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GT6 loom


Kevin.payne.15
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Hi all. After much discussion and seeing the earlier threads I’m going to replace the loom whilst the dash is out. I’ve looked on the auto sparks site but they have two for a gt 6 and mine is the swapover year. How do I tell if I need a ballast resistor or resistance wire loom. I have converted the ignition to a 123 distributer if that makes any difference. 

Thanks kevin

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You only need the balast loom if you keep to a 1.5 ohm coil and also have the short yellow and white link from the stater solenoid

With the 123 I would get a 3 ohm coil and dump any ref to balast ignition feeds 

(The ballast is either a ceramic resistor near the coil or a murky pink white from ign switch to the coil +ve)

Pete

 

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You only need the balast loom if you keep to a 1.5 ohm coil and also have the short yellow and white link from the stater solenoid

With the 123 I would get a 3 ohm coil and dump any ref to balast ignition feeds 

(The ballast is either a ceramic resistor near the coil or a murky pink white from ign switch to the coil +ve)

Pete

 

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Thanks Pete. I think someone prior to me has already done this. Whilst I have two wires going to the positive feed of the coil, the second one goes directly to the distributer ( I suspect to power it) and I don’t have a pinky one

ill ask autosparks if they can delete this cable. What did the ballast wire/resistor do anyway?

 

kevin

76895128-455C-46C8-A57D-99D3CBFA0CE6.jpeg

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Its a cold starting aid, you have a dropper to reduce the coil voltage to 6to8 volts For normal ignition on running  this needs a coil

resistance of 1.5 ohms.when you cranck it up the solenoid feed the 6v coil with 12v and boosts the HT helps if cold battery is in a poor state

If you remove this and feed a 6v coil with 12v you cook elecfronics, or burn points as the ampereage isndoubled

A 12v all, the time  coil needs to be 3 ohms across the  ign terminals  

The lead coil to the dizzy earths the coil via the electronic switching and this triggers the coil to  discharge the HT 

Same as if you had points.

Pete

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Kevin,

the ballasted ignition system runs at 6 volts. But briefly at start up, the ballast resistor is bypassed and 12 volts is applied to the coil and you get a fatter spark which aids cold starting. There are different coils for 12 volt and 6 volt systems, neither will work well in the wrong system.

Doug

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Az your coil is made to supplement the 123 and only has  two wires on the  hopefully  +ve terminal and ( one is presummed ignition and a feed to the 123,)  the single should be on the -ve and is the earth  via the distibutor  internals

From that I hazard a guess its all 12v and any balast has been bypassed

Just a thought 

Pete

 

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So in summary I think what your saying is to check with the 123 guys just to make sure it’s a 12 v sports coil I have and then, assuming it is, order the loom without the ballast wire or if not possible then go for the resistance wire option but then disable it on installation

is this correct? 

And yes happy new year to all. 

Kevin

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On 27/12/2017 at 4:22 PM, dave.vitesse said:

Remove/bypass the ballast resistor and fit a 12 volt sports coil.

Dave

Thanks all.  I measured the coil and it’s 1.5 ohm. I contacted the 123 ignition people last night and they confirmed that 1.5 is absolutely fine so I’ll try and get a loom without the extra wire and or just remove it. 

Thanks

 

kevin

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I’m confused Dave. Below is my email chain with the guys at 123 - their response at the top .  Suggestions ? 

Hi Kevin
 
You do not need a résistance
A 123 can be used with a low résistance coil above 1 ohm 
A 1.5 ohm coil give a stronger spark
A 3.0 ohm coil is for contact breakers
 
 
Henry Hebels 
Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.
 
-------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------
Van: Kevin Payne <k.cpayne@blueyonder.co.uk
Datum: 30-12-17 17:41 (GMT+01:00) 
Aan: 123ignition-conversions <h.hebels@planet.nl
Onderwerp: Re: 123triumph 
 

Dear Henry

 
As you will see from the email chain you have converted my GT6 Distributer last year and its been Ok
 
 
Ive now decided to replace the wiring loom for and the guys that make the loom have asked me to confirm if i need a ballast wire or resistance wire solution.  Upon investigation it would appear that i don’t have either !
 
Ive asked the Triumph forum and they suggest that if i have a 3 ohm sports coil then i don’t need a resistor or a wire but if i have a 1.5 ohm coil then i do.  Does this make sense to you ??
 
Ive measured my coil and its 1.5 ohm i believe 
 
If this is the case would you recommend swapping to a 3 ohm coil and if so would you have one available please ?
 
Regards
 
 
Kevin Payne 
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thats good , its ok to use what you have then,  the only snag with lowering the Ohms is that if this increases the coil HT output  this can affect dizzy caps and rotors ..thats on lucas and delco units as yuur cap is all integral part of the 123 then  from what they say its able to cope ok  leave it all alone 

so no balast in the circuirt and sleep easy 

Pete

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To answer your original question you need the resistive wire loom. YOU say you have a 1.5ohm coil and this needs a circa 6v supply not 12v. If you constantly feed 12v then it will get very hot and fail prematurely The 6v supply is provided by having the resistive wire

 

Aidan

 

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Assuming you have the correct coil (such as one from 123 or a sports coil) I would say you needn't worry about a resistive wire loom. 

The only caveat I would add though, is that if you can switch the 123 back to points in the event of a electronic failure, then I would get the resistive loom, bridge out the resistor such a way that you can reinstate it quickly when if you need to swap back to points.

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Kevin,

OK I agree with everybody! :lol:  Your current coil will work, but as Pete and Dave point out higher current will be life shortening for 1.5 ohm coil and cap contacts.

The ballast system was introduced to aid cold starting in an era when batteries weren't as good/efficient as they are now. Many classic owners consider the system unnecessary these days and bypass the resistance and replace the coil with a standard 3 ohm or sport 12 volt. 

I have the bypass system and it works OK and I'm not going to touch it. But in your situation, having the 123 and the choice of looms, I would go for un-bypassed  and replace the coil with a 3 ohm.

Doug

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Guys. Thanks for the advice. I think the sensible compromise is to get the resistive wire loom version but just not fit it and leave as a just in case. There is little chance of going backwards from the 123 as this means a whole new distributer but it would be worthwhile protecting this option I suspect. 

Kevin

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