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Herald Fuel Tank Replacement


Bordfunker
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I'm getting close to that point where I can put the petrol tank back in my Herald, having had to replace both boot corners.

Now getting it out was a faff, so I thought I would try a trial run before completing the paintwork in the boot, and I could not get it to fit.

It kept hanging up on the fuel drain at the bottom rear of the tank.

Do I need to remove the blanking screw from the drain spout in order to get it to fit?

If that isn't the solution, is there a knack to get a tank back in without scratching the living daylights out of your paintwork?

Thanks

Karl

 

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1 hour ago, Bordfunker said:

I'm getting close to that point where I can put the petrol tank back in my Herald, having had to replace both boot corners.

Now getting it out was a faff, so I thought I would try a trial run before completing the paintwork in the boot, and I could not get it to fit.

It kept hanging up on the fuel drain at the bottom rear of the tank.

Do I need to remove the blanking screw from the drain spout in order to get it to fit?

If that isn't the solution, is there a knack to get a tank back in without scratching the living daylights out of your paintwork?

Thanks

Karl

 

 

1 hour ago, Bordfunker said:

I'm getting close to that point where I can put the petrol tank back in my Herald, having had to replace both boot corners.

Now getting it out was a faff, so I thought I would try a trial run before completing the paintwork in the boot, and I could not get it to fit.

It kept hanging up on the fuel drain at the bottom rear of the tank.

Do I need to remove the blanking screw from the drain spout in order to get it to fit?

If that isn't the solution, is there a knack to get a tank back in without scratching the living daylights out of your paintwork?

Thanks

Karl

 

I couldn't remove the fuel blanking screw. I managed to put the tank back but it was a difficult exercise . Manoeuvre the the spout so it's only just through the body by lifting the base of the tank . Note the rubber grommet for the filling pipe is only fitted when the tank is in place. 

The tank is then lifted away so the tank fuel drain can start its travel to its location. In my case I did scratch the floor but it wasn't too bad. You will need plenty of wiggling to complete the  excercise . At times it seemed impossible but after 30 mins or so the tank suddenly went in.

Hope this helps

Paul

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Thanks guys.

Sounds like I am not the only one to have struggled with this one.

I might try removing the drain plug, as that would give me another 5-6mm to play with, which is what looks to stopping the tank dropping in.

That is of course if I can remove the plug!

Karl

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Have you removed the boot stay bracket above, which is also the top tank mounting bracket? This gives you sufficient clearance for the tank to twist out.

Don't remove the drain screw unless you really have to and if you do, grip the drain tube so that the screw twists against the tube, not the entire assembly against the tank, where it will most likely shear off. I removed one a while ago using a well-gripped drain tube and an impact driver and it was hard going until it finally started to move.

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On another Vitesse tank I managed to remove the drain plug by applying heat from a butane gun - The tank had been cleaned out with no vapour remaining - After applying heat I sprayed on WD40 , then heated again - did this 4 or 5 times and the plug started to move 

Paul 

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Hello Paul.

What steps / process did you take to clean / clear that Vitesse fuel tank of its vapour ??

It was obviously a process that worked for you, BUT I doubt that such an action can really be condoned - it really is just too risky.

At the end of the day I accept it's a personal decision.

Regards.

Richard.

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Hello Paul.

I have used the POR15 tank sealer process on a couple of fuel tanks and have to say it's an excellent process fro sealing the units; I know recently one of the Forum members had a problem with the process but there appears to have been additional factors to aggravate that situation.

Presumably the finished appearance has a silver coating within the tank ??

Regards.

Richard. 

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Colin, I have removed the boot stay mounting bracket, but it seems that there is just a few mm too little in terms of wiggle room.

I might give it another go with the drain plug left in, and see if I can't get it to fit.

I've heard horror stories about the tank drain plug before.

Paul my tank should be clean as it's been empty of fuel, and stored outside with all the openings open since April, so ought to be fume free, but I don't feel like applying heat to my newly painted tank!

I'll let you know how I get on.

Karl

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Last time I degassed a tank I ran a pipe from a running petrol engined car into the tank.

The exhaust gas nicely neutralises the fumes.

I recently had the drain cut off my tank by a local radiator shop. Makes removal so much easier.

 

Adrian

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On 10/5/2017 at 8:18 AM, Pete Lewis said:

You see re fitting is the reverse of removal  often quoted in WSM

Ever tried a  broom handle inserted  thro the wing , into the spout to lever it down a bit ,,    

Pete

Don't start me on THIS thread.....

"Re-assembly is the same as assembly, in reverse"

"Ok I've put the car in reverse and it still won't fit"....

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys,

Pleased to find a recent thread re this subject, as we have just spent a happy morning removing our half full tank from our 13/60 to find the leak problem.....turns out to have been repaired before, and, although I haven't inspected it properly yet, it looks as though someone may have strained the drain tube joint.....I probably didn't improve matters by using a jack on the drain plug to get the last bit through the floor.....it really is a tight fit isn't it!

Ideally I think we need a new tank!  Any suggestions please........are there any new tanks being made anywhere?  Or is this a case of finding a good used one?   Does anyone have a spare they want to part with at all?  We're based on the south coast, but happy to travel a bit to collect one.

20171113_130407.jpg

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Used would probably be cheaper than buying new.

Try Quiller for a second hand tank, see link below.

http://www.quillertriumph.co.uk/Quiller/Parts/partsused/partsused.htm

As for getting the tank back in I found it was a case of levering some of the mounting brackets about a little bit, particularly the boot stay one, and then the tank went back in without a fight.

Karl

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Is that a standard size fuel tank or a Vitesse size tank - difficult to confirm via the photo ??

It may be worth going for the larger type if you are looking for a replacement.

Quiller ?? I am certain there are plenty of other suppliers to check out to secure your tank.

Regards.

Richard.

 

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There are refurbished models on eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TANK-FUEL-TANK-FUEL-PETROL-TANK-Triumph-Herald-Genuine-Part-59-67/132365835123?hash=item1ed19e5b73:g:VOUAAOSwHqRZvUSE

or second-hand items which will cost around another £100 to have refurbished by any of the main renewal companies such as Fuel Tank Renu. At least this one doesn't appear to have bene molested:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-13-60-Convertible-Fuel-Tank-with-sender-Cap-Vitesse/162741582044?hash=item25e42778dc:g:HE0AAOSwjyhaAZvz

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New tanks are made by TD FItchetts  they are only herald capacity and do not have the dreafull drain spout or the reserve lever cam

So smaller than vitesse , and simpler  less troublesome design

You could take you tank to a radiator repair specialist for them to repair

Pauls offer sound a plan

Pete

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Thank you very much everyone, only just had a chance to log on again, and great to find so many helpful suggestions. I assume it is a Herald tank I have at present, but don't know for sure.  Capacity isn't an issue for us as we only intend using the car relatively locally to home.  I'll look into all the options and try and decide what to do, and let you know how we get on.

Thanks again,

Samantha.

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If you look at the size of the tank, Vitesse and larger capacity tanks are obviously wider and overhang part of the spare wheel well so require a small leg on the bottom that bolts to the side of the well. The larger capacity tank has a much wider profile to the right of the large seam (the lower side in your photograph); Heralds are pretty much even on both sides of the seam and don't overlap the spare wheel well.

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Thanks Colin.......I can confirm it is standard Herald tank then based on your description.  I've been talking to a friend who suggested filling the tank with water to get rid of vapour, thus enabling a repair.  I have a neighbour who is a very good fabricator and motor mechanic (builds race cars, and many other interesting things), so I'll have a chat with him and see what he thinks...............will report in later

Samantha.

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