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Vit /GT6/TR7 /Dolly clutch withdrawl lever 132080

Pete Lewis

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there 's been a lot of activity in rocking horse pooh Clutch withdrawl arms. 132080 used on the small chassis 6 cyl and Tr7 and some Dolly

here's a fairly simple way to rejuvenate the pins , there has been ask's about 3D printing some, ,not followed up on that as getting the retainer spring would be just as difficult

the retainer spring is only to stop the arm falling off on assy, it does little or  nothing when in its installed positon .

if the sperical post is split then you have to weld and refinish the spherical seating 

there are wear points the pins wear flats on, the release carrier wears dimples inthe grooves and the antirotaion pin can fail.

you can cut the old pins off and weld in a shortened clevis pin , you can reposition the anti rotation pin to wear the groove elsewhere

so have a dimple rather than a pin to stop the carrier spining

all these small points aid a rather poor throwout geometry

also if the release bearing is only 15mm thick ( the orig being 19mm thick ) this allows the lever balance to be off set and increase loads , and lower the pin contact to well below the centre line of the carrier and its sleeve  ,  this can seriously  pitch the release ,

the solution (well documented  known bodge) is to pop the spherical post out of the clutch housing and place a washer or two under its seating to raise the pivot line

not too many or the post becomes unstable , just enough to replace the missing 4mm at the throwout

hope this is of some use 



clutch release 001.JPG

clutch release 006.JPG

clutch release 007.JPG

clutch release 002.JPG

clutch release 005.JPG

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  • 1 month later...

Been looking at a clutch arm I have which has a crack in the post seat.

Have twisted the post arm pins, which I assume have a shoulder and are riveted in, to move the flat worn on them and intend to fix them with a spot of weld.

Intend to run an angle grinder through the crack in the dimple and repair it with weld and refit the clip with a nut and bolt then mushroom the bolt to stop the nut loosening.

Seems to me that the only bit that can not be repaired is the clip, does it have to be spring steel? or would a piece of mild or stainless work if backed with a piece of spring.





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As far as I beleive the spring  clip only holds the arm in place while the gearbox is off the car, when in place on the car the spring inside the slave keeps the arm up against the spherical post , so it does very little , you cant get the arm out through the hsg aperture 'on car '  

Never tried to weld the seat, bear in mind it is mildly hardened locally in that zone.


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