kyleclark55 Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Hi All, I am in a bit of predicament My 13/60 herald is playing up big time and i just don't know where to start. To make matters worse this is my only car and i don't have use of welders, Garages, even jacks etc. to fix it. Just a Medium sized blue tool box for simple jobs. Firstly whenever i go above 40MPH the car rumbles like crazy. This has been an ongoing issue. I have replaced the Diff and one of the rear UJ's the bearings seem ok. Bushes are a mismatch of rubber a Poly. And secondly my Clutch master cylinder is next to useless. Just about works but the problem i have is i don't have anyone to help bleed it after replacement. Can this job be done on my own? Finally is there anybody in the Edinburgh area that could give me a hand/teach me about Triumphs? Can pay in Beers or Beer money I can't really take it to a Garage either. I am a student who earns very very little. Look forward to your responses. Maybe i might finally get my herald driving smoothly again. Kyle p.s Another slight issue is that when ever i come off the Accelerator or engine brake there appears to be a very brief grinding coming from the engine not loud but is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Clutch Bleeding Hi For this you need to spend £3! Get this item off fleabay 182758343260 This along with a jar will allow you to bleed your clutch without anyone else Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Rumble sounds like propshaft to me (assume ok below 40, then suddenly kicks in?) Bleeding clutch one man job, access is a PITA but not difficult. I would offer to help, but couldn't be much further away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Quote Kyle, Euan Douglas lives near Edinburgh, He may be along later. You can look him up in the members area. He has a GT6. He's a good bloke, invited me up when I was at my mother's in Berwick upon Tweed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Another trick is fit a long tube on the bleed nipple and with a jar up high on the biulkhead youmcan see when theres no air then nip under and close the nipple make sure its at the top above the feed pipe Cheap on ebay are often sold as , upgrade , its not its a different size but close enough to work ok and thye are often less than£15 May need to change the push rod , just thinking of your ecomomics Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyleclark55 Posted September 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Thanks for the responses guys. I may get in touch with Euan and see if he's up for guiding me in the right direction. As for bleeding the clutch it was suggested to me that taking the gearbox tunnel off is the easiest way to get to the slave. (the only jack i have is a scissor only safe enough to change a wheel and i have no ramps) What are your thoughts on this? Thanks, Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 can you get wheels up on a curb to get some safe underneath access! You can bleed or remove the slave from under but its not Easy , have a look as taking the tunnel out is probably best access but thats often a bit of a faf , just to bleed it doesnt take long , Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Very difficult from below, really is tunnel out. Re 40mph rumbles, does is suddenlt suddenly strt at 40mph (or thereabouts) or com in gradually. And does it feel like the car is trying to shake itself apart? If so I would say propshaft. New UJ may be required. If a strap drive (thin strips of metal making a square at one end) they are notorious. I cured one in 5 minutes by removing the straps and bolting the 2 bits together solid. All vibration gone. (shouldn't work, but it does. Sometimes) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted September 29, 2017 Report Share Posted September 29, 2017 For brake/clutch bleeding I'm also on my own and have tried all sorts, from pressure systems like Gunson's Eezibleed (could never find an adapter cap that fitted properly) to vacuum ones (could never get a good-enough seal on the bleed nipple so you just end up sucking air past the nipple rather than fluid through it). The only I always come back to is also the cheapest, the Vizibleed ( http://r.ebay.com/xUayek ). That one's £3.48 with free shipping and, well they just work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 29, 2017 Report Share Posted September 29, 2017 Even cheaper is a long tube , have the jar up high as possible , air floats up, the tube keeps a head of fluid , And a hook on the bottle means you ďont kick it over when distracted You can plug the end and make a slit in the side this acts as a valve opens as fluid is pressured out And foot operation is down fully and quick , return back slowly , to give recuperation a chance , like count to 3 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 29, 2017 Report Share Posted September 29, 2017 I do the brakes the same way, the front, easy to find a place to nestle the bottle. The rear, bottle sit in the hatch, wedged in, in another container. Spillage would be a disaster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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