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GT6Mk3 wjndscreen glass


euan douglas
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As I will probably have to replace the windscreen when the warmer weather comes I was wondering whether the glass you buy from the likes of Rimmers is generally a good fit?  I was considering the tinted one from them. 

Mine is a laminated one by Solaglas (spelling?) and starting to delaminate at the top and bottom on the passenger side  -  not yet an MOT failure but that could happen this time next year.

Also I suppose it is advisable to use new rubber as well?

Euan

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Euan,

Doing the windscreen yourself is a pig of a job! I would replace the rubber, the old one will almost certainly leak once you've got the glass in since it's ceased to be rubber and gone solid. You need a special tool to encourage the plastic sealing strip into position. This is the tricky bit and generally doesn't go well.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RX1963

The sealing strip should also be new as the old one will have faded to a dull a aluminium colour. 

Alternatively I would call Autoglass! I've just typed in my reg and they know what car it is and say they can do it.  Whether they have tinted, I don't know, give them a call. I know people who have bought the bits and negotiated with a fitter to do the job.  

Also look at your insurance. A windscreen delaminating is no longer fit for purpose same as a fractured one.

Doug

 

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Hi, can I piggy back on this thread please? I'm considering removing the windscreen (GT6 Mk3) as part of my restoration plan. As far as I can tell the screen is original and the rubber surround is baked and brittle. Rather than "pushing" the screen out is it practical to cut away the rubber and if I did would the screen be easier to remove? I intend, assuming I get it out in one piece, to get it polished and then reinstall for which I'm sure I'll use a professional. I'll be grateful for any advice.

thanks,

Paul

 

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Thanks Pete and Doug

I've got a classic car garage near me that has access to a windscreen man, who they say is very good, so would probably go that route.  However do you think the new screens from, say Rimmers (917669) are generally a good fit or do they tend to be a bit big or small thus making life even more difficult?  Not that I have much choice!

Euan

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Euan.

don't know the answer to your question, however I would get the windscreen man to source the glass, then it's his problem if it doesn't fit! 

Paul,

Getting the windscreen out isn't the problem, getting it back is! :lol: Also If the windscreen is original it probably isn't laminated. Having had a toughened one break I would replace it with a modern laminated.

Here is a handy guide.

http://triumphspitfire.com/Windshield.html

 

Doug

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Weasy to get them out if you remove the milar strip or the stainless trim if fitted

Sit on seat and with feet up un the screen a firm gentle push will pop the seal lip over the flange

But that was  good few years ago,  if I tried that now I would need fireman sam to get me out !!!

A stanley blade to cut the inner lip off makes easy removal but wrecks the seal in the process

Been involved with many screen problems over the years , and invented a dry seal method which beczme popular in the 80s

When we got involved with the first pre production Magnums in the country we had to remove a screen.....Ha !!! We had nothing big enough to get at it   

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Thanks for the advice guys. As I'll have to replace the seal I'll go for cutting it as much as possible. And, as I've no seats in the car, I'll have to think of a cunning plan to overcome that challenge. Never a dull moment with a Triumph!

Paul 

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You can aply the black gutter sealant , being cheap and original, easy to clean with white spirit to the seal before dropping in place

Best cord for pulling in is a 3mm woven, 

Add a short bit of bundy tube on the string to thread the cord round the rubber  overlap the ends and tape to screen to keep away from the sealer

Pete

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Pete, I don't know if the gutter stuff is non-setting, but if not I would recommend Arbomast Autograde or a similar "skins but doesn't set" sealant. Makes things so much easier next time you have to do this. Taking the old screen out was a cinch with your "socked feet on the screen" method. Useful elsewhere too - the chromed strip along the top of the screen just peeled off 20 years after I'd put it on.

Cheers, Richard

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all we used on the assy line  was bostick black sealer , same as gutter sealer  , doesnt go hard , can make a mess but easy clean 

with a cloth and white spirit, 

on the cabline there was (remember these) a Fatley Airer to gently keep the  stuff  warm

makes it more workable ,   

Pete

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  • 2 months later...

I have a leak in my 2500S  so I have looked at this and the Chasing Leaks in the A post threads.  My car had a very slight leak on the passenger's side onto the parcel shelf.  Then I had it repainted with the windscreen removed.  The leak got worse including on the drivers side.  I pointed this out and the body shop got the string screen specialist back in again.  They say they removed the screen, cleaned off the old sealant and re-fitted with new sealant.  The leak was worse dripping heavily now onto the drivers legs.  That says to me that it must be a screen related leak.  Before I go back to the body shop a second time, can any tips be given on how to avoid a repeat?  Or even is there any other source of a leak that might have been exacerbated by the screen removal, but is actually somewhere else?  I just now the body shop are going to say they have done all they can and the leak is coming from somewhere else.

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I wou, ld gun some gutter sealant under the lip and into the glass groove, let it ooze out and clean it off with a plastic scraper,  quick wash wipe with some white spirit and you will have ensured the seal be it old or new is water tight

You just need enough to belt and braces the job

Blaster gun and cartridge  ut to a fine nozzle ,  cheap and all done in 30 mins

Do check areas like wiper spindles and A post gutter are sealed and mKe sure the heater plenum rain drain is clear of old leaves 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the replies.  The old rubber was put back in. 

When doing the gutter sealant trick, sorry to be obtuse, but am I squirting the sealant between the glass and the rubber?  Or between the rubber etc and the car body?  Should I by worried about the white spirit on the paintwork?  Also, not that I intend to do it anytime soon if the leak is stopped, will using gutter sealant make it any harder removing the windscreen in the future?

Last question: what is the heater plenum rain drain and where located?

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you need to squirt/pipe it in both locations, glass to rubber and rubber to aperture

it never really sets so screen removal is  still easy

this is what would have been used in the days of production  black bostic  , aka a bases  bitumen oily   sealant

keep it warm to flow easy.

the plenum , this is the  cavity  in the baulkhead panels below the grille  where the heater air intake enters the heater matrix

there is a drain hole in this baukhead to let out rain that goes down the intake grille  its normally got a crude rubber flap /valve to keep engine fumes out but lets water escape  if blocked it can fill with heavy rain and overflow into the car through the heater  air outlets .

 

Pete

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