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Posted

Hi.

1970 (build?) Herald 13/60. I am trying to identify the Type of diff?. I think it should be a Type B?. The information is needed in order to obtain the correct Bushes.

I find Numbers on the castings e.g. V? or Y 2734. also B176. and a stamping on the Rear rim face 55.

Rimmer State that there is a change from GA8000? but I can find no identifier even remotely like this?

I am thinking that the 13/60 diff may be a Vittesse one albeit with different ratio?.

Any Idea`s

 

Pete

Posted

13/60 should be a std 4.11 : 1 ratio diff 

there was change to the planet thrust washers introduced on 1st 13/60 from commision no  for 1200.   ga237601 and gb57202

the diff  numbers were normally stamped in its base , you may have a non orig diff , hence unmarked

if you have trouble with ratio mark the tyre with a chalk,  put in top gear and push one revolution of tyre. with the other hand !! count the turns of the engine

crankshaft , blue tack a card pointer on it.

one turn of  wheel gives  you 4.1 turns of crank   other ratios can be fitted as a modification being 3.63  or 4.89 

Pete

Posted

Hi

Thanks, But its not the ratio that is at issue (yet!). In any case the Chassis is in the (home made) rotator for cleaning and repair. I am trying to get hands on the correct mounting bushes for my vehicle. and Rimmer stumped me by saying there are 2 types. From the look of the Drawing on their site I think I need the Early one (Larger?). But was looking to make sure I was not getting the wrong one. I could check the ratio by rotating the Nose and seeing how may turns the drive shafts make?.

 

Pete

Posted

yes there are two top front rubbers  132936  is 1200 pre 1963

always pays to double check with canley's  for upto and froms 

and later all others 133568

if yours is a 13/60 then its obviously the later

the only other options are to go polys.

if rimmers new you had a 13/60 they should not have confused you, there is only 133568

Posted

Hi

Thanks, I think I will also replace the Nose and Diff; side seals whilst it is on the bench. Rather that have it to do once re-installed from underneath!.

Pete

Posted

getting the side shaft seals replaced involves removing the bearing and housing, from the output shafts ,    this will either be easy or defy all efforts 

you may need a new bearing if you have to drift/press knock seven bells out of it to shift the bearing

or a slim hooked puller , rather than a vice and copper mallet 

Pete

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