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GT6 Rotoflex Shock Conversion help


Iain
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Hi there went to Stoneleigh on Sunday and bought myself a new set of adjustable rear Gas shocks with the brackets from the club stand and got club rated so was really pleased with my purchased got it home and opened it and found there was no instructions on how to put it together , does anybody know how it goes together are there any diagrams to show process something like the parts list diagrams. any help will be gratefully received.

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Hi , I’ve completed adding top brackets and gaz shocks to my Vitesse mk 2. I’ll check if I’ve still got the TSSC  instructions and hopefully post tomorrow. First thing are the spring hangers handed ie you have a left and a right 

im assuming you have lever arm shockers at the moment 

Paul 

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hi there everyone  I think so I bought the shocks with I think the hangers they are advertised on page 18 of the TSSC parts & access.club shop book and are called "rear bracket conversion kit" (as you can see I have no idea) I thought there would have been some sort of instructions. I was told that these helped the rotoflex handling.

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1 hour ago, Paul H said:

Hi , I’ve completed adding top brackets and gaz shocks to my Vitesse mk 2. I’ll check if I’ve still got the TSSC  instructions and hopefully post tomorrow. First thing are the spring hangers handed ie you have a left and a right 

im assuming you have lever arm shockers at the moment 

Paul 

It's a Mk3 GT6, so not a conversion from lever arm shocks, but to move the top telescopic shock mount from the inner wheel arch to a bracket off the chassis. Never been sure how the configuration change improves the handling on a GT6 as the Club Shop parts book claims, but the Gaz shocks are better than the unbranded replacements, so I guess that's how the statement is justified. Of course, if you have rust or metal fatigue around the wheel arch mount, they are a definite improvement!

The only issue I find with the shocks mounted in their original position is that as soon as there is the slightest wear in a bush you can hear it in the cabin! Although that could be argued as a good thing!

Gully 

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Hi there everyone 

I think I have ordinary shocks on the back of my MK3 GT6 and I think this bracket set up is surposed to improve handling, thanks for all your help I presume that Canley Classics should have a diagram of my rear end, I will check this out tomorrow and offer up the bracket and see cheers, hopefully see you all at the Triumph fest?

 

Iain

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2 minutes ago, Iain said:

Hi there everyone 

I think I have ordinary shocks on the back of my MK3 GT6 and I think this bracket set up is surposed to improve handling, thanks for all your help I presume that Canley Classics should have a diagram of my rear end, I will check this out tomorrow and offer up the bracket and see cheers, hopefully see you all at the Triumph fest?

 

Iain

The supplied bracket fits between the chassis and the body . The bolts which hold the body to the chassis need to be loosened to enable the top bracket to be knocked in . The bolt loosening depends on how rusty the bolts are . You will need to loosen the bolts either side of the diff , the outriggers and the bolts holding the side rail. Once loose the body needs to be jacked up to allow the top bracket to be inserted. 

Im out tomorrow morning though will copy and post the instructions later in the day. I will also put up a pic of the tool I made to assist the top bracket fitting.

Paul 

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5 hours ago, TomL said:

Hi,

Is this for conversion from lever-arms on a Rotoflex car?

Tom

 

5 hours ago, Iain said:

yes

 

5 hours ago, Iain said:

I think so

Gully, you are spot-on.

The reason I posted the diagram was to clear up any ambiguity, as earlier on it seemed there was a degree of uncertainty as to what was what; which still seems current.

 Just trying to eliminate any descriptive errors.

Regards.

Richard.

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I think it is a very tall claim to say the kit will improve handling. The exception, as mentioned above, is if the inner rear arches are corroded around the shock mounting, which is teh reason I fitted some 20 odd years ago to the GT6 I was using.

I hope the supplied shocks are the correct length, and not the same as spitfire one. The spitfire ones are too long and will bottom out, making handling rather unpredictable and uncomfortable. Worth checking before fitting.

And that is a word of caution. Be very careful of any claims about "upgrades" and improvements". Often the best things ti fit are GOOD QUALITY NOS parts. eg I would not touch a new Borg and Beck clutch with a barge pole. Nor ,any of the so called engine improvements, let alone suspension. At least without asking people who know these cars well (and are not going to be profiting from the advice). People here are very knowledgeable, and always happy to help. So always ask if unsure!

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The point is that with original lever dampers, or telescopics bolted between the upright and the outer end of the chassis cross member, the radius or angle of action changes for the worse as the suspension is compressed.   The radius gets shorter, so the lever is shorter and the damper gets apparently stiffer, while a telescopic's  angle gets greater, so it gets less stiff!   Imagine the telescopic lying at right angles to the axle, then parallel to it, 'cos that's the way it goes.     Either mean that the function of the damper is inhibited as you need it, more and more.

Mounting the telescopic inner end further out puts the damper at more like a right angle at rest and allows less anghle change in bump.

John

 

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Hi Iain, understand Angie is sending you fitting instructions - The instructions say the Top bracket slides in between the chassis and the rear body and there is a cutout in the top bracket which enables the top bracket to slide around the chassis bolt either side of the diff ( accessible from the boot ) . There is also a rubber mounting on this bolt which goes between the chassis and rear body - This acts as a cushion . Its important that the Top bracket goes UNDER the rubber gasket . If you fit above the rubber gasket the fitting holes wont line up . Because I had great difficulty in removing the chassis bolts the top bracket needed some persuasion to fit and I used a 12" steel rule with a cut out UNDER the rubber gasket . Then forced in the top bracket under the steel rule . This meant the rubber gasket was above the bracket and the securing bolts went in ok .rotoflex.thumb.jpg.bbda999e7370e8f5d6e21cfcf23fd1f1.jpg

Finally before you start ensure the Top Brackets are handed ie  there is a left and a right bracket - I was originally supplied with 2 the same and of course fitted the wrong one first . The brackets are a nightmare to remove if persuasion was used to insert . The stepped securing bolts only go in one way and thats inserting the bolts from the front of the car 

Hope this helps 

Paul 

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wow thanks everybody for all your input I will definitely phone you tomorrow for the instructions Angie thanks a lot .

this seems to be a tricky procedure and will take a lot of time to make sure I get it right.

I will of course let you all know how I get on , thanks again for all your help

regards

Iain

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