Steering wheel

[SpitFire6]

Hi,

Is the pin missing to reset the indicators?

If you don't indicate then its not a problem for you.

Cheers,

Iain.

[Anglefire]

The boss comes with two pins 

[Clive]

The earlier boss definitely won't fit, the splined hole is rather smaller diameter.

You need to get a 7/16 spanner or socket, insert yourself under the dash in the pedal area, and slacken the clamp thingy. Items 122669 etc shown in this picture

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005793

Best not to interfere with the tension setting "bolt/locknut" 

Once you loosen the 2 bolts, you should be able to slide the column up. At least that is the plan.

[Pete Lewis]

Yes the outer tube and inner column are all adjustable for their lengths from the dash to the wheel

The setting for the slide clamp is in the wsm.  its not difficult to reset withnallen key and spanner 

Just follow the tightening sequence in the manual

Pete

 

[Anglefire]

Well. I’ve found a few more bodges. 

 

and I’ve moved the column as far as it will go and it’s not enough. 

any ideas? Or am i just not trying hard enough. ?

[Clive]

Did you do the clampright down in the footwell? down by the pedals?

That "bodge" looks a real faff. You should be able to find a proper clamp etc, but that is not the bit to allow the column to adjust.

[Anglefire]

This one?

in which case yes. 

The bodge stops the upper column from rocking     Its almost like it’s not far enough back into the block to make it tight. But it doesn’t want to go back any further (I’ve taken the screws out!)

[Clive]

That's the one!

The column may need a good wiggle to get it to move. A bit like me.

[Anglefire]

It has pulled out a good inch or inch 1/2 enough to get the boss on and the nut on properly. But the cowl won’t fit. So needs another 1/4 - 1/2” 

[Anglefire]

Looking at the two diagrams on the canley site, are the bars, numbered 154977 on this diagram on both the early and later cars as they aren't on the later diagram - but then I don't know how the upper clamp is then fixed?

 

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Mark

                  I have just measured my boss(no idea if its a moto lita one) but it is 45mm from steering wheel seat to cowl face

I hope that helps

Roger

[Colin Lindsay]

3 hours ago, Anglefire said:

It has pulled out a good inch or inch 1/2 enough to get the boss on and the nut on properly. But the cowl won’t fit. So needs another 1/4 - 1/2” 

I don't know if this has been suggested already but - have you considered trimming the cowl, so that the wheel boss fits inside it? That would be one of my first options, rather than lengthening the stering column. I'd be wary that, at its' fullest extension, any grip on the rotaty bits may be at their slimmest. 

Second hand cowls are easy enough to get, I'd look for a backup pair and widen the hole at the top for the steering boss to slip into. If it cuts anyway raggedly, a little bit of plastic edge trim around the hole would make it look professional.

[Anglefire]

It’s not been suggested yet Colin, but it might be the best option as there is no way I can get any more length - I have worked out now how it all works and the collar at the bottom is right against the outer sleeve at full extension. If I remove the clamp it does come out and I can get the cowl on- but then I can refit the clamp as it then doesn’t go in the slot.   Seems odd though given it’s a standard option if that makes sense- so I don’t know what is different on mine. 

The other issue I have is that I’m pretty sure the column will still go in and out despite everything being tight. 

And the final issue is that the steering column stalk bracket clamp bust as I was tightening it up. ? so got to find a new set of switches too. ?

[Anglefire]

This is the end of the column and turned a bit so I can see.

It does pull back but not enough to give the clearance needed at the front for the cowl. 

I didn’t measure my boss Roger - but if I were a betting man then 45mm would be about right. 

[Clive]

Just a thought here, and something I did with mine (having thought about it)

As we as pulling the inner column up as far as possible, plan B is to push the outer column down. And I trimmed a bit off the back of the shroud to get my wheel to fit (a very comfy Momo)

IIRC I just used the angry grinder to cut it. You get a bit of a build up of melted plastic on the edges f the cut, but it comes off easy enough. And is nicely hidden out of sight.

 

[Anglefire]

Thanks Clive, I’ve done both the push outer and pull inner - it’s going no where else. The end of the outer column has a cap on the end. I guess to form a crude bearing service if the column pulls out as such. 

I also now have a bit of rocking / twisting going on at the top of the column. I guess the reason the screws where fitted. I have tightened up the bolts on the top clamp but still looks to be a gap around the column. It’s like the clamp is not right - I was thinking of dropping the block and seeing if it needs a trim between meeting faces. 

As for the cowl. I think that is the best course of action. I’ll get the angry with it ? 

[Pete Lewis]

the fascia clamp should have 609693  a sort of crinkle spacer  to grip the oute tube 

but allows it to collapse on impact .  

on later cars with a steering lock then the inner and outer  have to have some control to align the lock plunger

pete

[Dick Twitchen]

I had a similar sort of 'rocking' on my column and as well as replacing the tired spacer (609639) placed a small strip of rubber matting between the lower clamp (619850) and the column.  This provided all the grip that was required.

Dick

[Anglefire]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

the fascia clamp should have 609693  a sort of crinkle spacer  to grip the oute tube 

but allows it to collapse on impact .  

on later cars with a steering lock then the inner and outer  have to have some control to align the lock plunger

pete

Yes it does seem to have a crinkled thing. 

Clamp been worn makes sense. I’ll see about replacing it or as Dick says a bit of something. 

31 minutes ago, Dick Twitchen said:

I had a similar sort of 'rocking' on my column and as well as replacing the tired spacer (609639) placed a small strip of rubber matting between the lower clamp (619850) and the column.  This provided all the grip that was required.

Dick

 

[Anglefire]

Well. Finally got mine fitted.  I think I’ve trimmed the cowl enough but the first drive when it’s drier will tell!

The indicator bust - and rhd aren’t available anymore but just by swapping the metal plate on the front for the old one it can be converted. 

The only snag is the horn is upside down. 

But I can live with that. 

The only other note of caution to make is that the cover also holds various springs and ball bearings. They fall out if you aren’t careful. Don’t ask how I know. 

[Anglefire]

Oh and the other thing I have to try and sort is that the headlights don’t flash. They go onto full beam ok. Just not flash. Odd. 

[Adrian Cooper]

Hi Mark, 

I think that the main beam flash has a separate live feed (purple?) from the fusebox. Could it be that this wire is disconnected?

Adrian 

[Anglefire]

Ah. Ok. I’ll check the wiring diagrams. Though I unplugged the one plug and plugged back in the other. To be fair the horn didn’t work till I wiggled the connector so could be it needs taking apart and some contact cleaner spraying about. 

[Anglefire]

Finally fitted the wheel tonight properly and fitted the two pins to operate the indicator cancel. 

And they are loose in the holes. ? 

So put a bit of tape around them for now but need something better because they will come out at some point I’m sure.  Don’t want to glue them really. 

[dougbgt6]

Mark,

Sorry you've had so much trouble with your wheel, I feel slightly responsible having originally pointed out the Rimmer's discount.

I assembled my wheel on the sofa and it took 15 minutes to put on the car.

I used to have an embarrassment with the horn which would sound if I pulled too hard on the wheel, it doesn't do that anymore, a lot of money to pay to fix the horn! 

Doug