Tricky Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Does anyone have experience of getting one of these made ? Better still, has anyone got one no longer in use and is willing to sell ? I wonder if any parts people sell them. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Richard. There is a simple diagram in the WSM's or in a Haynes publication; looks a very straight forward construction. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 The Club sell them , from memory under £40 . eBay had one last week for £25 Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 The Haynes manual has plans for a lifter on page 135, (Ch.8, Rear Axle) They suggest a solid 1" Hexagonal bar about three foot long and 1/4" steel strip for the brackets - far better and easier to get hold of is 1" square mild steel tube, with a couple of U-brackets made from strip steel welded on. Metal easy to get from ebay, or from local industrial estate scrap bin? Ask first! While you're there, ask if anyone can weld; it's worth a couple of drinks but no more. If you Google for "Triumph Herald spring lifting tool" there are a couple of pics to show you. Both from past eBay sales, long gone, I fear. OR, the club will sell you one. John PS If you don't have a Haynes - get one! But ask and I'll post a scan of that page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 John, I'm certain it's in the Haynes manual as I have been flicking through those pages very recently. Richard - there is one on EBay at the moment: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-Vittesse-Spitfire-GT6-Rear-Spring-Lifter/263336394160?hash=item3d50127db0:g:aUwAAOSwa0VaFBWv The seller has a number of Triumph related tools so perhaps a deal on postage; or he / she may be a club member - worth an enquiry I feel !! I think the seller is in Sandy, Bedfordshire. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Posted November 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Many thanks guys - what a good forum this is ! I’ll need to join the club properly and start using the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 22, 2017 Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 You only need one if you have a rotaflex set up You can simply jack or hand lift with a few shreaded wheat for breaky but on rotaflex you are heaving spring and flex coupling Tensions and its a very different game you wont do it without a fairly stout lifting bar , and even that may need a jack to apply the lift Unless you have rent a crowd to help out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 22, 2017 Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 As an aside, when I made mine years ago, i put the brackets over the top of the actual bar. I just seemed to make sense to me, if a weld fails it would still be held in place. Not sure where mine has gone.Now got CV shafts and they are rather easier to fit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 22, 2017 Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 Richard, Found it! Went back and revised my post. It's in the "Rear Axle" chapter, not "Suspension". Clive, if you are concerned that your weld will fail, turn up the heat! Penetration is all. Pete, yes, strictly for Rotaflex, but useful for the other style. And so easy to make. Hmmmmmmmmm, I've got some spare 1" square tube! Tricky, I could make you one: postage might be more than the Club that will have contracts, will charge. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 22, 2017 Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 John, you should make it a condition that Tricky joins the club, after his revelation on another thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Posted November 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 38 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: John, you should make it a condition that Tricky joins the club, after his revelation on another thread! Done.....!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 22, 2017 Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 amazing what the jungle drums awaken welcome to the club , we have one but scotlands a bit toooo far to get doug and I out as postman pat . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Posted November 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 42 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: amazing what the jungle drums awaken welcome to the club , we have one but scotlands a bit toooo far to get doug and I out as postman pat . Pete Sounds like a nice Spring Run to me..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 22, 2017 Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 2 hours ago, JohnD said: Clive, if you are concerned that your weld will fail, turn up the heat! Penetration is all. No concerns aboutwelds. But I like failsafe stuff. And I can see no advantage in the brackets being under the bar rather than on top. Except it will save 2" of steel. Maybe things were that tight? Scaffold pole makes a good bar, but space does get tight to lift the spring enough. and a longer than specced in the manual bar is nicer to use, as long as you have space around the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 IMHO, the spring will sit better on the flat surface of the bracket, rather than on the bar. The original plans suggest 1" hexagonal bar (and 1/4" strip for the brackets) both making me think that the designer trained on battleships,. The bracket will present about 3" to the spring, the bar 1/3". And if you are concnered that your welds will fail, you aren't welding properly. Turn up the heat! Penetration is all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 I think I have a spring lifter somewhere and also a hub puller. These won't be needed now so if I can find them both are for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 It`s an awful lot of years ago. 30plus, but I am sure I managed without, on a `66 Vittesse, seem to remember I used 2 or 3 bottle jacks.? In various places. Just reassembled my 13/60 but that is on a home made rotator, suspended in air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Here is one in stainless steel - Fareham, Hampshire. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-Herald-Gt6-rear-spring-lifter/142663543458?hash=item213768eaa2:g:KkIAAOSwcndZqFHf Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Tricky, Just to clear up is this for a rotorflex ?? Its just not needed for any other design Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 I've never needed one on my non-rotoflex Spitfire and the springs been in and out a number of times. Getting the spring and lowering block both in place and all the holes lined up through to the diff. is the hard part! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: Tricky, Just to clear up is this for a rotorflex ?? Its just not needed for any other design Pete 20 minutes ago, Mjit said: I've never needed one on my non-rotoflex Spitfire and the springs been in and out a number of times. Getting the spring and lowering block both in place and all the holes lined up through to the diff. is the hard part! Yes it is rotoflex - see earlier post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Mmmmmmm. In fairness to Pete, I have looked through this thread from start to finish a few times and the only reference I can see confirming Rotoflex is the one you posted previous to this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 not a problem but age eye colour dna always helps when the crystal ball goes a bit cloudy it would be good if when loading a post there was a box to complete with the base car spec its often a guessing game pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 1 hour ago, classiclife said: Mmmmmmm. In fairness to Pete, I have looked through this thread from start to finish a few times and the only reference I can see confirming Rotoflex is the one you posted previous to this. Yes sorry wasn’t meaning to have a dig.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 ,Na! Go on have a dig! The times I read a desperate plea for help on here and have thought "Yes, but what car is it?!!!!!" Pete's right, as usual There should be a compulsory "What ya got" box on the thread. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now