Water Pump Totally fine or Replace

[AidanT]

Morning All

I would like comments please on the attached video (hopefully)  Took off the water pump yesterday mainly to find out if its veins were coked in limescale from the PO and all my work in removing limescale some whil ago had managed to do its job.

As it turns out its as clean as a whistle!  however to me it does sound like a bag of nails! but having nothing to compare it with, I thought it best to ask here as no doubt you will know more.

anyway  - have a look and listen and let me know  -REFIT OR REPLACE

 

Thanks all

 

Aidan

BTW its a lot easier to load files now! just drag and drop Great!

Water pump.mp4

[dougbgt6]

Aidan,

Yes, I think that's past it's best. New are fairly cheap. 

Doug

 

 

 

[Pete Lewis]

yes   just replace it   , not worth mucking around with bearings and seal kits 

pete

[dave.vitesse]

I agree. They became a sealed for life, no greasing, product around 1970. Trouble is how long is the life of the pump in the first place.

Dave

[Guest]

Aidan.

Replacement is the only choice.

When you get to the stage of filling the cooling system, ensure you use distilled water rather than tap water; the former is far softer and will not contain the elements that accelerate corrosion within the system. A 33%-50% mixture of anti-freeze or other corrosion inhibitor will keep your system in top form.

Regards.

Richard.

[dave.vitesse]

I also use distilled water in both my Classic cars. Very important if you have an aluminium head. The car that is, TR7. Our water come from bore holes in chalk, lovely stuff.

Dave  

[AidanT]

So a new water pump then! Thought so

As for fluid I've been using 4life from the club. Not had any problems with this and judging by the inside of the pump housing and the residue in the radiator  everything is pretty clean inside

Cheers 

Aidan

 

[Guest]

All that seems spot-on to me, Aidan

Regards.

Richard.

[AidanT]

Sorry one quick question - GWP200 or GWP201?  Canleys list both for the MK1 GT6 - TBH I canst see any difference from the pictures. Anyone know? can advise please?

 

Thx

 

Aidan

[Pete Lewis]

well on rimmers they quote  all  gt6 as  201 as having 40mm offset to the pulley

and 200 as early herald spit 123 and tr250 

if thats a help

Pete

[AidanT]

 

thanks Pete  201 it is then

Aidan

[AidanT]

Guys,

do you know how these pumps come apart? I would like to take the old one to bits for a better understanding  - but don't have much clue as to how to start  WSM doesn't really help that much, do I need to use a puller? and if so which end do I start?

Thx

Aidan

 

[Clive]

Pretty sure they are pressed together. So you will need a press and some gizmos to press it apart.

http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,919507  has some diagrams of a spitfire pump, but essentially the same. These have the bolt-on pulley, most are pressed on. Just for fun.

[Guest]

Aidan.

Amongst my classic vehicle library I do have an article from another car club magazine that not only shows a dismantled pump but (I think) also its refurb.

I will have look this evening and see if I can locate it, should that be of interest to you ??

Regards.

Richard.

[AidanT]

Please Richard

 

Thanks

[JumpingFrog]

I found this series a little while ago whilst looking into rebuilding a pump:

1.  https://www.madbrits.org/Tech-h2opump1.htm
2. https://www.madbrits.org/Tech-h2opump2.htm
3. https://www.madbrits.org/Tech-h2opump3.htm

Definitely an interesting series of articles, but decided to just take my chances with repro water pumps instead...

[Guest]

Aidan.

JF's three part pump rebuild is far more comprehensive than my article I would say, so I cannot trump that.

JF - well done for posting that, very informative and interesting.

Regards.

Richard.

[AidanT]

Thanks JF

Wow  that's some kit that is needed!  Beyond my toolbox I'm afraid .

The replacement from David Manners has arrived at home anyway so a job for next weekend!

Aidan

 

 

[dave.vitesse]

Richard +1

[AidanT]

Crumbs what a difference between the new and old.  New one is quite tight at the moment (won't spin on it's own) but as smooth as ..silk  It will no dought make the car engine quieter still

 

Aidan

 

[Anglefire]

Glad I looked at the pump rebuild article - I remember reading about the hole in the pump and it should be at the bottom, but didn't check when I put mine in the other day - so something to check this evening! 

[Colin Lindsay]

10 hours ago, AidanT said:

Guys,

do you know how these pumps come apart? I would like to take the old one to bits for a better understanding  - but don't have much clue as to how to start  WSM doesn't really help that much, do I need to use a puller? and if so which end do I start?

Thx

Aidan

 

If your pump has a nut on the pulley you can dismantle them; if it hasn't, it's 'solid state' as they used to say. I rebuilt one a while ago, located the bearings and the rubber bellows, and dismantled the entire unit - you have to melt the solder on the impeller to remove it and when replacing it set the proper distance from the body with feelers before resoldering it. They're nice, the impeller is all brass in the old units, but it's a lot of work to refurbish one.

[Anglefire]

Well, there’s lucky. Hole is in the correct position on mine. ?

I’m all for repairing stuff when you can, but sometimes the cost to replace with new makes it not effective. Unless you already have the gear to do it or want to do it for other reasons. 

 

[Pete Lewis]

Having the hole at the bottom is its designed place but not overly important it only lets coolant out when the gland seal has failed

If its on top well it takes coolant a few more spoonfulls before it escapes

Pete

[JumpingFrog]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

If your pump has a nut on the pulley you can dismantle them; if it hasn't, it's 'solid state' as they used to say. I rebuilt one a while ago, located the bearings and the rubber bellows, and dismantled the entire unit - you have to melt the solder on the impeller to remove it and when replacing it set the proper distance from the body with feelers before resoldering it. They're nice, the impeller is all brass in the old units, but it's a lot of work to refurbish one.

Colin,

I'm now intrigued about rebuilding my old pump - I've bought a press recently and fancy giving it a go if I can get the parts. My old pump was a brass impeller one, nicely made as you say. I've noticed that Canley's sell the seal, but would you happen to still have information about the bearings etc.?