experiecne of either sound proofing and recarpetting a spitfire or the Dynamat product itsself? Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishmosh Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Dynamat had a ( poorly sited ) stand at the TSSC international.They were kitting out a vitesse......Good guys with a great product. Bought a kit of extreme. . its a bit weighty, but of good quality. ( although I am still yet to fit it!) best bet is to ring them and have a chat. Or Ring Garth at hq and get his views. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Yes dynamat is sold from your club shop pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benlm77 Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Great thanks for the help, looks like I'll be giving Garth and dynamat a call in the new year... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Jones Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 I sound "proofed" my 1500 spitfire last year using a similar material to the Dynamat - Silent Coat Noise Isolator 10 - Sound Absorbing mat & Ground Zero GZDM 800-GOLD Sound Deadening mat. The only reason I chose not to use Dynamat was cost - the Silent Coat product was cheaper. Unfortunately the Dynamat product wasn't available from the club shop at the time but I think you'll find that Garth has negotiated better prices for the Dynamat product which may well now be cheaper from the club than Silent Coat. It's well worth doing. The difference is quite surprising and the whole car feels more solid. Don't forget to insulate the door skins and inside the boot. Be aware that the sound deadening (the shiny stuff in the photos) is unbelievably sticky - make sure you position carefully as it's a bugger to peel off to re-position. Here's a link to the photos. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benlm77 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Thanks Clive, that is very encouraging, nice pics too! Did you find it added a lot of weight to the car? And did you notice any difference in performance afterwards, just curious as a lot of what I have read suggests it is extremly heavy though in my mind once you factor in the weight of the alternative standard underfelt the difference must be fairly marginable, be interested to hear your thoughts. Also am I correct in saying that the Noise Isolator 10 is similar to the Dynaliner offered by Dynamat which goes on top of the shiny deadning mat? Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Don't worry about the weight too much. And balance that with the fact it is a spitfire, not a saloon car. So it will never be exactly quiet. The quietest spitfire I have driven was a very low mileage, totally unmolested one. That had nothing fancy except it had factory (or probably dealer applied) underseal and justb the old type felt carpet underlay. I have greatly improved the sound issues in cars by making sure all holes are sealed with grommits or just sealed up. It is amazing how many unused holes there seem to be, either original or added over the years. Then making sure the tunnel is well fitted and sealed. Then I added the bitumen type pads to the bulkhead (behind pedals and same pass side) then used rubber waffle domestic carpet underlay. The heavy one. Sadly light stuff just does not work anywhere near as well. If I was prepared to spend some proper money, dynamat or similar would be my choice, applied to the main floor sections etc, and also the rear cockpit panel. Don't get too worried about it, the law of diminishing returns applies heavily here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 And make sure you have the bitumen pads on the doorskins! they will be horrible without. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benlm77 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Thanks Client, points noted and much appreciated, grommets and spare holes already filled (quite what they are all for who knows!) I think I then plan to go the Dynamat and Dynaliner route, I only plan in doing this sort of thing once so this seems the best alround approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Jones Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Just to add confusion, there are two of us Clives replying to your post! For further confusion, I incorrectly referred to the noise absorbtion mat as Isolator 10 - it's Isolator 8 - it's 8mm thick. Here's the product which I fitted on top of the Ground Zero sound deadening mat. Yes, Dynamat Dynaliner is a very similar product to the Silent Coat Isolator 8. As the other Clive says, the increase in weight is negligible - both noise deadener and absorber together weigh about 3.5 kgs/sqm and I used 3.3 sqm to do the whole of the cockpit floor, door skins and boot floor - so you may be adding about 12 kgs to the car's weight. Whether you decide to go for the absorber as well as the deadener is up to you but, again, as Clive says, the benefit of the absorber will be far less noticeable than the deadener. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benlm77 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Two Clive's, wasn't expecting that! Anyway big thanks to both of you for helping to simplify and make sense of the options!... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 All the best people are Clives! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 I've told this story before, but .... People obsess about heat getting into the car, and thinking that the gearbox or the exhaust pipe is the source, with putting expensive thermal insulation inside the gearbox cover. Not so. All that heat comes from the radiator at the front, and gets inside the car around the poor sealing of the cover the the bulkhead, and the many holes in the bulkhead that are often unused and left open/ I can say this with confidence, because once upon a time I built a Vitesse with a radiator in the back. Silverback was a cold car. Even on nice summer days, my hands would get cold! There was no heat at all coming through from the gearbox or exhaust pipe. Soundproofing, I can't advise you on, but instead of expensive thermal insulation, pay strict attention to the sealing of cover to floor/bulkhead and to sealing all those little holes in the bulkhead! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 Hi - realise this is an old post but I'd like to replace my almost non-existing floor insulation but think the dynamat route is probably a bit expensive. Had anyone tried any cheaper options. Thanks Robin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishmosh Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 I have used neoprene off eBay with some success. And the old fashioned felt backed with rubber from car shows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 Heavy carpet underlay (as in house) works well, the rubber waffle stuff made a hudge difference in my car when I fitted it. However, it does absorb water. Mine was used for the RBRR and I reckoned it was worthwhile for a 48hour non-stop drive (but sadly we never got to the start, long story) but came out after. Will be refitting for this years event. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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