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Good Herald1200 1962 needs new home.


Awind269
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re Corrosion. No it has never been mentioned in any MOT. Not even the outriggers.

I had it sodablasted in July 2011 and picked the outriggers up myself when the thick goo was removed. The previous owner had used the rather old-fashioned idea of coating the chassis with old engine oil. I then got it sorted as it was going to be a longterm keep, and during this time it had a brief SORN Jan 11 to April 11 while it was sorted. The other stuff is superficial and cosmetic. It really is so minor I have not bothered. None of it is visible. The car really is not hiding any dark secrets. I am a wax-oiler rather than under-sealer as I like to be able to see what is going on rather than it being hidden under the sealant.  I make the exception for the wheel arches  for which I put thicker stuff in. The sunroof and headlining are the tiredest part of it.

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5 minutes ago, Awind269 said:

re Corrosion. No it has never been mentioned in any MOT. Not even the outriggers.

I had it sodablasted in July 2011 and picked the outriggers up myself when the thick goo was removed. The previous owner had used the rather old-fashioned idea of coating the chassis with old engine oil. I then got it sorted as it was going to be a longterm keep, and during this time it had a brief SORN Jan 11 to April 11 while it was sorted. The other stuff is superficial and cosmetic. It really is so minor I have not bothered. None of it is visible. The car really is not hiding any dark secrets. I am a wax-oiler rather than under-sealer as I like to be able to see what is going on rather than it being hidden under the sealant.  I make the exception for the wheel arches  for which I put thicker stuff in. The sunroof and headlining are the tiredest part of it.

Hi I checked your reg on www.check-mot.service.gov.uk  and this info was shown 

Regards

Paul 

21-09-2017 16-16-01.jpg

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I acquired the car December 2009 as a Christmas present after the above .The car is as I describe and I consulted  my maintenance diary for the advert. I have the previous owner's MOT from Corbridge Newcastle in front of me as I type this, dated Sept 23rd 2009 Time 13.51 as a PASS  so he must have done something to it before he sold it to me.  Presumably the wheel bearing work. He gave me the green certificate only, perhaps for that reason.

My wife arranged transfer of ownership without my knowledge on the 10/12 2009. To re-iterate the sodablasting made it clear the outriggers needed doing in July '10 under that MOT & I SORN'd in Jan 2011 however I probably did not MOT in October  '10 as it was winter garaged anyway & I cannot find a form. You may correct me. That slight corrosion was probably the outriggers hidden under the goo? I think whomsoever missed the extent.  Don't know.

It could read like I am being dishonest or misrepresenting, so perhaps I could be a little upset by that. But I won't be. I welcome all knowledge of the car to be made available ( I did not know you could do that and feel free to post any relevant other documentation/information you find ). To repeat I am an honest private seller looking for an honest buyer and am happy for anybody to have a look.

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I wouldn't fret about the advisory.

My local MoT place advise on all sorts. One of my previous car, a herald estate, had the advisory "generally poor condition" more than once (justifiably so!) plus they always note any previous welded repairs. I guess this if a bit of posterior covering. 

I know some places don't give many advisories at all, others lots. Slight corrosion may well be some bare steel that had surface rust. MoT men seem to like the idea of "wire brush it off and underseal" maybe as it then looks all good the following year.

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My grandchildren are learning to read. Girls spell out a word phonetically letter by letter. Boys look at the form of the word and search memory for something similar they've seen before. Which is why I thought it WAS landrover in the original text. 

As for wheel bearings I've given up, I tighten them up before the MOT, slacken off immediately after. The MOT man knows I do it! Where is the sense?

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12 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Many mot testers  seem unfamiliar with old design  Non cassette bearings that must have end float

The spec is clear at 0.002 to 0.008"   set them to the 0.008 and the rock at the rim is ..huge... but its within designed  spec.

 

The GT6 manual says 3 to 5 thou end float (dry assembled) on the front bearings. Quite where that is measured or how to measure it isn't included! This is fresh in my mind having fitted a new wheel bearing this weekend...

The one I removed I had to use a spanner to release the castellated nut. I'm guessing that was a bit tight, although there was some float due to the larger of the two bearings having worn. I've set the new one so that I can discern some movement between the edge of the brake disc and the back plate, but no clonking / knocking feel. Who knows if it's right (never done one or felt one before), but it's looser than the near side front and didn't seize or bind after a 70mph run along the Bedford bypass.

 Gully 

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Both manuals give the different specs I would hazard a guess they decided to reduce the max from 008 to 005" to reduce the efects excess float has on disc pad push back, this makes sense

One of those evolutions as time goes by  Ha !

What ever if we all stick to one flat backed off from a nip is fine ( logged for next twiddle event )

You can only measure the actual float with a dial indicator attached to something firm and measure the in out shift of the hub near its centre.....on the disc will show rock not end float unless you are very careful whe moving the hub 

Was going to say humping the hub but doug will take the P

 

Pete

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Both manuals give the different specs I would hazard a guess they decided to reduce the max from 008 to 005" to reduce the efects excess float has on disc pad push back, this makes sense

One of those evolutions as time goes by  Ha !

What ever if we all stick to one flat backed off from a nip is fine ( logged for next twiddle event )

You can only measure the actual float with a dial indicator attached to something firm and measure the in out shift of the hub near its centre.....on the disc will show rock not end float unless you are very careful whe moving the hub 

Was going to say humping the hub but doug will take the P

 

Pete

one flat backed off is good advice though if youve repacked with grease check after a decent run as you might need to adjust again - Got the T shirt 

Paul 

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yes new felts can mask the nip,  a short run soon settles them down and a quick recheck ,  many fit the felt cup inside out ...

its  nut  >--< [ | felt   not     >--< ] | 

and there is no earthly use in filling the hub cavity with grease , it traps heat and will expand and squidge out 

when its not needed , fully grease the race and cups and rollers but dont fill the blasted middle  ,

grease in the hub cavity will never get into the bearings  the castings and ridges + centrifugal force keep it where you dont need it 

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8 hours ago, Paul H said:

one flat backed off is good advice though if youve repacked with grease check after a decent run as you might need to adjust again - Got the T shirt 

Paul 

Yes, I found after the first (short) run after repacking it was quite loose! After tightening I did a 40 mile run including a dual carriageway section and fast flowing road, after which I put another 1/8th of a turn on the nut (and impaled my finger on the split pin!). Hopefully sorted now, but will check again after another 100 miles or so.

Gully

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quite surprised how long my front wheel bearing has held up (about 8.000 miles), after hearing about cheap ones lasting a few hundred miles!) as it was about a tenner from Canleys.

Used the old felt seals though still  had to adjust a couple of times in that mileage.

I guess they won't do 40.000 like they may have done, back in the day.

Dave

 

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