rlubikey Posted February 26, 2018 Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 Hi MikeK. Have you got overdrive and did you shorten the remote gear stick extension (I'm assuming a 3-rail gearbox)? Shortening the remote helps a lot with keeping a largely standard-look interior and saves you moving the handbrake and reversing the gear stick bend to get a sensible position! If you've done that and you *don't* have overdrive then it's simple to shorten your existing tunnel and chop down a standard carpet. But, as you're asking the question, I'm guessing you either didn't shorten the remote or you have OD (or both). I have OD + short remote and the tunnel was made by welding up "simple curve" sections of steel. The shape is similar to the original tunnel, but wider at the rear to go over/around the OD. Even so, the standard moulded carpet has enough "give" to go over this area and look quite good. Not quite original, but then I've *never* had anyone stop at a show etc. and say "Hold on; that's not right - what's going on?" if the bonnet was down (i.e. they couldn't see the engine)! Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted February 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 2 minutes ago, rlubikey said: Hi MikeK. Have you got overdrive and did you shorten the remote gear stick extension (I'm assuming a 3-rail gearbox)? Shortening the remote helps a lot with keeping a largely standard-look interior and saves you moving the handbrake and reversing the gear stick bend to get a sensible position! If you've done that and you *don't* have overdrive then it's simple to shorten your existing tunnel and chop down a standard carpet. But, as you're asking the question, I'm guessing you either didn't shorten the remote or you have OD (or both). I have OD + short remote and the tunnel was made by welding up "simple curve" sections of steel. The shape is similar to the original tunnel, but wider at the rear to go over/around the OD. Even so, the standard moulded carpet has enough "give" to go over this area and look quite good. Not quite original, but then I've *never* had anyone stop at a show etc. and say "Hold on; that's not right - what's going on?" if the bonnet was down (i.e. they couldn't see the engine)! Cheers, Richard Hi Richard - that's very useful thanks ! I do have an OD box. I have not fitted the 2.0 yet but was planning to have the gearstick 7" back with a shortened (and straight not cranked) stick, and to shorten the handbrake lever but leaving the handbrake mechanism in the same place. That would mean that the 'hump' on the tunnel would also be 7" back, hence my concerns on the moulded carpets. I thought they would need to be 7" longer at the front to avoid a carpet gap ? If you have some pictures of the tunnel inside, and maybe the bulkhead mod before the engine was fitted that would be really helpful. Thanks in advance, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted February 27, 2018 Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 Mike, I'll see what I can dig out. Will be Thursday evening before I get a chance to look. Cheers, Richard PS: My avatar is what you chop out of the firewall when you do this. I must have more/better pictures somewhere at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted February 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 Hi Richard - no rush whenever you can ... I see the avatar - small ! I really appreciate your help - Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted March 1, 2018 Report Share Posted March 1, 2018 So, here we go. This is what you chop out of the firewall to fit the engine back and low down, i.e. without the bonnet bulge. Sorry about the rust. It was all shiney and we'd just welded in the late brake stuff from my old blue Spit, when would you believe it, there was a quick shower! It all disappeared when the shell was acid-dipped. The clutch was moved over away from the engine, and a jog added to the pedal level to put the pedal back in the standard position. This just gives an extra inch or two to clear the PI plenum. So, I couldn't find any gearbox pictures of new red Spit, but here's the old blue one which was identical in this area. You can see the chopped gear-lever remote. ... And the gearbox cover. All simple curves, welded together and covered in heat resistant matting. And finally, when all the carpet's in, it looks pretty standard at a glance. There's no H-frame as I was fitting that double-din radio. You can see the handbrake is completely standard but the vinyl covering on the tunnel is somewhat higher than usual. The gearbox cover is also wider at the back, but the original carpet has enough to cover it. Let me know if you need any more information or photos, and I'll see what I've got. Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted March 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2018 8 hours ago, rlubikey said: So, here we go. This is what you chop out of the firewall to fit the engine back and low down, i.e. without the bonnet bulge. Sorry about the rust. It was all shiney and we'd just welded in the late brake stuff from my old blue Spit, when would you believe it, there was a quick shower! It all disappeared when the shell was acid-dipped. The clutch was moved over away from the engine, and a jog added to the pedal level to put the pedal back in the standard position. This just gives an extra inch or two to clear the PI plenum. So, I couldn't find any gearbox pictures of new red Spit, but here's the old blue one which was identical in this area. You can see the chopped gear-lever remote. ... And the gearbox cover. All simple curves, welded together and covered in heat resistant matting. And finally, when all the carpet's in, it looks pretty standard at a glance. There's no H-frame as I was fitting that double-din radio. You can see the handbrake is completely standard but the vinyl covering on the tunnel is somewhat higher than usual. The gearbox cover is also wider at the back, but the original carpet has enough to cover it. Let me know if you need any more information or photos, and I'll see what I've got. Cheers, Richard Richard that's fantastic. Priceless pictures and advice. I’ll post up pics if my progress! All the best. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted March 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2018 Richard. Thought you would like to see this. Cut made. Recognise the picture in the battery tray? :0) other picture was offering up the 6pot begore cutting. Rocker on, tested spit bonnet and it fitted! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Rollinson Posted August 24, 2018 Report Share Posted August 24, 2018 Mike, did you complete this project at all or is it still ongoing?, As I am contemplating doing the same thing, Regards Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted August 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2018 Hi Wayne...nearly there. The chassis and bulkhead mods are done and the whole car is resprayed, engine is almost rebuilt, should get that and the gearbox in in the next month or so... here are some piccies of the mods to bulkhead, chassis and the strip down before painting - plus a few of the engine + 6 carbs :0) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Rollinson Posted August 24, 2018 Report Share Posted August 24, 2018 Thanks for that, that is most helpful, which bike are the carbs off?, regards Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted August 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2018 Wayne - they are from a raptor 650 quad bike. Issue is most motorcycle carbs are steeply angled and will foul the bonnet (if you want to keep stock / no bulge bonnet as I do), we may have to alter the choke on these as they come in a pair on the raptor but only one is choked, we will see when she fires up - but floats on these mean they can be dead straight - we will have to mod the air filters slightly to fit as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Rollinson Posted August 25, 2018 Report Share Posted August 25, 2018 Can I ask if the 1500 chassis needs alteration like the MK3, anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKai Posted September 26, 2018 Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 Have you had any issues of interference between exhaust manifold and steering column? If not which manifold is that you have you used? Looks custom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 26, 2018 Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 On 8/25/2018 at 8:59 AM, wayne Rollinson said: Can I ask if the 1500 chassis needs alteration like the MK3, anyone? The only real difference between a mk3 and 1500 chassis in bonnet attachment stuff. And the 1500 has a little bit off the chassis top lip around the exhaust downpipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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