Gnbickley Posted November 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 Doug, When you say they get noisy what sort of noise do they make? Is it noticeable against the background noise of the engine? Cheers Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnbickley Posted November 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 Roger, That's very kind of you. If I have no luck with fixing mine then I shall take you up on your very kind offer. Cheers Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 22, 2017 Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 Like any bearing if you spin the rotor by hand it should be pretty silent, any growl is ready for replacing Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnbickley Posted November 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 Cheers Pete, I'm hoping to get some work done on the alternator later as all the spares have now arrived. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 Gary, certainly worth trying to repair before lashing out on a new one! My alternator is certainly audible amongst the general engine noise, but hasn't got worse in over a year. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 1 hour ago, Gnbickley said: Cheers Pete, I'm hoping to get some work done on the alternator later as all the spares have now arrived. Hello Gary You will have to remove the slip ring to change the bearing! If it not in good condition or you do not have access to a lathe replace it. I don,t know which kit you bought but they are cheap(as to quality????) Bearings I would use a good make(SKF etc) not unmarked Chinese ones . https://www.bearingsrus.co.uk/6202-c-2hrs-c3-fag http://www.jcrsupplies.co.uk/products/ALTERNATOR_REBUILD_PARTS/ALTERNATOR_REPAIR_KITS_AND_COMPONENTS/LUCAS_15_16_17_18_ACR_REPAIR_PARTS_KIT_LRA100_101_ETC.html But if you have any problems PM me your address and I will post my ACR15 to you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnbickley Posted November 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 So I'm trying to split the case to see the bearings but I'm a bit stumped. I've removed the the long bolts that hold the two halves together and loosened the two halves but I can't get them apart. I've managed to wiggle the slip ring up a bit and discovered that one of the wires has disconnected from its clip (photos below) could this detached wire be the problem? On turning the shaft by had the unit is making very little noise. In order to get the halves apart do I need to unsolder the wires from the slip ring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnbickley Posted November 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 On the type you have yes it needs gentle removal The detached wire is certain death Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad4classics Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 Hello Gary, I don't know if you've got this, but I've dug out and scanned the relevant section from the Lucas Workshop Manual in the hope that it will provide you with some pointers. There's a lot of technical stuff which you may find interesting, but the section further dismantling and bearing replacement on page 15 is probably useful to you. David - (TSSC Member - just in case Pete or Doug are reading) Lucas Workshop Instructions A5.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 Thats good , not mastered a new printer for scans And its good call but we're not the posse chasing renegades. Believe that if you dare Ha Doug, .....where's me horse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 17 acr alternators are not expensive, when they start causing trouble either get a new or exchange unit with a warranty, been there many times fixing alternators, not worth the hassle as most come back and bite a few months later and you have wasted your money on the bits you have bought Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnbickley Posted November 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 David, thanks for the scan that will be very useful I've managed to get all the bolts out now and the brushes are well worn. Plan is to unsolder the rectifier and slip ring tomorrow so I can inspect the bearings before starting to reassemble with all the new parts. Hugh, I'm sure I'll probably end up buying a new alternator in the not too distant future but at the moment I'm determined to work it out and fix it purely for my own satisfaction. No doubt it'll catastrophically fail at the worst possible moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Have faith....... keep the spare in the boot No its good to have a try and get an understanding of how things work , But they are not the best part for a reliable rework And from years of warranty experience with recon parts the world of reconditioned can be appaling So buy new after a scout round for parts, and early Land rover have the lowest mark up many parts are compatible The later A127 was a better lucas machine . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Oh ye of little faith! My alternator diode pack died. I got a kit, diode pack, regulator, brushes and changed them. Three years later the alternator is still fine, just a little noisy. The electics are easy, the bearings a bit more difficult. (Which is why I haven't done them yet. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 To be fair, the new (turkish? Chinese?)alternators, and even the recons, are much better than they were 10 years ago. I had a few that lasted a few hundred miles before dying. But they were about £20 exchange from the local motor factors. I gave up and bought new Denso alternators, they seem bombproof. He said, with fingers and everything else crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 My old daily was a Land Rover Discovery 3 - and it was a total waste of time going for anything other than Denso. Most died with hours seemingly - usually taking out the battery too.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnbickley Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Ok, So I finally got the entire thing apart and the bearings all look fine, they spin freely with no noise and so I decided to try and put it all back together. Unfortunately the detached wire that should have been attached to the slip ring was too short to re-attach (as shown in the pics) So I decided to solder an small piece of wire on that would make it the correct length. needless to say my soldering 'skills' are appalling! having never touched a soldering iron since technology classes at schools some 30 odd years ago so I'm not sure if this is going to work! However I'm determined to give it a try. Thank you all for the help and advice so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Come on Gary, you can do this! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Don't know what rating your iron is, but I would guess it needs a fair bit otherwise all the heat will be sinking into the main body before the wire is hot enough to solder. I'd probably use a 100W job to get in, get it hot and get out again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnbickley Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Doug, Thanks for the encouragement Angelfire, I've got an adjustable temp one so I had it at 350degrees the solder was melting sure enough but it wasn't sticking very well didn't want to turn it up to 450 as I was worried about damaging the diodes. soldering the wire onto the slip ring went ok at 350 just doesn't look very pretty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Flux to clean everything and probably find 450 for a second or so is better than 350 for several. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Gary, Iron to wire, wait, then solder to wire. But you probably know that. Solder reaches temperature much quicker than the wire, if the wire's not hot enough you've got a dry joint. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnbickley Posted November 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Gentlemen, Thank you all for your help and advice over the last couple of weeks. Despite my appalling Soldering it would seem that I have successfully fixed my Alternator. Having reassembled it and fitted it into the car I got the ignition warning light coming on for the first time in months! 14.5volts across the battery with the car at idle and with the heater on, mainbeam on and the indicator going I was still getting 14.2volts time will tell just how successful I've been. Next job is to replace my broken speedo cable and then to find out why the car isn't getting hot! Thanks again Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 if its not getting hot theres really only two culprits thermostat temperature gauge /sender//voltstabiliser well thats 4 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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