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Best Brakes - and source


Anglefire

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Following on from the thread about the 4 pot brakes, I have been considering mine.

I have replaced the complete brakes last year - master cylinder, lines, flex's and calipers and cylinders. Complete with new pads/shoes obviously.

And its in the pads/shoe department where I think and improvement can be made.

The material of choice seems to be Mintex 1155 (I think?)  - so where should I get some from and what should I expect to pay.

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12 hours ago, Anglefire said:

I have replaced the complete brakes last year - master cylinder, lines, flex's and calipers and cylinders. Complete with new pads/shoes obviously.

And its in the pads/shoe department where I think and improvement can be made.

What improvement do you need - are you getting fade, or just poor braking?

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No not getting fade - they just lack a bit. But they are improving with use - to be fair I’m not a heavy braker really so are bedding in more slowly than I’d perhaps like. 

Might just need a couple of good stops to sort them out. On the other hand a better compound might help. 

I’m also used to modern brakes - my bmw has massive disks and stops with little effort - I’m not expecting anything like that!

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17 hours ago, Anglefire said:

Following on from the thread about the 4 pot brakes, I have been considering mine.

I have replaced the complete brakes last year - master cylinder, lines, flex's and calipers and cylinders. Complete with new pads/shoes obviously.

And its in the pads/shoe department where I think and improvement can be made.

The material of choice seems to be Mintex 1155 (I think?)  - so where should I get some from and what should I expect to pay.

Hello Mark

                   I had a search on fleabay and found some NOS with the stuff in they can not put in now!

I have a set of EBC DP2114 the green stuff that the club sold if you want them?

As I have a spare set of mintex MGB 533,s I picked up cheap!

Roger  

Ps I have just found another set! Unipart S 350 AO on the box and M108GHI NTX51C & M108GHI NTX51B on the pads 2 of each

Plus the Asbestos label in the box and they have the Girling symbol  on them!

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2 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Mark

                   I had a search on fleabay and found some NOS with the stuff in they can not put in now!

Plus the Asbestos label in the box and they have the Girling symbol  on them!

No no no no and no! You'll be polluting pedestrians as you drive past. We can't have that! Better to use Pete's Aldi teabags.

I remember a few years back that C&E (The Customs people, not C of E) seized a batch of counterfeit brake pads made from compressed grass. Unfortunately no doubt someone has since looked at them, decided they're a: organic, b: biodegradable and c: non toxic so no doubt they'll be the norm in a few years. Who cares if they don't actually stop the car? We'll all just have to drive more slowly... 

BTW remember, Mark, if you go for some of the more 'exotic' pads they also take ages to bed in, unless you're a boy racer. 

Sadly, I've just checked the Net via a Bing search and found 24 entries on brake pads, 21 of which are for bicycles. Of the actual car sites, one was the RAC who mention 'organic' brake pads. Oh Lord they're here already! We're done for!

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5 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

No no no no and no! You'll be polluting pedestrians as you drive past. We can't have that! Better to use Pete's Aldi teabags.

I remember a few years back that C&E (The Customs people, not C of E) seized a batch of counterfeit brake pads made from compressed grass. Unfortunately no doubt someone has since looked at them, decided they're a: organic, b: biodegradable and c: non toxic so no doubt they'll be the norm in a few years. Who cares if they don't actually stop the car? We'll all just have to drive more slowly... 

BTW remember, Mark, if you go for some of the more 'exotic' pads they also take ages to bed in, unless you're a boy racer. 

Sadly, I've just checked the Net via a Bing search and found 24 entries on brake pads, 21 of which are for bicycles. Of the actual car sites, one was the RAC who mention 'organic' brake pads. Oh Lord they're here already! We're done for!

Hello Colin

                    Ha Ha so I scrap the diesel car do not light the log burner ban ALL plastic bottles Etc,etc

I feels like standing in the sea and having a P**s to warm it up!

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3 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Mark

                   I had a search on fleabay and found some NOS with the stuff in they can not put in now!

I have a set of EBC DP2114 the green stuff that the club sold if you want them?

As I have a spare set of mintex MGB 533,s I picked up cheap!

Roger  

Thanks Roger,

I’m ok for the pads - I might see how I’ve got go as I drive for a bit - they might improve some more - but if not I’ll go for the Mintex ones. I did see some yesterday for about £39 delivered. 

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Roger is that sample  in a bottle or out the bottle ?

 

I had added type  16s to the 1600  (was 12s)   gt6 discs  with a servo and 1144 pads , had to add a high level brake light as it would outbrake many moderns if used with a vengence  it could make some serious  impressive sharp stops  owing to plonkers thinking an old cars go slowly, , and without ripping the suspension of the chassis

if you get pad clatter get some anti squeal shims with the end loaded spring ,  and pads with the correct pin hole size  to suit your caliper era.

Pete

 

 

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Just use a sensible fast speed and haul it down  a 20mph you have to make them work and get fully heated  never bringbto a stop

Or the hot resin will get stuck on the disc   its no use tickilng the things it needs some hard braking without being abusively agressive

Pete

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Mark,

Now it's you confusing 1144s and 1155s! :lol:

It's only 90 to 30 for 1155s

1144s are 70 to 30, although I know what you mean, 40 in my car feels like 70! 

Doug

I was sat in a car park In Huddersfield having my lunch when I read that and missed completely the compounds ? 

don’t think I’ve been above 50 yet. Though I might have got to 60 ?

 

Just use a sensible fast speed and haul it down  a 20mph you have to make them work and get fully heated  never bringbto a stop

Or the hot resin will get stuck on the disc   its no use tickilng the things it needs some hard braking without being abusively agressive

Pete

Thanks Pete that makes logical sense! 

Aught to do that with the current pads! 

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Mark,

Well, I have mentioned this before, late GT6 mke3 (mine) has wider drums, shoes and bigger cylinders and the servo only works on the front. Earlier GT6s had servo as an extra and it worked on all 4 wheels. I've tried connecting my servo to all 4 wheels and it makes the braking..............odd, unbalanced. So I guess you got to be careful not to make the rear too good.

Doug

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