Jump to content

Vitesse Mk 2 Overdrive Relay


Paul H

Recommended Posts

Still in the planning stage for upgrading the fuse box on my Mk 2 Vitesse to a more modern set up .The overdrive relay - see pic takes up a lot of room - If I need the space can I change the relay to the modern cube style ?

Paul 

overdrive - relay.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul.

Further to John's reply, the relay does not need to be in that location - you can reposition it accordingly.

If you intend to do a fair bit of rewiring, I would suggest using thin wall wire - it is thinner and yet carries a higher amp load compared to the standard wire you normally see in classic vehicles. 

Looking at your fuse box it is a mix of modern, old style and other connectors.

IIRC via a previous thread, you are looking to change the fuse box set-up ?? If so, you may want to consider using only one type of spade connector if only for cosmetic reasons and originality - if so the classic spade connector with the separate clear plastic sleeve is the way to go. It makes for a neat finish and I believe that the wire connection is more secure with the overlapping lugs on the spade rather than the modern crimping style type - I would also say the same for bullet connectors.

Just my opinion.

Regards.

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, classiclife said:

Paul.

Further to John's reply, the solenoid does not need to be in that location - you can reposition it accordingly.

If you intend to do a fair bit of rewiring, I would suggest using thin wall wire - it is thinner and yet carries a higher amp load compared to the standard wire you normally see in classic vehicles. 

Looking at your fuse box it is a mix of modern, old style and other connectors.

IIRC via a previous thread, you are looking to change the fuse box set-up ?? If so, you may want to consider using only one type of spade connector if only for cosmetic reasons and originality - if so the classic spade connector with the separate clear plastic sleeve is the way to go. It makes for a neat finish and I believe that the wire connection is more secure with the overlapping lugs on the spade rather than the modern crimping style type - I would also say the same for bullet connectors.

Just my opinion.

Regards.

Richard.

Thanks Richard, especially the thin wall suggestion as had planned classic cable . First job before the big switch is to replace dynamo with an alternator .

Paul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul.

TBH, I would stick with the 6RA relay you have in the photo; albeit a new one.

You are not going to gain much space by going for a modern square relay; swings and roundabouts I guess.

Cannot be 100% certain but I think you will need a standard 5 terminal crossover (changeover) relay, which as mentioned earlier needs to be rated at 30A for the initial draw.

Regards.

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, classiclife said:

Paul.

TBH, I would stick with the 6RA relay you have in the photo; albeit a new one.

You are not going to gain much space by going for a modern square relay; swings and roundabouts I guess.

Cannot be 100% certain but I think you will need a standard 5 terminal crossover (changeover) relay, which as mentioned earlier needs to be rated at 30A for the initial draw.

Regards.

Richard.

I will relocate to gain some space. The relay is just 18 months old 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine was fitted on the inside of the baulkhead, no idea why, it had OD as a factory option from new in 64.

the D type OD solenoid takes an intitial current pull of 10amp which if the solenoid is working correctly will reduce to a continuous

0.5 amps when its engaged , so when you flick the switch theres a good current spike for a few seconds.

Pete

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

Mine was fitted on the inside of the baulkhead, no idea why, it had OD as a factory option from new in 64.

the D type OD solenoid takes an intitial current pull of 10amp which if the solenoid is working correctly will reduce to a continuous

0.5 amps when its engaged , so when you flick the switch theres a good current spike for a few seconds.

Pete

 

Hi Pete , thanks for that. I will try to keep the relay in the engine bay for accessibility . The audible clicking I can hear on flicking the column stick is that from the relay or solenoid or both ?

Paul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Paul H said:

The audible clicking I can hear on flicking the column stick is that from the relay or solenoid or both ?

Good question Paul, I'm inclined to think it is the relay located on the bulkhead as it is a lot closer to the ear in the driving position.

Regards.

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, classiclife said:

Good question Paul, I'm inclined to think it is the relay located on the bulkhead as it is a lot closer to the ear in the driving position.

Regards.

Richard.

Thanks for the info , another reason for keeping the relay as the audible click confirms the OD is working 

Regards

Paul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dtype od must have a relay to pretect the column/or gear lever switch, wiring and switchgear

D types does take 10 amp to get the initial solendoid pull in there is a button switch in the end of the solenoid 

Which cuts this to 0.5 amp when the sol gets to the end of its stroke

 

A  J type OD does not need a relay it only  used 0.5 amp there is no pull in coil to load the current required

That why you need a relay   those reassuring clicks are your safety net.

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...