dougbgt6 Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 When you say "the car isn't getting hot" do you mean the temperature gauge isn't working, or the heater isn't working? (That makes 5.) And, well done with the alternator, the soldering is inside the cover and no one will ever see it, hopefully! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnbickley Posted November 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Pete, Doug, Having looked on the coolant forum I've checked the temp gauge and I'm sure it's working correctly. It goes up to about 1/4 of the way then stays there but it's getting the correct voltage as far as I can tell. the heater blows cold air out of the vents and the engine bay doesn't seem as hot as it used to be (I know it's not going to seeing as my fridge is currently warmer than my garage but even so it's running pretty cold.) I've just changed the Thermostat and sender unit but that's caused other issues which I've just posted about in the coolant part of the forum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 OK, Is the fuel gauge OK? The temperature and the fuel gauge both hang off the voltage stabiliser, if this has failed they will both be misreading. Are the thermostat and sender the correct parts, either one wrong and you're going to misread. You can test the thermostat in a pan on the cooker. But, the engine bay not getting hot?!! No, it's an engine, they don't not get hot! No heat coming out the heater is a different matter, blockage, faulty valve? . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnbickley Posted November 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Fuel gauge is fine and accurate, the car was getting hot and working fine until about a month ago. Engine does get hot just not as hot as it did. I've got the old thermostat out and fitted a new one but I'm going to test the old one as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 It may be a lucky car that just overcools. I know of a few cars where the owners struggle for the engine to get hot in the winter, and these are owners who know what they are doing. I have had that on a couple of cars over the years.Change all manner of things to no avail. Then I just used a triple layer of tinfoil to blank half the rad, problem solved! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted December 1, 2017 Report Share Posted December 1, 2017 22 hours ago, clive said: Then I just used a triple layer of tinfoil to blank half the rad, problem solved! I remember seeing lots of cars like that in 1970s winters - my Godfather even had a bespoke grill cover for his Austin 1100 which he could vary the blanking / open proportions via a series of flaps. Clearly it was an approach that worked - same principle can be seen on the trucks on the Dalton Highway (Ice Road Truckers). Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted December 1, 2017 Report Share Posted December 1, 2017 Yes I too remember cars with padded covers over part of the grill at the front of the car. From memory a part of it could be fixed open with press studs. Cheap skates tied a piece of cardboard to the grill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted December 1, 2017 Report Share Posted December 1, 2017 A lot of Land Rover defenders have blankets over the front - to be fair, they are probably really wading blankets, but are also used to blank off half the rad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 You have to be carefull when partial blanking rads you can make the fan cavitate the air flow and the whip on the bades fractures them off Ive seen metal truck fan blades that came through the floor , nasty. There are louvred blinds around that are temperature controlled , Better to just remove the fan in winter and I would say warm up is not dependants on the opening temperature , what ever the spec they are all fully closed until they reach a trigger temperature , so fit what you like the initial warm up remains the same , only the final output temp is controlled If the warm up time is excessive the stat is opening too early , the engine is very efficient, the bypass is too much Or its just too blasted cold Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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