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Gearbox replacement


Waynebaby

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Hi All,

I'm psyching myself up to refit the gearbox to my GT6 tomorrow and I think I'm ready:

Dowels for the back of the block - check

Sticking plasters - check

Hernia support - check

Supply of extra strong tea bags - check

The only doubt I have is about what to do with the prop-shaft. Presently it is off the car and I was intending to fit this after the gearbox is in (I figure it'll give me more clearance at the back of the box) Can anybody think of a reason why this sequence will cause me problems? I'd hate to heave the box back on, only to find it needs to come off again to fit the prop-shaft. I can't think why this might be the case, but wiser minds than mine may know differently.

Wayne 

 

 

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Yes you can feed the prop in from the rear end .

Tip to aid alignment  , get a  it of timber about 25mm thick , use this in the gap between back plate and clutch hsg.

Just for a visual gap gauge to judge its || not |\   or \|   as eyeing it up is often deceiving,  get it square and on she pops

I take it a few inches of tunnel have been removed to gain access to the prop coupling??

Pete

 

 

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Hello Wayne.

Tomorrow, you and I both - my advantage is a couple of the local area meeting chaps are popping over to assist; how happy am I !!

One word of caution, other than take care, is do not under any circumstances let the transmission rest on the input shaft - if you do you will have a MAJOR problem by doing so.

Good luck.

Richard.

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Hi Wayne, just a little reminder about the washer behind the clutch Clevis pin, I didn’t do it and have to continually keep my foot lightly on the clutch pedal, wish someone had reminded me. It’s to do with the new thrust bearings being slightly smaller than original. 

Good luck with the fit tomorrow. 

Hag 

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Hi All,

Well the 'box is back in and so I thought I'd share a few learning points:

Firstly, it isn't too hard doing it on your own. In fact there's so little room in the GT6 that I think another body in there might make things more difficult.

The hardest bit is getting the bell housing under the heater box/air hoses. Once you get the 'box ~horizontal it will get easier (honest)

Put the 'box into first gear and then remove the extension cover and the top cover of the 'box. This'll give you more room under the dash for the initial "gearbox at 30 degree action" whilst you try to fit the bell housing under the heater box (put it into first gear or you can't lift the cover off)

Follow Uncle Pete's advice and use two threaded rods in the outermost holes in the block to hang the gearbox off (I found 4" lengths were ideal) This allows you to furtle with the 'box without fretting about what the weight of the 'box might be doing to your nice new clutch.  

Remove the hand-brake lever. This gives more room at the start of the process and allows you to sit on the tunnel and use your feet against the bell housing in the later stages.

Most importantly, enjoy the "shtumph" when the input shaft finally slides into place. With any luck you won't have to hear it again for a while.

Wayne

 

 

  • Haha 1
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