Dave pb Posted October 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 A bit more wrangling about and it eventually slipped in. Done all the bolts up today. BUT,,,,can't get the gearbox cover on - i.e. the bit that you then bolt the gearlever extension piece on, The reverse selector lever seems to be in the way of putting the cover on. I guess some things may have moved with all my levering about, but I don't notice anything at the time. Any ideas? Dave ==== Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 17, 2017 Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 You need to engage 1st gears, set the top cover into 1st and it should drop on easy Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted October 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 Hi Pete I put it in first before dismantling as per the WSM. I don't think its moved, but then I don't know what it should look like! How can I ensure the top cover is in 1st? Dave ==== Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 17, 2017 Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 Tap the rearmost gear sliding sleeve rearwards to engage 1st gear tap the coresponding fork in the top cover the same way May need a good screwdriver and light whack with a soft mallet to move them , Or slot the remote in place and use the gear stick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted October 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 Hi Pete. I ensured the fork was in 1st by putting the remote in and selecting 1st. It already was as it turned out. The problem seems to be that with the rear fork in the right place (and I'm assuming the front fork goes in the 1st/2nd synchro sleeve), then the reverse actuator arm is obstructing the rear fork. See pictures below. Can that reverse arm move much, it seems fully forward as far as I can tell, but needs to go forward out of the way a bit. Or, is that second gear ring from the right (I assume it is the 3/4 synchro ring) too far forward? But even if it is, the reverse arm will still foul the fork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 Did you take the gears out or the rear extension cover off? If reverse gear slides out of the rear of the box too far then the reverse arm can slide off the gear completely and so won't move as it should until re-engaged into the slot on the reverse gear assembly. Unfortunately this means taking the rear cover off again and sliding reverse back until the arm re-engages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Caswell Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 It looks to me that the 3/4th fork(Which is the front synchro hub) is in the 4th position it needs to be in between 3rd and 4th(neutral). From front to rear its top 4th then 3rd on the front hub then 2nd then 1st on the rear hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 Pictures are a four syncro box for a 2L Vitesse, the centre of the pin on the reverse lever in the gearbox is about 2.25 inch from the inside of the back of the box. The reverse idler is all the way back against the spacer. The lid goes back on with the selector and gearbox components as in pictures. If you want any more pictures etc. the box is on the bench in the garage. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted October 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 Thanks All. I didn't take the gears out, just put it in 1st then took off the gear lever extension, then the top cover. As far as I can see my gearbox looks exactly like the Vitesse one above. BUT the centre of the pin on the reverse actuator is only 2" from the inside of the back of the box, and it will not move forward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted October 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Now, this might be relevant. As I was lying awake last night thinking about it, it has always been stiff getting the gear stick into reverse, and sometimes into 1st. Perhaps there is something amiss in the gearbox. Are there any checks I can do? Right now the gear box is mounted in the car. I don't really want to take the whole thing out again as it was such a pain getting it back in. Cheers Dave === Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 The reverse lever should pivot easy and slide the idler up down the shaft, its a threaded pivot if the lever is , sort of thread bound this Can be rectified by undo the nut outside the case and rotate the pivot a bit. wont affect 1st. with the remote attached to the top cover can you select all gear positions and move the forks ok, ?? when you say hard to select 1st reverse is that a high effort ??? or some crunching going on (which would be clutch drag not gearbox related) Pete Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted October 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Hi Pete I managed to loosen up the reverse actuator by pressing the clutch and moving the prop shaft connection around whilst trying to move the actuator. It seems the reverse idler had been trapped by something. Now the actuator moves a bit backwards and forwards but only a centimetre or so. Should it be more? Regarding the effort to select reverse it can be a bit of a shove and what sounds like a final clunk or clang as it goes in. 1st gear not so much clanging but still a bit of a shove. I guess that it could have been the worn out clutch. Dave ==== Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Cant give any dimensions but the lever needs to travel the same as the ward on the selector shaft Bear in mind the reverse idler wont travel far if the mating gears teeth are not aligned and the teeth butt ,or there is any Load or wind up like the prop or clutch holding some engaged tensions pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted October 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 ok. just about all back together. Need to fill the gearbox with oil....... So to re-open many a debate. GL4, GL5, does it make any real difference? Also I guess its a hypoid 90. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 GL4 then you can use it everywhere its needed, these days it seems to be 80/90 EP. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 Just t thought......There is no debate if you use what Triumph specified I will get my coat Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted October 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 I managed to get some gl4 ep80/90 today, so that is what is going in! And some hex-headed filler/drain plugs. Those original square things are the stupidest idea I've ever seen. Was there a reason they were done like that? It might be going by Christmas. Dave === Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 Dave. Mass produced and very cheap probably. Personally, I have never had a problem with them - the clue is getting the correct size spanner etc. to fit properly; many do not and as such rounding off occurs. They only need to be nipped tight not torqued to infinity which some PO's seem to do !! Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 quite right, think we have all come across plugs tightened by a gorilla there can be complications with hex plugs the forged square ones are tapered , you nip them up they self seal most hex plugs are parallel threads and need a washer face to seal on ...something our gearboxes dont have pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted October 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 To infinity and beyond! I've had to resort to hammering things onto the square, and then hammering the whole thing round in the past to get them off. Anyway, nice new bits coming. On another matter. Very difficult getting a torque wrench onto the prop shaft nuts. Dave === Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 quiite right, think we have all come across plugs tightened by a gorilla there can be complications with hex plugs the forged square ones are tapered , you nip them up they self seal most hex plugs are parallel threads and need a washer face to seal on ...something our gearboxes dont have pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 most torque figures are for unskilled tooling, on hard face couplings etc. a std spanner and two shreaded wheat will give you an reasonably equal pull on all four nuts thats why spanners are differing lengths, an average hand on an average arm gives you what the nut requires, safety critical or high stress components benefit from achieving a design condition, so big ends and steering arms need some respect . prop shafts are not S C. something on a go slow and taking ages to load in no particular order ..... maybe virgin....isnt pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 I would suggest a magnetic drain plug for the gearbox, just check the clearence when fitted. Have welded large nuts, filed to fit over the square end first, to the standard tapered drain plugs on my Vitesse. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted October 25, 2017 Report Share Posted October 25, 2017 Pete, I am related to that gorilla! I've lost count of the sump bolts my brother has thread stripped over the years. He doesn't learn, the last was 18 months ago, he had to drill it out and re-tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 25, 2017 Report Share Posted October 25, 2017 monkeys and nuts keep taking the shreaded wheats someone thought screwfix was a dating agency for sex !!!!!!!!!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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